Everything posted by Arne
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Correct air cleaner for series one?
I'd be willing to bet that the Summer/Winter lever was present on any US 240Z that had the 1971 emissions sticker under the hood. So probably 8/70-9/70 or so. That jives with everything we've seen so far.
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Dash wiring harness
Depends on build dates. Here is what I learned when I went through this. It's a long thread, but it has a lot of answers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793
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Correct air cleaner for series one?
Found it in my owner's manual. (Issued date on the back cover, "1st June 1971".) Page 16, "Operating the car". Middle column, last paragraph reads:
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Correct air cleaner for series one?
Carl, My very late '71 (#37705, 7/71) has the Summer/Winter switch, and associated ducting from the manifold. Still has all its original emissions gear, so I have no reason to doubt that it came that way from the factory.The 4/71 car I parted a while back also had the Summer/Winter switch, but I can't say as firmly that it was original. I believe so, though.
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3 screw SU's inlet throat diameter
They are actually 46mm, but 1 3/4" is really close.
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Classifieds section?
There IS a Classifieds section. Always has been. A special section for those of you down under, even. http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/index.php
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Quick Brake Drum Question
Not just the commission shops. The brake pad/shoe manufacturers recommend that all drums and rotors have at least a skim cut done prior to new friction material to ensure a good, clean surface. Promotes better break-in and less noise complaints.
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What color wheels
Uhhh.......it's your car, so if you like it, go for it. But on a silver car? Personally (as someone who sold gold Enkeis to owners of cars of nearly every imaginable color back in the '80s), I'd say no. I can't picture how the gold wheels would complement your silver car in any way. I could picture gunmetal on it though....
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Quick Brake Drum Question
Brake cleaner is good. You want to remove any oils or rust preventatives used prior to shipping.
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Quick Brake Drum Question
Depends on who you ask. If they aren't rusty from shipping moisture, I'd probably clean the friction surfaces thoroughly and use them as is. But many brake shops will turn them first.
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Early stock air cleaner housing
But we still don't know—does he care if the airbox has the summer/winter flapper? If not, there are lots around. As noted above, Mike B said he may have a couple of 'em.
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1973 240Z EGR question
No, all Z cars had PCV valves. EGR was not on the '70-72 cars—no bung in the exhaust manifold for it. I'm pretty certain that all '73s had EGR, but not certain enough to bet money on it.
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240z seized engine
Yup. Try this thread. Covers this type of thing in detail. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619
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Original wheel size for 1977 280Z Coupe?
It's stamped on the face of the rim, along with the date code and DOT certification. In this case, 14x5JJ was used from '72-78, I believe. (S130s used 5.5" steel.) But verify that on your particular set before taking my word on this.
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Where do we all live? New shared Google map
Both pinned.A quick reminder, those of you who have Google accounts (gmail addresses) can add your own pins, as the map is public.
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New Z in Oregon
Where in Oregon are you, Chris? Good chance there's help and advice nearby. Lots of Oregonians here.
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Where do we all live? New shared Google map
Done. Since I don't know where the pen is, I just dropped it wherever. Might have put you in the pen by accident, who knows?
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need shelby rim pics asap
The Superior turbine also had vanes going all the way to the center. Beandip has a set on his 240Z.
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240Z rear hatch body weatherstrip......
My answer to this now is the same as when I deleted your previous post. Ask for or offer advice or help, tell a story, express opinions, any of that can be posted in the forums. But "cars/parts wanted or for sale" posts are ads, and belong in the free Classified section. If you want more visibility than that, feel free to become a paying site sponsor.
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need shelby rim pics asap
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30854&highlight=shelby+catalog
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Compression Help
150 is probably fine. Too many variables to say for certain. Things like the accuracy of the gauge itself, whether the engine was warm or cold (should be warm ideally), and whether or not you remembered to hold the throttle wide open while cranking. All of these things (and probably others as well) can have an effect on the final numbers. But for now, to compare for this one cylinder, try to wet test it in as close to the same condition and method as you did before.
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Long pigtail to short pigtail fuse block?
If I understand what you are planning, yes, I believe all the fuses and circuits are in the same spots on both styles.
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Fuel injection to SU carb swap
The car I did had the injection from an '83 in it, so the details may be different from yours. But I still think it should be unplugable.
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Fuel injection to SU carb swap
Unplug it from the main harness and remove it.
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Long pigtail to short pigtail fuse block?
One of the main power leads is different, as I recall. On the long-tail, there is a heavy gauge white wire (maybe with a black trace?) that is soldered to the fusebox and connects to the harness with a large blade terminal inside a white plastic connector. In the later short-tail box this wire from the dash harness connects directly to a terminal on the back of the fusebox using a screw. Other connectors on the pigtails may be different also, I never looked into that. Plus the fact that the dash harness connectors on the Series 1 car probably won't reach the shorter pigtails on the later fusebox—at least not without some creativity in routing. In short, I suspect that the later fusebox could be made to work, but it will likely require a bit of re-wiring.