Arne

Ron, here is what Bilstein's website says about servicing them: http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/search-service/service.html But - if they don't have any dead spots, you can (with effort) move them smoothly from full extension to fully collapsed, and they don't show signs of leakage, I myself wouldn't bother. I'd run them as is. In fact, send them to me and I'll test them out for you.

I agree with John. That much toe would be easily visible to the naked eye. Virtually undriveable. Time to look elsewhere for your alignment.

I still like how this exhaust is designed, but I just can't get past that ugly Dynomax hanging at an odd angle at the rear. Too dang visible on a 240Z.

Been for sale for several months. Has Washington plates, and is said to be on the coast, so it is probably across the river from Astoria.

No pigs were harmed in the posting of this message... Da da dum dum dum dum da da dum....

I'll second E's post above, with the addition that if you don't know the history, I wouldn't even bother testing the fuses, just replace them all. Even if they test good, some of them could be 10-40 years old. (I know some of mine were still original when I bought it.) And old glass fuses tend to be very prone to random failures.

Pictures of an ignition lock/switch from a 4/71 build 240Z. Is the same as for my 7/71 as well.

OK, that's tougher. First, I'd need to pull the column cover of, then try to get my honking big camera back in there to try to take a meaningful picture. But this is really pretty simple, as the ignition switch/lock only has one large connector (5 pin), and two small wires (generally red w/blue trace) for the key-in-the-ignition squealer. There's really nothing else to it, and not much that you can mess up.

I was gonna say that, John beat me to it. Yeah, I think I could resist pretty easily. I LIKE L-series mills. Simple, affordable and reliable. Plenty of power for street use.

FSM pictures suck for proper detail. Do you need the coil area, the distributor, or both?

Yes, E10 is mandated in Oregon, but boats, some off-road vehicles and classic cars (25+ years old, IIRC) are allowed to buy non-ethanol fuel if they can find and afford it.

Yeah, 919 was used in '70-71 only. Went to Lime in '72.

Hmm. I've not had any problems with E10 in my 240Z, but one of the Eugene stations selling "The Clear" (as they call it around here) is right on my way to work. Maybe I'll give it a try.

Not normal for my late '71, no.

Steve is correct. Wanted and for sale posts are not supposed to be in the technical/discussion forums. That's what the free classifieds are for. Normally, I delete this type of thread as soon as I see it, along with a PM to the poster about the classifieds. I've been buried at work of late, so I don't get to the site as often and I miss things.

I've locked this thread. The answers to the original post were given early on, and I see no purpose in letting it continue now that it has gone sideways.

Pretty much anything. I use whatever weight motor oil I have handy. All it is there for is to improve heat transfer and reduce the possibility of rust inside the tube. So it doesn't matter much what you use.

Any non-60 series 14" street rubber that you can buy today (with the exception of Hoosiers) are strictly minivan fodder. No true performance capabilities by today's standards. That said, your typical 195/70-14 all-seasons tire of today is still a better all-around tire than anything that you could buy in the early '70s, with the possible exception of the Michelin XVS/XWX lines, and maybe the Pirelli CN36.

Calm down and be civil, Mike. You asked for info, the members have tried, but the precise part that you want does not appear to be available off the shelf. People have proposed options, and you have rejected them. Your attitude has been at least as inflexible as you accused GNOSEZ of being. Your attitude and responses will make others reluctant to try to help you here.

Fill it?? I'm not a body man, but even I know that I wouldn't fill those, just put a skin over them.

If you are going to go to that much glass work anyway, how about buying a glass dam w/blinker holes and cover them when you do the rest of it. You did say you've found glass dams with blinker holes, didn't you?

That's one of those parts that takes up so little room in storage that I kept one from one of the parts cars for just-in-case, even though I strongly suspect I'll never need a spare. But if I ever need to change the clutch, having a spare will seriously speed up the job - I can have my spare resurfaced ahead of time to make it a half-day job, instead of waiting for the machine shop.

Actually, the pure millimetric 175-14 size was typically said to have an implied 80% aspect ratio, not the 78% that was becoming common in US alphanumeric tires. A small difference (2%), but a difference none the less. A qualified yes. First, the original 175-14 size - as well as the modern re-labled equivalent 175/80-14 - is almost non-existant these days, so past a few odds and ends like Vredsteins, you won't be running the original size anyway.The other part to consider is the rim width. The factory steel rims here in North America through about 8/71 build were only 4.5" wide. I'm not aware of any companies who approve of pinching a 195/70-14 down to fit a rim that narrow. For '72 and later, the factory rims were 5" wide, which is generally the narrowest that a 195/70 is spec'd to work on. This is a bit of an issue for people with the early cars and rims, as the factory size is almost unavailable, yet the next obvious size is too wide for the rims. For those cars I'd recommend 185/75-14 as the best alternative. Step up to a 6" rim and things open up. The 195/70 still fits fine, yet 6" is wide enough for up to a 225/60. Same is almost true for a 7", although most 195/70s will be a bit stretched on a rim that wide. I'm pretty certain that I've listed this before, but it seems appropriate to do it here as well. The following sizes are all about the same rolling diameter as the 175-14 (plus or minus 2-3%, which is generally considered a negligible difference). Please note that many of these sizes are no longer available, or at best hard to find. I've not added the P (Passenger) that some may have at the beginning, nor have I added any speed ratings. Also, due to varying offsets, lowering amounts, different air dams, etc., I'm not trying to say that all of these sizes will definitely fit all S30s. This is just for reference. 175R14 (80% aspect ratio) DR78-14 185/751R4 DR70-14 195/70R14 205/65R14 ER60-14 225/60R14 175/70R15 185/65R15 205/60R15 225/55R15 205/55R15 225/50R16 245/45R16 205/50R17 225/45R17 245/40R17 225/40R18 245/35R18 As a final reference, I have 195/70TR14 on 14x6 wheels on my '71 240Z. Works great on a mostly stock car.

Radial As opposed to: Diagonal (bias) or Belted (bias belted)

That makes two of us. (25 years in the business will do that to a person.) FWIW, I agree with pretty much everything posted here.