zack_280

I am looking changing my bushings and ball joints and replacing the springs and struts. Since I have the suspension taken apart I also would like to paint the parts. My goal is to do something that looks nice for the short term. I only need this to last 3-5yrs because I will be doing more extensive resto work in the future. So, I'm looking for a fairly easy way to apply the paint to the parts so that it hold and look decent for a fairly short period of time. I just finished taking everything apart and tomorrow I am going to start working on cleaning up the parts and stripping them down to the bare metal. I have the basics: a wire wheel, a few wire brushes, some degreaser, some anti-rust primer and some flat black paint. Looking at these parts I'm thinking that it may take more than these tools to completely strip them down as there are many years grime and light surface rust. Are there any other tools or chemical treatments I should or need to be using? The way I see it I am looking for advice on the following steps. 1. Stripping parts...What chemicals/tools work the best (or should I say the best for you)? This is the important one, I think 2. Prepping parts...Can I just spray primer onto the metal or is there more that I need to do (keep in mind that this is short term, and hopefully fairly easy and cheap) 3. Painting parts...Do the break calipers/hubs need a differnet type of paint than the suspension parts? Thanks in advance for the advice. P.S. I know there are a few topics that loosely cover this, but I couldn't find anything that would really help me.

I'll try to make it...If the car is running. I'm working on front and rear suspension now and then I need to take care of a low compression problem in one cylinder. I think I can, I think I can.

Rick, I'm 99% sure those wires to connect together. I just rewired my combo switch because the P/O paid some mechanic a ridiculous amount of money to jerry rig the wiring. Either way, there are two wires from each switch that connect together. So these are the most likely (and should be the only) candidates.

I bought a 240Z in Little Rock, AR last month. It has had some engine work done including a new Isky Stage III cam, E31 head with '81 ZXT block and flat pistons. (Note this is what I was told when I bought the car and I am assuming that what I was told is correct) The engine was built 4 years ago by Radatz racing in Atlanta. It has approximately 5,000 miles on it. It was running rich when I bought it (and it still is). I just did a compression test and came up with the following numbers: Cylinder Compression 1 25 (Plug looks like it has a film of oil on it when removed. I added some oil and that raised the compression to just under 30psi) 2 195 3 195 4 205 5 195 6 205 All of the other plugs will build up a film of carbon within ten minutes (the time it takes to warm up before the test). I am looking for any suggestions. I'm not really sure what I might have to do to fix it. Thanks in advance. Zack

The part number for the Tach Adapter should be 8910 and not 8610. PN 8610 is a 7" harmonic balancer for a magnetic crank trigger kit. This will save someone the 10 minutes of making a phone call (or searching the MSD website) that it cost me.

I got 'em working. I'm not sure why they work now, but the important thing is that they do. I ended up checking continuity of every wire. That looked ok, so I hooked a spare bulb up to my flasher unit and it flashed. So I reconnected everything and now they are working. I think it might have been the bare wires touching. Whoever worked on it before just soldered them and left them all jumbled together, so I got a male and female connector from Radio shack and connected them up properly. I believe it was one of two things...Either a bad/corroded connection or the bare wires touching. Now on to the suspension...by now I mean when I get the parts and $ together. Thanks to everyone for your input.

no, but I'm having the same problem. If you found the answer let me know.

Well, I am pretty sure that all of the wires that are connected are connected correctly. There is the problem of the green wire and it is solid green. Someone who either wasn't qualified or didn't care about the quality of their work has worked on the wiring on this car. Unfortuantely all of the wires on the Datsun side of the harness have been cut. The wires that were cut were not properly spliced back together and I am reaping the benefits. I can live without turn signals, but I would like to get them working again. If only I knew where to connect the white wire to the turn signal switch...

Yes, I do know that the turn signal flasher is not the same thing as the hazard flasher. I think I may know where the problem is. The white wire that runs from the turn signal flasher to the turn signal switch is not connected to anything. None of the wires on my turn signal switch are white, so I'm not really sure where it should be connected. I do have a solid green wire that is not mentioned, but there was a black wire connected to that and when I disconnect the black wire and connect the white wire there is no change that I can see in any of my electrical stuff (including the turn signals). All of my fuses are good. Also the turn signal flasher looks brand new. How can I test it to find out if it's working properly? On a side note the horn relay is now working. Now all I need is a horn.

Thanks, guys. I have checked continuity through the switch and everything seems fine. It seems that the problem is downstream of the switch. I'll have a little more time to look at it tomorrow (hopefully). I visually checked the fuses, but I will go ahead and check the continuity tomorrow.

Thanks, I haven't checked Zcar. The hazard lights work fine, just no turn signals. I will check that the wire from the turn signal switch to the hazard light is connected.

My turn signals are not working. I have tested the switch on the column with a multimeter and the contacts seem to be working correctly (but the Haynes manual has the switch development wrong, no surprise). Anyways, I'm still not getting a signal. In the manual it calls out a white wire that connects to the Turn Signal Flash Switch. There is no white wire on either of the turn signal switches I have (scavenged one from a part car), but there is a red and yellow wire that is not shown in the manual. I'm open to suggestions. If you think you can help, please tell me what might need to be replaced and if/how I might be able to test it with a multimeter. Thanks, Zack P.S. This is my first post. I just bought a 1970 240 from Mike in Arkansas. He had an ad posted that was up for all of one day. Car drove great even though I had no turn signals.