Arne

I think that was the way I knew that it was time to sell mine and move on to something different - I had no problem selling it. My wife was more bothered by it that I was. It was a great car, but I can only stick with something for so long.

My car's original finish was satin black.

I tried that, the color matches pretty well, but it's way too glossy. I even tried top coating it with a matte clear. Still too glossy.

Flat gray. Same color as the painted parts of the hubcaps. I used spray cans from http://classicdatsun.com/ , -> 240Z items, -> Misc.

I think the point of what BD does is that he is trying to be a simple parts house, and that he really DOES expect his customers to know what they want/need. No where in any of his many catalogs does he say to call for parts assistance - you are expected to look it up and order it. It's a different business model, that's all.

Pleas do all of us on the roads a favor and do NOT install HID conversions into housings designed for bulbs. You might be able to see better, but not so every one else out there.

I once read a magazine interview with the owner/CEO of Long motor Co. (dba Black Dragon & Victoria British). In that interview he stated that he intentionally hires phone operators that are NOT car people. He said that cuts down on chit-chat with the customers and makes his order desk more efficient.

Good, I'm enjoying it. It is a different beast. The 912 should be fun. I would have loved a long hood, but I needed something ready to drive, and the pre-impact bumper cars in that condition are beyond my current budget.

The green car is a solid, honest car. If the current seller has good pictures of the underside, it's a really good candidate for selling to a buyer in Europe. The Europeans have no problem paying what these cars are worth, while Americans are all looking for bargains.

In a perfect world, this may be true. But in my experience, most of the o-rings that seal the speedo output on the transmission are leaking by now. At the very least you'll want to remove the speedo drive and replace all the o-rings, and then watch it carefully for leaks in the future.

Factory 240Z dual points (only in automatic cars) are not a performance deal, they are designed to only use one set at a time, and switch between the two sets to vary the timing for emissions.

I was never able to get that to work well either. Instead, I connected a clear vinyl tube to the bowl outlet, held the tube vertically next to the bowl and cranked the engine to run the fuel pump. With this method you can see the level in the tube and use the measurement in the FSM. No guesswork. Once the level was set in this manner, the fine-tuning of the mixture was a piece of cake. I don't think the settings where more than a half a turn different from carb to carb.

If connected correctly, the early 4-wire tach works perfectly with the pertronix set up. I ran mine w/o issue. We need to clarify - is the issue just that the tach does follow the engine revs? Or does the engine not rev past 4500? Completely different set of things to look at.

As I understand it, the turbulence from no horn messes up the fuel metering in an SU. Remember that the SU design is velocity-sensing. If the air is swirling around in the mouth of the carb, the pistons (and needles) may rise inconsistently. This affects fuel metering.

No contest. Wats are WAAAAY nicer than the SSRs, even restored. SSRs are too busy, IMHO.

I never have cared for slant-noses, but there was a time (20-25 years ago) when I thought whale tails were a must. As I've grown older, I'm no longer of that opinion. My Carrera did come with a tail from the factory, but it was removed years ago by a similarly minded prior owner.

1984 Carrera coupe. Factory Bilstein Sports, limited slip. Moderately fresh engine, very fresh tires, clutch and transmission. Re-chipped to match the cat-delete and sport exhaust. Haven't driven it a lot yet, still busy cleaning and exploring.

Yeah, not just fuel injection, but integrated engine management (fuel and ignition). Currently being handled by an aftermarket chip. Also things like intermittent wipers, semi-functional A/C, power windows, semi-modern tire sizes, etc. And yet - at heart it is still a late 60's sports car. Small, relatively light weight, and responsive. A unique combination.

Yes. I tried twice, but I don't have the equipment to do it in a manner that is clear enough to be useful. The Magnaflow is a smoother, less guttural sound than the Dynomax. The twin outlet muffler is LOUD though, and required an additional muffler upstream.

You leave the car outdoors?

Doesn't do much for me...

I can't recall, but I think the NGKs may be resistor wires. I don't think you need resistor plugs with them. Or, I could be wrong...

Other people who have used that round Dynomax have not needed a center resonator at all. A small glass-pack could be added if you really wanted to quiet it down.

On a '72, I believe the rear reservoir feeds the front brakes. Check for leaks there as well. If there are no obvious leaks in the lines or the wheels, it may be leaking from the back seal into the Master-vac.