Arne

Possibly sticky rings in that cylinder. Run the compression test in that hole again, but pour in a few cc's of engine oil first. If that brings the compression in that cylinder up, the rings are leaking. If it's still the same it's either a valve not sealing or the head gasket. If the oil does bring the numbers up, you might try soaking that cylinder with ATF to try to de-gunk the rings. (Don't forget to change the oil after doing that.)

Understood. Like my car and the sunroof. I always disliked it, but took amost two years to get around to doing something about it.

You ever get that taken care of, Randy?

I've seen all sorts of darker and/or contrasting finishes that look good. But the design of the panels seems to work best with contrast, not body color. My opinion only, of course. No offense meant for those of you who like them body color.

And should you decide to do so, converting to a 4 or 5 speed later is relatively easy. Series 1 240Z auto to 4 speed swap

I personally don't care for the mono-chrome look. These pictures are of the site owner Mike's car. He has been talking about going back to a contrasting color on his car.

I think the copper tubing to reinforce is a good idea. In my old days in auto service, I've seen booster hoses collapse under high vacuum. The brakes still work, but it leads to a significant loss of power assist. That is why brake booster hoses are all internally reinforced.

Won't be cheap, but Les can do it, and do it right. http://classicdatsun.com/

Kats, is the fuel vent hose rigid enough for the master-vac? I'd fear that it might collapse under vacuum.

Pictures would help...a lot.

It was my understanding that while virtually all originally installed airboxes in the USA were orange, many replacement airboxes (as ordered through the parts counter) were blue.

Most certainly.

Oddly enough, we've noticed recently that the definition of positive/negative when discussing offset has flip-flopped since the early '70s. Way back then, positive did mean wider stance, at least here in the USA. But since everywhere else in the world used positive and negative in the opposite way, the US wheel manufacturers conformed. These days, positive offset is what flat-face FWD wheels have. As an example, a typical FWD VW wheel will have +38.

Agreed. I'd probably buy a pair of the chrome trim just to have in case, even though mine are fine. Those lights do look damn good, though...

I don't have a retro system, but did replace my AM with a vintage Pioneer unit. Since there was no way to deal with the antenna switch with mine, I replaced the antenna with a similar full auto unit triggered by the antenna lead on the Pioneer. I've got the original antenna packed away with the original radio.

You want to tuck it in closer to the strut? That's not negative offset, that's positive. And there's really no way to do that, on most wheels. You'd need to have the mounting face milled, which would reduced the thickness of the center of the wheel by the amount milled. Most wheels don't have enough thickness there to allow that. Cast wheel manufacturers generally have different molds for different offsets to allow the proper thickness and strength in the wheel center.

Anyway, CAN$900 is currently about US$800. That's more than I was planning to spend on exhaust, but for a truly vintage looking full stainless system, I'd probably do that, as long as we don't have to wait years to see it. Or I'd consider a rear muffler to fit the MSA system, assuming the price was proportional. Anything else I/we can do to help make this happen?

As far as I know, there are no pre-fab stainless systems currently available for a 240Z. The price seems OK for stainless, depending on how much of the system that includes. One obvious problem is the front connection—would such a system connect to a stock down pipe? Or a header? If a header, what header do we tool up to work with? To maximize the number of cars this might work with, I'd probably recommend 2" or 2.25" pipe, and design the center pipe to connect in the general area of where the factory down pipe ends. Then I'd leave it up to the buyer to fab the actual front connection locally as needed. That way the same system could fit the maximum number of manifold/header choices. Here's another thought—the bad part of the Premium MSA flanged system is the ugly oval Dynomax muffler. How about Stebro leverage that system and offer a nice looking twin tip rear muffler to replace the Dynomax? It would need to be 2.5" inlet with dual vertical tips of say 2" ID. Maybe have the hanger brackets pre-fabbed. The rest of the system wouldn't be stainless, but I think there'd be a better chance of making the 20 per year goal. And that might be simple enough to tool up for that it could be profitable in slightly lower volume. Either way, I'd vote for black wrinkle finish.

Stebro's original systems apparently had horizontal tips. But if they'd be willing to do vertical tips instead, I'd be interested, even if the tips weren't slashed. It'd need to look period though, not modern-style tips. And frankly, even though a few of us may be willing to pop for something like this, 20 systems per year will probably be a good stretch.

Bob, the post you just replied to was almost 3 years old. The issue is probably long finished by now.

I'm with Carl. I'd love to have a pair of Biodes, or their Marchal equivilents—Ampliluxes. Very cool and great lighting. Ampliluxes were made in several variations, most of them were rather large and required bucket mods to accept them.I can't recall when I last saw a pair of Biodes anywhere. Ampliluxes show up on eBay every now and then, but they tend to be $200 per pair and up.

You asked for info in the first post. If your intent was to ask for a part, this should really be in the classifieds, not in the general forums.

Oh! I mis-read. I was thinking of the outer weatherstrip. The inner is considered one-piece, but is—as you've noticed—molded as several different parts that are bonded together. I have the repro on my car. It's not quite as nice as a factory seal, perhaps, but it firs and looks fine. It is also bonded together like the original.

One thing to bear in mind - the definitions of terms like "driving", "auxiliary" and "fog" vary from state to state. Not at all standard. In some states, an "auxiliary lamp" is what I call a "driving light", in others it's a "fog light". You can not compare the regulations directly without determining what they are referring to.

I also have Dave's harness installed, with a pair of vintage Cibié H4s, stock 55/60 watt bulbs. Works great. Once past upgrading the wiring, the particular H4 light assemblies that you pick will have more impact on the output than how hot the bulbs are. From years of personal experience with lighting upgrades, a pair of premium, name-brand E-code lights will give about as much benefit with 55/60 watt bulbs as a less expensive headlight with higher-power bulbs. It doesn't matter how much light the bulbs put out if that light is not directed, controlled and aimed properly. I've personally owned many different brands over the years, and can easily say that Hella, Cibié and Bosch are my favorites. Just make sure that you get the real E-code (Euro-approved) versions, not the cheaper semi-sealed or DOT approved versions. (Assuming, of course, that you can get non-DOT lights past state inspections, if any.) Last, they will need to be well aimed to deliver the desired results. Badly aimed H4 lights can be blinding to on-coming traffic, and at the same time do very little good for you to see. And note that E-code lights can not be aimed using the little gadgets that clamp onto the face of lens. They need either a photometric aimer, or human intervention.