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Arne

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Everything posted by Arne

  1. I'd be willing to bet that the Summer/Winter lever was present on any US 240Z that had the 1971 emissions sticker under the hood. So probably 8/70-9/70 or so. That jives with everything we've seen so far.
  2. Arne posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Depends on build dates. Here is what I learned when I went through this. It's a long thread, but it has a lot of answers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793
  3. Found it in my owner's manual. (Issued date on the back cover, "1st June 1971".) Page 16, "Operating the car". Middle column, last paragraph reads:
  4. Carl, My very late '71 (#37705, 7/71) has the Summer/Winter switch, and associated ducting from the manifold. Still has all its original emissions gear, so I have no reason to doubt that it came that way from the factory.The 4/71 car I parted a while back also had the Summer/Winter switch, but I can't say as firmly that it was original. I believe so, though.
  5. They are actually 46mm, but 1 3/4" is really close.
  6. Arne posted a post in a topic in 240K Skyline
    There IS a Classifieds section. Always has been. A special section for those of you down under, even. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/index.php
  7. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Not just the commission shops. The brake pad/shoe manufacturers recommend that all drums and rotors have at least a skim cut done prior to new friction material to ensure a good, clean surface. Promotes better break-in and less noise complaints.
  8. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Uhhh.......it's your car, so if you like it, go for it. But on a silver car? Personally (as someone who sold gold Enkeis to owners of cars of nearly every imaginable color back in the '80s), I'd say no. I can't picture how the gold wheels would complement your silver car in any way. I could picture gunmetal on it though....
  9. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Brake cleaner is good. You want to remove any oils or rust preventatives used prior to shipping.
  10. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Depends on who you ask. If they aren't rusty from shipping moisture, I'd probably clean the friction surfaces thoroughly and use them as is. But many brake shops will turn them first.
  11. But we still don't know—does he care if the airbox has the summer/winter flapper? If not, there are lots around. As noted above, Mike B said he may have a couple of 'em.
  12. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    No, all Z cars had PCV valves. EGR was not on the '70-72 cars—no bung in the exhaust manifold for it. I'm pretty certain that all '73s had EGR, but not certain enough to bet money on it.
  13. Arne posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Yup. Try this thread. Covers this type of thing in detail. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619
  14. It's stamped on the face of the rim, along with the date code and DOT certification. In this case, 14x5JJ was used from '72-78, I believe. (S130s used 5.5" steel.) But verify that on your particular set before taking my word on this.
  15. Both pinned.A quick reminder, those of you who have Google accounts (gmail addresses) can add your own pins, as the map is public.
  16. Arne posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Where in Oregon are you, Chris? Good chance there's help and advice nearby. Lots of Oregonians here.
  17. Done. Since I don't know where the pen is, I just dropped it wherever. Might have put you in the pen by accident, who knows?
  18. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    The Superior turbine also had vanes going all the way to the center. Beandip has a set on his 240Z.
  19. My answer to this now is the same as when I deleted your previous post. Ask for or offer advice or help, tell a story, express opinions, any of that can be posted in the forums. But "cars/parts wanted or for sale" posts are ads, and belong in the free Classified section. If you want more visibility than that, feel free to become a paying site sponsor.
  20. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30854&highlight=shelby+catalog
  21. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    150 is probably fine. Too many variables to say for certain. Things like the accuracy of the gauge itself, whether the engine was warm or cold (should be warm ideally), and whether or not you remembered to hold the throttle wide open while cranking. All of these things (and probably others as well) can have an effect on the final numbers. But for now, to compare for this one cylinder, try to wet test it in as close to the same condition and method as you did before.
  22. If I understand what you are planning, yes, I believe all the fuses and circuits are in the same spots on both styles.
  23. The car I did had the injection from an '83 in it, so the details may be different from yours. But I still think it should be unplugable.
  24. Unplug it from the main harness and remove it.
  25. One of the main power leads is different, as I recall. On the long-tail, there is a heavy gauge white wire (maybe with a black trace?) that is soldered to the fusebox and connects to the harness with a large blade terminal inside a white plastic connector. In the later short-tail box this wire from the dash harness connects directly to a terminal on the back of the fusebox using a screw. Other connectors on the pigtails may be different also, I never looked into that. Plus the fact that the dash harness connectors on the Series 1 car probably won't reach the shorter pigtails on the later fusebox—at least not without some creativity in routing. In short, I suspect that the later fusebox could be made to work, but it will likely require a bit of re-wiring.
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