mperdue

Rubber mallet and vice worked great for me. Actually as I recall I also used a long piece of threaded rod and some washers and nuts to spread the control arms just enough to get them to fit. All of that and the finish wasn't damaged. Good luck. Michael

Thanks for the advice on the garage plan guys. I found the picture on the internet so it's just a first cut. All of these suggestions are jsut what I need. Regarding the ceiling height, I guess that could be changed fairly easily but I dont' know by how much. One option would be to increase both ceilings but on the upper floor have the roof cut into the ceiling toward the walls. But that would modify the roof and upper ceiling quite a bit I guess. Now that I think about it that really is a very low ceiling. I actually didn't notice that on the drawing. Also putting the stairs outside is a good idea to help with the floor space on both floors. Soemthign to think about. I really doubt I'll have money to do things like a pit or lift, but i can always dream michael

Those are the same pics I linked to but with thumbnails. Better for slow connection.

Here's a garage design I'm considering for my house. I added 6' length to give more space on the ground floor for lawn equipment. The upper floor would be for storage and workshop. What do you guys think? Is that enough space on the ground floor or should I go even longer? Is 24' and absolute minimum for 2 cars side-by-side? I'd like to keep it as narrow as possible to keep the yard wide, but I can add length without too much trouble. I guess it just raises the cost somewhat. At this point I'm trying to decide on a design and put together a budget/estimate. When I can start on it depends on how much it'll cost. I'll probably do a lot of the work myself. Oh the shed shown on the black drawing is what my Z is in right now. With the engine stand, couple of shelves, lawnmower and other yard crap there not any space left to move (which is why I can't relaly work on it). Michael

Yeah you also found it 5 months ago when you posted the same thing. Is it your site? I woudl have taken a look but I got tired of waiting for all of the graphics to load.

I'll take a look at 'em next time I'm out there - maybe this weekend. Don't get home in time to enjoy the daylight on weekdays... By the way Ken, now that I have your attention - your rolling rotisserie is now being used by a ZCOT member here in dallas. I loaned it out to him for as long as he needs it and he loves it. I thought I'd pass on his appreciation for your handiwork.

Beandip, could you give a little more info on the interior changes from '72-'73 that you know of? I know the dash changed and a few minor dash/control panel features but do you know if it went beyond that? The reason I ask is I pulled a butterscotch interior from a '73 that will eventually go in my '72 - I'm wondering if there are any differences that won't match up. Thanks - Oh and zthing - welcome to the site. Don't avoid the flame wars completely because sometimes interesting stuff is ejected from the explosions. Michael

I just saw these rims on an SSS bluebird on eBay. The description says they're chromed ZX rims. Anyone know or can tell if the rounded edges came just from the chroming or if these may have been heavily ground to smooth out the edges? I really like the rounded look, and the spokes look thinner. I've also attached a pic of my wheels for comparison. Thansk for the help MIchael

Also as far as I can tell the rear dog-leg panel seams are gone, which might indicate that rust problems required that they be replaced. It's easier to smooth out (shave?) that seam than to make it look like the original spot welded seam. I had both of those replaced on my car and I"ll probably have to hide that seam also. Michael

All that shaving and it still has the original door handles. Weird.

Will do Schevets, though I don't have a lot of Z stuff yet. The demand for it is high for obvious reasons so it's expensive. So far this is the only scan I've made of a Z - from the '75 French Canadian full line brochure (no I don't speak French - it was cheap and came in a set of 5 brochures). I'm surprised there was only 1 page for the Z in that brochure. They must have had a large supplemental brochure just for the Z.

I've got a couple of old brochures and I can't find copyright marks or notes anywhere on any of them. So of I'm wondering what you guys think about copying or scanning and posting copies on the internet for information purposes. Any reason to think anyone (Nissan) wouldn't want these materials distributed? I'm not going to sell or reproduce them to sell, just for display. And it's all informative brochures like I said - not service information or manuals. Thanks for any advice - Michael

I heard it's great except that you can't damage the cars. XBOX is coming out with a similar that lets you crash. But what do I know. The only racing games I ever play are Mario Kart MIchael

Well, you could try removing it and see what breaks or falls off. That would answer your question! Just joking - maybe some here can help. I can't really tell where that pic was taken, but someone else will know. michael ps I can't believe there's no "wink" smiley!

A friend of mine has that kind of setup with the enormous movie screen sized HD projector. I don't go there often but when I do I hardly move from the couch. The only downside is that you really have to dedicate an entire room for it and it's best kept dark, like a movie theatre.

Just saw this one ebay ad. He's got the later side vents, no hatch vents but early black wheel covers. Were the early wheel covers available on later body style 240z's? I though the wheel covers changed before the hatch vents changed.

Alfa - Americans are hardcore when it comes to TV. Cheap bastards like me who get by with rabbit ears are quickly becoming the minority. I only get 3 channels that are really clear most of the time. Oh well, keeps me off the couch. Oh and Dans240Z - FULL HOUSE?!?!??! You should quickly make use of the edit feature on this site!

Is Isky short for Iskendarian? I did find the Isky website when I searched for Iskendarian, and they do offer cam grinds for my application and for L-series applications. It looks like they grind your cam, not produce new cams themselves as far as I can tell. Only $99 for my cam, ~$150 for L6. michael

Hi Stephen and Alan, I didn't mean for the conversation to head OT into the A engine domain but I do appreciate the info. There is an A-series "race cam #1" on the Nismo website, but it looked a little extreme for my application (.487/300degrees), and it also requires that you change the lifters which I'm tryign to avoid. As I understand it the "GX" cam will only work on A12 engines from the 1200. The later A12's, A14's and A15's had the distributor in a different location so numbers of gears on the cam changed. BUt I'm still looking into that as the info out there isn't clear. Having a part number for the GX cam will help - thanks Stephen. Alan, I would really appreciate any more info you can find on Japanese cams for the A14. We should probably take it off-line though. And if anyone does have info on US grinders I'm still interested in that info too as that may be the option I end up with. Michael

Can anyone here recommend a good place to take my cam for a mild street performance grind? I've found several places on the web but I'd like a personal recommendation if possible. This isn't for my Z - it's for my other Datsun. No one makes an aftermarket cam for the A-series so a grind is the only option. I figured some of you could recommend a good shop. Thanks - Michael

Nice analogy Will.

Spraying would make it much easier but I don't have the right equipment to get the water out of the air lines. Another major problem with POR - it's so damn sensitive to moisture. I had 2 inline water filters and I still always had some moisture in the air. You must have a shiat load of heaters or dryers.

Actually if I could do it all again I would probably just have it all powder coated. I had a tough time with the POR-15 - especially the top coat. I didn't follow the rules exactly right so I think it'll all peel off at some point. The POR-15 is adhered properly but possibly not the chassis black. POR is such a pain in the arse to work with. It's good for large areas but with lots of little parts it gets very difficult to time the coats just right for proper adhesion or do all of the sanding you have to do. They need to make it easier to use ie paint right over dried coats with no prep needed. Even though it looks nice in the pics I'm not really happy with my suspension when I take a closer look. Wasted a lot of time with it frankly. I guess you have to learn somehow! Michael

Hls30.com Note that some parts of the steering rack are aluminum. POR doesn't really like to stick to aluminum, at least that's what I found when I did my rack. I left it painted anyway but it'll probably peel fairly quickly if it gets worn. I'd recommend using POR on the steel but either leave the aluminum bare or clear-coat it with spray paint. Here's a (bad) pic of my assembly, also with poly and new boots. Damn I miss workign on my z...