CanTechZ

I just happened upon this topic, did you ever get your question answered? Here is a picture of the faceplate from the radio for my 7/70, #6521. It has the "rounded font". I've owned the car for 47 years, so I'm quite sure it's original. I also have 1/70 fully restored Zed, #957. TO my surprise it's OE radio faceplate has the "blockish type font". I don't believe that it is the original radio to the car. Here's a pic. I had a look on BaT at a number of 70 and 71's, early and late with the early radio, and all had the rounded type font. I think that the block font ones are reproductions. Just a theory. Here is a snippet from 240zrubberparts.com. If you zoom in and squint It looks to me like a blockish font. Does anyone have one of these to check? https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/70-71-am-radio-faceplate-complete https://www.240zrubberparts.com/category/all-products?page=3

Just saw a '71(?) on CNN

There is a great installation video on the S30world website. They don't use any weather strip glue. He does show using super glue for the butt joint at the middle of the lower section.

Thanks Alan, just for fun I tried using the translate feature on google lens. It worked well.

Just to add to the discussion, here are a couple instrument panel pics from a 1970 JDM Fairlady Z brochure that I have. @HS30-H, Alan are you able to translate item 17. I'm guessing "optional fog light switch" 🙂

Here are the measurements of the O-ring groove from #957's 2400 valve cover. It uses a true metric O-ring, not SAE. Groove OD = 1.860" (47.24mm) Groove ID = 1.604" (40.74mm) Depth = 0.095" (2.41mm) O-ring ID = 1.551" (39.40mm) uninstalled O-ring C/S = 0.122" (3.10mm) Definitely metric as expected. The closest SAE size is a 3/32" O-ring that has a cross-section (C/S) of 0.103" (2.61mm). The O-ring in my car has a small stretch fit on the ID of the groove. I can't confirm that it is actually correct but it is a good fit. Here's a few pics: Here is some info on JIS true metric O-rings that I googled. I believe the correct size is G40 https://www.globaloring.com/jisb-2401-metric-orings-2/

Edit, Oops. Apologies l see now that you are looking for a fog lights switch. When I look at the info on Motosport Autos website it mentions that the plate covers an opening for a switch to control fog lights or parking lights in other markets. Where do you see that it is related to the rear window defrost switch? The defrost switch is ahead of the shifter on a '73.

I found these Skechers in Las Vegas on the weekend. The color looked very familiar so I just felt the need to buy them. What do you think of my new 918(ish) driving shoes. 🙂

I'm not sure if this ad should be here, or in the boobs thread, Lol. Looks quite nice. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1358419/1972-datsun-240z-for-sale-in-spokane-washington-99224

In a few months when I remove my aftermarket seals and install my new S30.World set, I will post the results and include videos showing the closing effort for before and after. Fingers crossed that there will be a big improvement.

I agree they look factory. I won't be installing them for a few months when the weather is warmer. In the mean time I'm storing them in a larger box, making sure the 90 degree butt joint is opened up.

Yes, I got them from S30.world in the Netherlands. Strangely, the day after I placed the order I got a tracking notification from PostNL stating that "my order from A2toys was heading my way". I googled "A2toys" and found this, they are a reseller of lego in the Netherlands. https://www.a2toys.nl/ It was the correct item and tracking info, I wonder if S30.world and A2toys are affiliated?

I just received my door seal kit from S30 World and it's even better than I was expecting. Great attention to detail. I will be using these to replace the aftermarket one piece seals that are on my early 1970, #957. Hopefully this will make it a little easier to close the doors. Here are a few pics for a visual comparison, of the new S30 product and the 55 year old seals removed from my July/70 car, #6521. S30 World seals on the left and my old stuff on the right.

First drive of '25. Happy New Year, all.

Went for my last drive of 2024. It was my first drive with these new stockish tires. Happy New Year!!

Thanks Richard. Just to clarify, the hubcaps in my pictures are are OE and unrestored. I just used them for comparison of color and finish with the tail light surrounds, that I did paint. I only wish I could restore hubcaps to that level.

Guilty here of using "series" as well, although I have been trying not to. I prefer 1971 early and 1971 late.

My Nissan parts book shows that the same seat belt assemblies were used until 12/71. Do your seat belts have a push button to release, or a lift latch similar to that used on aircraft. The early style is the lift latch type, which I believe your car should have. If I'm mistaken, hopefully others will chime in. The clip in your hand, in your last picture, is for the lower end of the shoulder belt where it would attach to the lap belt as in this picture from my 1970 with the early style. Here are a few pictures from my 7/70 showing how the upper end of the shoulder belt was fastened. It did swivel, but with some effort, not freely, when the bolt is tight. I hope they might help. Notice the step on two of the plastic washers, they are what allows the swivel to happen,

Actual originals will be tough to find. Check with @SpeedRoo, I believe he is working on reproductions. Depending on your build date/engine number yours would have had yellow or white markings. The change from yellow to white was in about 3/71 starting with engine number L24-031643. Here is a link to a topic I started on this subject,

You might find this useful for RHD,

I find it interesting that currently five of the six live Datsun auctions on Bring A Trailer are "no reserve". Bit of a change from years past.

I just got one from my local Nissan dealer parts department. Part number, A5208-43G0A-01. It was fully plastic wrapped, and quality looks good visually.

Also see posts 86 to 116 on this thread

Also, here is an image from an old Mitchell collision estimating guide from 1975. I uploaded the the 240Z/260Z section to our downloads area back in 2016.

Here is an image from the JDM parts book that might shed a little light on this. That joint is quite coplicated.