Arne

It's probably worth mentioning now that the new repro JDM lights sold by esprist and MSA include JDM tail light harnesses as well. These harnesses will allow the change without snipping wires, but the JDM harnesses will not connect to the USA-spec body harness, so so a bunch of jumper wires will be necessary. If anyone gets a set of these and needs help with getting them wired, post here or send me a PM and I'll walk you through it.

Ron, I don't think that there is a picture of the fiberglass valance on CDM's website, the picture they use looks factory steel parts to me. But I know they make it, so hopefully Steve will post a picture when he gets his.

Had that part been available when I bought my spook from Les, I'd probably have bought one just so I didn't have to drill holes in my original valance parts.

Yup. Totally different plate is needed.

You mean the stock valance parts? If so, and if I were in need for a non-concours car, I'd look into the fiberglass replacement valance (one-piece) from Classic Datsun.

I don't get up to PDX-area all that often, and I'm a bit farther away than ZT to boot. If the car were down here, I'd be happy to help.

Yup. I'm running the 195/70-14s on my 240Z.

I use the blue Nissan filters because they look right. Fram filters are butt-ugly. The Nissan filters don't cost any more, and are actually cheaper than many others.

All 280Zs came original with 195/70-14

Well, I think so, especially on a 280Z. That size is the same diameter as the original 13" rubber on cars like 510's and 1st gen Rabbits. Will throw off your speedo noticeably, and gear down the car too.

This is thread number three on this subject. I'll merge it in with the other two.

The factory downpipes (from manifold to the center muffler joint) for automatics were different than for same month manual transmission cars. I can't say for certain for 240Z exhausts, but for prior cars with this type of issue, aftermarket replacement suppliers typically only make whichever part will cover both choices. So an aftermarket downpipe (if you can find one) would quite possibly work. The MSA premium flanged system (with their own design downpipe) is routed differently, I suspect it would fit fine, albeit a much larger, non-stock-looking system.

I'd test them for leaks. With the engine idling, spray a little WD40 (or your favorite substitute) at the shaft pivot points, on both sides of both carbs. If the idle changes (either up or down) during this process, the shafts are leaking unmetered air and you will never get them adjusted correctly.

Too true. I can think of several here that I lust after. And some of them aren't even yellow...

I did not read thoroughly every post here, as I don't have time to get too tied up while here at work. But in a quick scan I did not see any reference to checking for vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts. If the shaft bushings are bad, trying to get it running right at idle can be nigh impossible.

I'd use the appropriate size thread die.

Sorry I missed this here. I answered in your other thread.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38539

I did this a couple of weeks ago. I built a custom pulley-puller so that I could leave the radiator in place. But pulling the radiator would have given a lot more room to work. Some additional thoughts: If you use a Nissan factory seal, it comes with the seal area pre-lubed with grease, so no additional lubrication is needed. If the seal you use is not pre-lubed, a little oil or light grease is a very good idea. Turn the engine to TDC before you pull the pulley off the crank nose. This will assist you in getting the keyway aligned with the woodruff key when you reassemble. I strongly recommend having a new woodruff key on hand before you start. If the current key does want to stay in place well, replace it. Nissan part number is 00926-51600, list price is less than $1. Be very careful to to get the key/keyway lined up properly, and that the key is firmly enough embedded that it won't move as you push the pulley over it. The pulley is cast iron, and therefore brittle. You don't want to do what I found the PO did to mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38293

I've seen them for about $240 per set.

I use the factory blue Nissan filters on mine, but only the original large capacity. (Nissan has a smaller one too, but the originals were large.) So if you go with the Wix/NAPA I'd use whichever is larger.

FWIW - I've never gotten any response from MSA regarding complaints or suggestions when using email, but much better when talking on the phone directly. Not sure who is in charge of reading email - maybe no one and that's the problem!

I agree with Stephen. Unless your car is a US car that was later imported to Europe (and from the picture, that does not appear to be the case), I'd stay with the carbs you have and reuild and tune them.

Yup, those were one of several different Western cap styles for those wheels. Very cool to see you still have a set!

The mags now on the car are Western Bullets. They originally had a shallow dome cap that covered the entire center of the wheel. Neither set are original to the car, although it is possible that the wires could have been dealer installed. The wires will require tubes...

The wires are Dunlops. Same company that made the factory wires for most English car makers, such as MG, Triumph and Jaguar. Note the 'D' in the fifth picture. Also note the poorly stamped circle around the D, as well as the arrow to the right of it.