Mike B

I would guess that the 28 people that viewed it just didn't know what the answer to your question was. Not every post gets a response, if the right people don't see it. You might just try to post another reply to your original thread, so it will get bumped to the top again. I only have 240Zs and don't know much about 280Zs. -Mike

It looks like it is 80577-21000 in the parts catalog (through 11/72). What two numbers did you try? -Mike

It won't be cheap, but you may want to contact Modern Motorsports to see what they suggest. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php -Mike

Terry, You might also call and get a quote from a place called Dash Specialists in Medford OR. I have attached an article about them from an old issue of Zcar Magazine (1994). They were called Dash Specialties back then, but it looks to be the same place (same address and phone number). I did an internet search and found this link http://www.musclecarsonline.com/Dash/index.htm. They also advertise in Hemmings. It looks like there may be a 10% discount if you tell them you saw them on musclecarsonline. -Mike

This may be a dumb question, but do you need to do anything to prep a transmission or differential for storage (months to a year or more)? Both have been removed from operating cars and have had the oil drained. Should they be stored filled with new oil? I bought a can of Sta-bil fogging oil and was considering using that instead of filling them with oil. Has anyone used that before? I read on HybridZ that someone sprayed the interior of a differential with WD-40 and opened it later and it was completely rusted inside. -Mike

Actually there have been a few Z cars sold at BJ over the years. They just haven't brought much money. Here is a thread from last year http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29987. -Mike

Is that really true? None of the four 1969 production cars I have came with brass knobs (oil filler caps) on the carbs, and they all have the correct 1969 carbs (with no drain on the float bowls and the "mickey mouse ear" tops). Even HLS30-00032 doesn't have brass oil filler knobs and there aren't too many earlier than that. I don't recall any of Jim Frederick's cars with brass knobs either. -Mike

Kats, so the E4100 tail pipe is only chromed on the end of the tip and the rest of it is just painted black? The later tail pipes are all chrome. -Mike

Funny Kats, I was considering bidding on that one too and asking someone to pick it up and ship it to me. If I had known then about the differences we are discussing now I probably would have. -Mike

Chris, according to the old dealer parts price list/part number supersession listing books I have (10/82 and 1/90), part number 20010-E4100 was superseded by 20010-N3000. -Mike

Yes, that was what I meant. No need to try to remove the paint to check on your stamp. It would probably very difficult, to try to remove only the top layer of paint and not also remove the stamp anyway. No, I did not notice that. That leads me to believe my theory about modifying the tank was not correct, since the stamping is different. Thanks for pointing that out. Also notice that my tank has a patched area on the other side (see highlighted area in red). I also have a spare tank from another 11/69 car. I will take a look at it tomorrow to see if it is the same as the one from HLS30-00210 that I posted pictures of in this thread. -Mike

Interesting Kats. I didn't know that. Notice how the area around the pipe for the fuel line to front of the car looks to be patched and welded in place. Do you think they cut out the area on a 240Z tank (maybe Fairlady Z too) and converted it for use in the Z432? -Mike

My best guess is that Kats, Chris and Arne have the correct original downpipe for cars up to 8/71. It would appear that the examples I have are later OEM replacements. I would agree with Geezer that Jim's example is probably a later replacement too. It looks like the same illustration (of the early part) is used in all USA and Canada parts catalogs for cars through 7/73. The illustration is changed for the 260Z (from 8/73). Nissan seems to only change the illustration when there was a model change (i.e., 240Z to 260Z). -Mike

Hi Kats, Yes, it has an 11/69 door tag. -Mike

On HybridZ the seller said he had the reserve set at $16K and has twice that in the car http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146257. Edit: Actually I guess that was for the first listing when it was bid up to $15,200. Then he listed it with a BIN of $15,500 and it had no takers and bidding ended at $8,700. I would say his reserve is still much closer to the BIN price. -Mike

I don't. Jim referred to it as a Z, so I did too. Either way, I haven't seen one on a downpipe before. -Mike

That is an interesting Z on the down pipe Jim. I don't think I have seen that before. -Mike

I'm not sure Arne. The used exhaust I attached pictures of was from a 3/71 car. The pre-muffler and rear muffler are OEM and I assume the downpipe is too. I just checked #32 and #210 and both have the same style downpipe that I posted pictures of. The entire exhaust system on #32 looks to be original. At least the rear muffler on #210 has been changed to aftermarket. I don't have my 5/72 at the house right now, so I can't comment on what it has. -Mike

I'm finally getting some time to start prepping HLS30-00210 for a restart before too long. It was last run in the mid 90's. I'll be going through the "waking the sleeping beast" checklist over the next couple of weeks. I drained the fluids this weekend and today I took the gas tank out and cleaned the exterior of the tank with soap and water. Notice the yellow paint marking on one of the top tabs and the 10-30-69 date stamp (showa date 44.10.30). Since there is no evaporator tank on the early cars, there is also no connector for a hose to the tank. It is so clean on the inside, I'm not even sure if I need to boil it out. Should I just repaint it a gloss black or use POR 15 on the exterior? -Mike

Here are some measurements and pictures Arne. Using a straight line, it is about 18" to 19". The end goes under the joint for the middle section, so it is hard to know exactly where it ends. Using a tape measure to follow the curve, it is about 1" longer. The OD looks to be 1 5/8" for the entire length of the downpipe. It is difficult to measure (and even more difficult to photograph accurately, but I think it is about 4". Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. -Mike

Arne, I had an entire NOS exhaust system put on #237 last year. Here are some pics of the parts before installation. I have another complete used OEM exhaust that I saved from a parts car. I can take some pictures and measurements from that tomorrow if you want. -Mike

That one has also been in the classifieds here for awhile. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3649&cat=1

Its been posted in the classified ads here for a few days, and on HybridZ too. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3743 -Mike

I don't think you can do any better than working with Les at CDM. He is well known and highly regarded in the Datsun community. CDM was selected by Nissan as one of the restoration shops for the "Vintage Z" program in the mid 90's. He has the original BRE molds for their spooks and spoilers. I have one of their spooks and it is very high quality and an exact duplicate of the BRE original (I have one to compare it to). -Mike

I like the two half empty Coronas in the center console. -Mike