Virto

Plugged fuel filter or pickup I imagine. Might be some rust in the tank or lines thats plugging you up after a few minutes of vacuum. Could be a bad fuel pump or broken wiring too, but if the car runs for a while, then stops, I have a feeling it's picking up sediment and blocking the fuel pickup.

Last one is a 1970, and the seller also claims to have a "rust free" 260Z for 1500 bucks...I wonder just HOW rust free...

You'd have to be careful though, because you'd hate to capsize your ship if doesn't hit bottom.

People seem to be really good at thinning the herd of newer Zs, huh?

I use em whenever I pull into the garage. I pull in til I see the old washer and dryer in front of me move.... They may not look so nice, but I'd take them over no bumpers any day of the week, and I'm too cheap and lazy to swap them for the 240s decorative bumpers.

Wow. If only I had 17 to 22k like he's looking for. Seems pretty reasonable for a turn key GT-2.

The UK 260Z is a completely different animal than the US market car. It was not hampered by the same carbs as the US car, and did not require the larger crash bars mandated by the US. In the US, the 260Z is a bit of a rarity, but in the UK, the car was produced until roughly 1980, as the UK never saw the fuel injected 280Z that we got stateside. Instead, when the 280ZX was in production, the UK got it as the 280Z. In any case, frame rails, floorpans, hatch area, battery tray, all areas to examine for excessive rust before buying. Hope she's a good'n and you can live happily ever after.

I don't see why you couldn't make it, but make sure the battery has a full charge before trying. I know the fuel pump will run with only ~7 volts on the meter, but your lights won't work and the car won't crank. So if you're going one way with a new or good battery, no problem. Just make sure that new alternator works before you go too far.

Hard to say, but not likely. That car is a bit more rare than the average Z, and there's a whole muscle car world backing that one to high numbers. The Z following, while committed and dedicated, just isn't as big, and while more and more people are finding these cars and loving them, I have a feeling we'll be little more than a niche market. If it gets to the point that you can pick up a Jeg's catalog and order ANY part for your classic Z, and shops are starting to produce parts that are NLA, rather than just hunting for the occassional spare and charging a fortune, then maybe I'll change my thinking.

Some 1st gen Zs also had vinyl tops. Maybe that's what he's referring to. It wasn't very common, and really helped the rust take hold, but at least in my 78 owners manual, it has a section on caring for the vinyl top.

You'll have to drain everything, and probably have to boil or replace your gas tank and radiator, as they've both probably rusted way inside. Good chance you may have to replace all the brake lines, fuel filter, seals, gaskets and such. The carbs will undoubtedly need some cleanup and adjustment...Z Therepy can help you with that, either buy the do it yourself video or have them reconditioned. Also, take a peek under the car or under the carpet and see if the floor pans have rusted out. If they have rusted badly, the car might not be safe to sit in and you'll have to deal with that as well. You'll need a battery, new tires, and the lot with this one, but if she's in solid shape body and frame wise, it's another Z that's worth the time, effort and cash. Love to see some pics, and get an occassional update. I'm sure some others will post after me and offer more in-depth details. Welcome aboard.

Looks like it but I don't see fuel lines...do the FI cars have that same throttle linkage? Why am I asking instead of walking to the garage...:lick:

Like Gary said, a shop manual will be very helpful. You might also want to grab "How to Rebuild your Nissan/Datsun Engine." It's 20 bucks and has a great walkthru and lots of pictures.

Plenty. Plus this car doesn't have any VIN tags, so it's basically parts.

Well now we have to wonder if it either worked and he didn't tell us, or if there's some legs sticking out the front of a Z right now.

This thing AGAIN!? I'd bid 10 bucks, but I'd be afraid I'd win!

Jeebus! I just got my dash cover and engine rebuild book last week and it felt like christmas, even though I only spent 50 bucks! Sigh...the horror of buying "as much" house as you can afford.

$500 sounds reasonable. It's bound to need replacements of most major systems to run, and after 25 years, I can only imagine the frame rot...depending on where you are of course. Not a great end for a Z, but it's better that it might live on in parts than to just melt away in a backyard.

I don't really think it's a load of crap. It's pretty widely accepted that you shouldn't run a 10:1 compression, and the book "How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun Engine" covers it. From the few things I've read, 10:1 or over is a potential timebomb on L6 engines. Sure it can be done, but it depends on if you're looking for everyday reliability or track day performance, when you have a trailer handy to get it home should it blow.

Take a gander over at: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=7AD1 MSA has a few that look pretty nice. Certainly good to have options when you're looking for something like this.

Yhea, if you pulled the high tension wires, you might have them mixed up now. That would certainly cause a problem.

They look alright til you see the one with that big old bite out of it. Maybe he should shine them up, or at least dust them and post those pics instead. You'd think you'd want to show something at it's best to sell it.

Give this a read. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf