Arne

Many wheel makers made that style, and the Enkei caps fit several brands. That style was originally introduced by Enkei (Type 26, aka "sawblades") in the early to mid-90's and quickly copied by others. The true Enkei version is different in construction. Most of the copies were one-piece cast wheels with fake rivets. Fairly thick lips. A few of the copies were two-piece wheels, a cast center welded into a rolled barrel, again with fake rivets. Enkeis will have bright anodized lips with clearcoat over the center. They were far more popular on trucks than cars. Real Enkeis were true 3-piece wheels, with a center, outer & inner barrels bolted together, and then welded in the air chamber to seal them for tubeless tires. So in addition to having the Enkei logo cast in the back side of the center, only real Enkeis will have nuts on the back side. Value? If the finish is original and in great shape, they may be worth something, but finding a buyer for a 14" wheel is a bit tough these days. Don't expect to pay for your Rotas...

L24 long block is a hard sell. They have the most value when paired with the matching number car. Beyond that, most people in need of a motor would just as soon get an L28 instead. Similar issue with the 4 speed.

Those wheels had a similar offset to most of the other narrow 14" wheels of the day, including wheels like the common 14" 280ZX alloy wheels. They would fit a Z just fine.

Yup, that's what I meant. I'll correct my post above.

Your center caps have either been stripped and polished, or they may be later replacements that lack the Enkei logo.. Most "directional" wheels are directional in appearance only. You could put them on either side of the car, whichever look you preferred. These Enkei wheels were designed to rotate one direction, although I can't remember which. IIRC, the preferred direction (to enhance the airflow around the brakes) was cast into the back of the wheel also - Left or Right.

The true "Libre" was made by American Racing. The same style was quickly copied and offered by several other wheel makers, most notably Shelby, which was branded as "Viper" IIRC.

Enkei Type 90. Came out shortly after the C4 was released. Mid-80s. Two-piece wheel, the center was welded into the barrel. Barrel was rolled and anodized. Center was clear-coated. One of the first - if not THE first - aftermarket directional wheels, the beginning of that fad. Unlike most that followed, the Enkei 90s were semi-functional - there were directional ventilation vanes cast into the back side of the center, in hopes that they might help keep the brakes a bit cooler. The Enkei logo will be cast in the back side of the center.

In case anyone else is interested, here is the reply I sent to the OP in response to a PM from him: Shelby OEM were made in the early '80s. They were actually a replica of one of the factory optional wheels on Toyota Celica Supras, circa 1981. As I recall, they weren't terribly popular, other than with Toyota dealers, who put them on normal Celicas as a dealer option to pad the price some. I wouldn't think they'd be all that valuable today, $25 each in average condition, maybe as much as $50 each if they were mint. The differences between the Toyota wheels and the Shelby version are few. The easiest to see is the center cap. The factory Toyota wheel had a heavy, cast pot-metal center cap that attached with 4 Phillips head screws. The Shelby version used a more basic chrome-plastic cap that slid in from the back side. Here's a picture of the originals.

A: DATSUN - L4/L6 PERFORMANCE LASH PADS:

They varied a bit over the years, but most had a tip OD of 2.5", with center-to-center spacing of 2.75", giving about a 1/4" space between the two tips. The bottom silencer was about 9" long, and the top was a bit longer to accommodate the angle cut tips. Shortly before I sold my 240Z I built a similar look using a Magnaflow muffler as the base unit.The thread is here - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/exhaust-s30/42357-customizing-my-msa-flanged-exhaust.html The muffler/tip combo I built is shown below. If you are planning to have something like this fabbed locally, be warned that neither the Ansa style tips nor the Magnaflow-based rear section quiets much. I found the end result to be very loud, and added a good-sized glasspack in the center.

You might want to contact BRE about it.BRE: BRE 240Z Decals

The L26 block was the same bore size as the L24. You should have no clearance issues for the larger exhaust valves. That is only a problem when using the later 280Z heads that had bigger intake valves. As far as exhaust flow differences (if any), I don't think it will be significant for a normal street motor.

