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Everything posted by CanTechZ

  1. Here are a few measurements from my '70. The area where the bumper mounting bracket mates, is vertical. Please note that the vertical steel section above the surface where the bracket mates, is parallel with an offset of about 2-3mm. The radius you wanted varies, I measured about 55mm in line with the back bracket hole and reduces to a radius of about 40mm at the leading edge. Hope this helps Mike
  2. Here is a pantone color I found that's very close to 918 orange. https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/717-C Here is a comparison to my car. my paint on the left and pantone on the right, also with a couple of other pantone colors below. Here is the picture that I cropped for my color. As it is original paint behind the tail light finisher there is no fade. I took the picture with no flash in natural light, overcast sky, not direct sun. I found the pantone color 717 C, after a few tries here: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder
  3. Very good step by step instructions in Tom Monroe's Book that I mentioned above
  4. Here is a scan of my sketch, if you print on 8.5" x 11" paper and select "actual size" it will print to scale. 1970 240Z HATCH EMBLEM HOLES.pdf
  5. Sorry, definitely not mine. I'm still in dis-assembly mode. Here is a picture photo shopped with @Wally's picture for comparison. It's the fuel inlet hose protector from the rear right wheel well after the under coating was removed.
  6. I'm pretty sure they are the same for series 1 and 2, here are measurements from my 1970. The datum for measurement is the lower right corner of hatch. The bottom edge of the hatch is curved so instead of the that edge I drew a line at right angle to the right edge for the vertical dimensions. I hope that makes sense.
  7. Congrats Jim. Very fitting dealership name "Trophy Datsun".
  8. Original fasteners are definitely M8 with a 12mm hex size. To get a 12mm wrench on, I had too do quite a bit of cleaning first, but it did go on. A 15/32" wrench would not work, as it is slightly under 12mm, 15/32 = 11.9mm. If I remember correctly, I also had to use a wrench with a thin cross to get in there on the diff side.
  9. Leaked photos in gray and pearl white, I like both. Here's the gray. https://japanesenostalgiccar.com/production-z35-nissan-400z-photos-leaked/ https://www.400zclub.com/forum/threads/production-400z-spotted-in-gray-and-silver-–-pics-videos.143/
  10. You're very welcome, if you make out here definitely message me and we can sample some local hazy IPA's as well. Cheers, Mike
  11. Here is a page from the parts book, I thought I might be able to decode the part number but as of 7/72 the part number is not an NES type, it does show that it will be M12x1.25. Funny the bolt up to 6/72 has an NES part number (08124-27510) that decodes as Hex Head Bolt, Medium Carbon, M12 x 75mm long, zinc plated.
  12. On the transmission mount cross member my 7/70 has M10x1.25 x 25mm long JIS type cap screw with 14mm hex size. Plus lock and flat washers. The actual transmission mount on mine has two M10x1.25 x 25 flanged head cap screw. The head has a larger head, 19mm hex and 28mm OD flange, the flange and head is clipped. Plus lock washer and M10x1.25 Nut, JIS type (14mm hex). These bolts seem a little short, see picture before I removed them.
  13. Dash from my 12/70 parts car (#16531) has the round center braces. Looks like most of the evolution happened in the first year.
  14. The Dash from my 7/70 (#6521) has some of the early and later features. Reinforced ends and stamped steel center braces.
  15. @Wally You should consider getting a copy of Tom Monroe's book, How To Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine, if you don't already have it. Lot's of detailed assembly instructions and pictures. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-Publisher/dp/B004X9A0OA
  16. If your old seal was rubber on the outside it still would have a metal case under the rubber. For aluminum housings it is standard practice to use rubber covered seals due to the fact that aluminum has a higher thermal expansion rate than steel. The rubber covering comes into play to help ensure that a press fit is not lost and also prevents fretting corrosion between the seal OD and aluminum housing seal bore.
  17. That makes sense, looks like the image in the '78 FSM is might be wrong. Is it 1978 that the change to the sloping floor in the rear deck was made? Maybe the "reversed" type bracket is to accommodate that. Just guessing, I have no experience with 280Z's.
  18. It looks to me that the bracket on your antenna is upside down, if you flip it it will look like the images from your '78 FSM. The Nissan parts book shows part number 27350-N3600 for up to 07/75 and they only had one mounting screw on both the antenna and the mounting bracket. Part number 27350-N4250 & 27350-N4232 start 08/75 and are not backwards compatible, so I would assume that is when the change to two screw mounting, like yours , started. Here is a picture of what mine looks like, it has a small single screw bracket that uses a wing nut to attaches to stud on the body. There a t
  19. I notice two plugs on the drivers side door panel where a grab handle would be. I know that earlier cars only have a grab handle on the passenger side and no holes or plugs on the drivers side. Is this another '73 240Z thing? In the walk around video the selling dealer claims "Interior100% original"
  20. Fastenal has oval head M4 x 20mm but they are plated. Could grind or past off the plating on the and paint black? https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11125427
  21. Thought I'd use the heater panel screw as an example to use the NES ten digit part number system to decode and compare to one of the screws from my 7/70 car. From the US Nissan parts book (1979) the part number is 08320-41842 and decodes as follows: 08320-41842 SCREW-MACHINE M4 08 = standardize hardware prefix 32 = Machine Screw, Flat head 04 = 4mm diameter (M4) 18 = 18mm length 4 = Phosphoric acid coated (Black) 2 = filler to complete ten digits When I look at my screw it has an oval head and was a bit longer, here's a picture, So I had a look i
  22. I don't have a list, but this might help for most of the fasteners. Nissan used a system that fully described the fasteners within there unique part numbers. If you don't have a copy of the the parts microfiche CD that is available for purchase in downloads, you can find the Nissan part number for the fasteners you are looking for here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 Here is a discussion about how to decode the fastener information from the part number, hopefully it might help you, My car is currently disassembled so I might be able to help with specific faste
  23. You could also use a planetary gear torque multiplier. Most can be used to tighten and loosen. Be sure not to exceed the rated input torque. Thirty years later I still remember the loud bang when I was helping to tighten a large taper hub fastener on a tire shredder to 2000 ft-lbs and we blew up the torque multiplier using a long handled breaker bar on the input.
  24. My car (7/70) uses 8 of the small rivets, the last two go in the circled area below, no threads. Here are my finishers before I removed them.
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