Arne

If you are looking for the original cloth covered hoses, start hunting eBay and specialty houses. If you just want proper new hoses, I got all mine from my local Nissan parts department. It helps if you take them the part numbers when you go in, which is a great reason to get the club part CD-ROM.

Yeah, I heard about this yesterday. My prayers to the driver and his family...

Mike, I agree, and I wonder if part of the reason might be that the number of surviving S30s here in the Pacific NW is proportionately rather high, so the dealer people are still used to seeing them now and then. After all, here in my area (population about 300,000) it's not at all unusual to see an S30 driving around, and 280ZXs and old 510, 210 and the like are just as common.

Slow. Mine is a bone-stock '71 240Z, does somewhere around 9.5 seconds as I refuse to abuse the car. R&T magazine clocked theirs at 8.7 back on 1970. Seems about right as I'm probably being easier on the launch and shifting slower than they did.

Really, Mike? None of the US S30's had the antenna switch on the console, to the best of my knowledge.

Yeah, I'm good. ;-)

It's a power antenna switch. Some PO likely moved it there when they installed an aftermarket radio. It appears to be the normal factory '70-71 switch, just relocated.

"Wingnuts" might be especially appropriate in this case...

No, I think you're on the right track there. The factory airhorns should be great inside your filters, assuming that the filters are tall enough.

No, I meant on the sides. As shown in the attached pictures.

Hmm, looks like the rear bumper recesses on the sides have been welded up and shaved.

SUs do have throttle butterflies in addition to the pistons. This theory on the vacuum holding the throttle closed is interesting. I'll have to compare the feel of mine when the engine is not running. I drove it to work today, so might remember to test this on my way home this evening.

No harm to the car, but I seriously doubt that there is any real performance improvement on an otherwise stock L28. That being the case, it might be better for the environment to plan to re-install at least the converter. Just my opinion, others may disagree.

You need an early 240Z tach. They used the four-wire tach in '70 and '71, and the three-wire in '73. I'm not certain about '72s.

Having just done this recently, I'll add that to get the most original looking finish with this paint, apply the last coat rather 'dry' so that it doesn't flow out well.

It's a dual filament bulb. When you put it in correctly the tail light filament is lit. If you force it in the wrong way, the brighter brake light filament is lit. This is totally normal.

The consoles for '71s have two slots also, they are the same as the '70s. You console must be for either a '72 or '73.

The two things to watch for in a used distributor are worn (sloppy) shaft bushings, and bad vacuum advance units. Both can be dealt with, but replacing bushings is fussy work and the advance unit isn't what I'd call a cheap part. A replacement advance unit may cost more than the used dizzy itself. Yes, you can put an E12-80 on a later dizzy that came with the E12-92, I've done it.

Hmm, I've never cared for the Iron Crosses at all, even on a ZX. But I'd never seen a polished set until now, either. Like you Stephen, I don't care for them on an S30, but those are the nicest looking Crosses I've ever seen.

They might, although the core agreement says that you are supposed to return the same make and model parts as you bought. If you get someone who knows what they are and can tell the difference, they may refuse to accept the 240Z calipers, but chances are they won't know the difference.

The round top domes - if they are held down with four screws they are '70-71 carbs. If they are held down with three screws they are '72 carbs.

I have bought from Courtesy, and recommend them highly. But since my local dealer gives me a similar discount, no shipping cost, and no sales tax in Oregon, for me buying locally can't be beat.

Ooh, I'm sorry for you folks. The parts department at my local Nissan dealership is much better than that. The parts manager is looking to buy a 240Z, and one of the counter guys has been there long enough that he still remembers 240Z part numbers off the top of his head. And they give me a good discount just because I'm part of the local Z group. Can't beat it with a stick.

Good comments, all of them. In summary, if you were to spend all the big bucks to use the diesel crank in an L26, you'd end up with a small bore motor that displaces somewhere between 2.7 and 2.8 liters. So if all you're going to end up with is a 2.8, why spend big bucks for the stroker parts when you can buy a complete factory 2.8 for peanuts?

Two comments. First, a 260Z engine (L26) is simply a mildly stroked 240Z engine (L24). That's really the only difference between them. Second, building a stroker engine is expensive. If more power is what you are after, why spend all that cash on an L26 stroker, when the same cash and stroker parts on an L28 will give measurably more power?