Is anyone else seeing the "Click here to see your arrest records" ads here? I wonder what Google is trying to tell me? I'm pretty certain the ads are intended to be relevant to the viewer? :stupid:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/21274-240z-260z-280z-auto-4-5-speed-swap.html Details for your situation - Your car is a late-71, but would have still come with a Type A transmission if it were a 4 speed car. You will probably want to find a Type B 5 speed from any non-turbo '77-83 280Z/ZX. (You could hold out for a Type A 5 speed, but they are rare and expensive here.) With the Type B you will need to either enlarge the tunnel opening or have a custom shift lever fabricated.

The mod to worry about is the opening in the tunnel for the shift linkage. The early Type A transmissions will fit a '70-71 w/o mod, but for the most part here in the USA that means a 4 speed, as Type A 5 speeds are rare around here. The later Type B transmissions will require the opening in the tunnel to be enlarged, or to have a custom shift lever fabricated. Type B was available in both 4 and 5 speeds here in the US. Chances are that most any used transmission you will come across will be a Type B. The Type A 4 speed was only used in '70-71 cars. In general, other than the shift lever issue, there are no other differences between swapping any of these transmissions into your car. All the other requirements will be the same.

No, as not everyone does it correctly, and there are more than one correct way to do it.Step 1 - You need to identify the coil for certain. Not just the brand, but also the resistance. Only then can it be determined for sure whether you should have a resistor or not.

For a '71, it depends on the build date.

The automatic cars had an extra vacuum fitting on the balance tube, but that isn't definitive anymore as that is easily changed. The automatics also came with a dual-point distributor and ignition - not for performance, but for emissions. Again, not definitive anymore as many ignitions have been changed over the years. On a later 240Z, there were three obvious differences to the body shell. The clutch line tab and clutch pedal stop listed above, as well as a small bracket way up under the dash where an electric throttle switch was connected. (I believe the switch had to do with the dual-point ignition, not the transmission itself.) It's worth noting that the very earliest automatic 240Zs may have had the clutch line tab and clutch pedal stop, as the first cars were likely to have been normal manual transmission shells. I recall hearing of at least one car that had the clutch line tab, for example. But by the time my yellow car was built (10/70, VIN 12746) the automatic car shells had apparently been finalized. So anything later than that should lack those parts on the body shell.

Good question, Jim. The new forum software now hides the member number quite thoroughly. As Admin, I can look it up in the database, and yours is 21452. But I don't think I can do that as a routine thing for all users. It might get time-consuming!

108mm, or 4.25".

I always used the blue factory filters. Much nicer looking than any of the aftermarket filters. Especially Fram orange...

No other stem works and still doesn't stick way out, trust me, I tried. But the rubber seal where the Appliance stem clamps to the rim is very standard. Any tire shop should have them available. They use the same rubber grommets as most common chrome bolt-in stems.

Depends. Those slot mags were available back in the day in widths from 5.5" to 7".

It's a nice option. Several of the Porsche guys have home-built something similar. My Alternative to a Rotisserie - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

Carl is correct, the Euros need cut down for any insert type in US strut housings. As noted above for non-gas, and about another 1/2 coil each to gas charged. I used them with both, and posted in bits and spurts, and so picking info from my comments can be hard to follow at times, depending on when I posted and how far along the trail to the final config I was at the time. Here's the summary of the various ways I tried mine: Euro springs with US-spec strut housings. • Un-cut with non-gas inserts - Raised car about 3/4" to maybe 1" over factory stock spec • Cut 1.5 coils F, 1.25 R with non-gas (NOS Mulholland) - Raised car 1/8" F, 1/4" R over factory stock spec • Cut 1.5 F, 1.25 R with gas (KYB GR-2) - Raised car 3/4" F, 7/8" R over factory stock spec • Cut 2 F, 1.75 R with gas (KYB GR-2) - Car sat at factory spec both ends (± 1/4" or so) For reference, un-cut, un-sagged stock US springs: • With non-gas (NOS Mulholland) - stock height • With gas (KYB GR-2) - Raised car about 5/8" both front and rear Recommendation: If you plan to cut springs, go conservative, and take good notes. It's better to need to cut another 1/4 coil than to have gone too far. I had mine out and trimmed them several times before I got what I wanted (or could live with). Hack saw works, but I used carbide cutoff wheels on a small hand-held Dremel. Much quicker, but still minimal heat build-up.