Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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Interesting side note to #00029. I was looking through old magazines at my dad's place this weekend, and saw this classified ad in the Nov. '71 Road & Track (pg 126): DATSUN 240Z, No. 00029. BRE springs plus "Spook", mid-close 5-speed, Positraction, custom louvres, new 7-in. mags plus Dunlop VRs, cruise control, burglar alarm. $4995 or Jaguar 2+2 in trade. (Name, address, and phone snipped, but was in Denver.) -
Merry Christmas to all! Test fitted the second round of paper mock-ups today. The shape is now good and ready for production. Font shape looks 'right' to my eyes, and is as close as his process will get to the tweaked ones we have been discussing here. There are still some issues with how the letters/numbers follow the lower curve, but that should be fairly simple to correct.
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The automatic of the G37 is a no-go for me, plus AWD always feels heavier and less nimble. I've always preferred the driving dynamics of the BMWs over the solidity of the Benz's, but that's just me. The BMW is also the only choice with my preferred engine type - inline six!
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Not actively right now, Steve. But I've been keeping my eyes open here in the NW for a while now. It's on my list of things that might be nice for my car, but not a huge priority yet. I may shoot you a PM for details, possibly after the first of the year.
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All '72-78 driveshafts are interchangeable, even the ones from an automatic. You don't want one from a '70-71, as they are about an inch shorter.
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I don't know how much performance you've left on the table, but the need for air horns on this type of variable-venturi carb is a known characteristic, not just on Datsun SUs, but on similar carbs on English cars as well. These cars meter the fuel dependent on the air flow through the carb. If the air flow isn't smooth, the carbs can't do their best work.
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He's posted some pictures in his gallery.
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Yeah, how long before they show back up on eBay from the new owner? We should start a pool!
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I hear you, Adam. I'll probably drive my 240Z to work either tomorrow or Wednesday. But even for those of us who drive year-around, the wait isn't too bad. I've waited three years so far. A few more weeks won't kill me.
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Years ago, this was a concern of mine as well. But I've since come to the realization that a simpler way to deal with this is to simply drive a more reasonable speed. If you need to drive fast, take it to the track.
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If the rust is minimal and non-structural, it's probably worth every bit of $7000. Rust (or hopefully, lack thereof) is key, but you appear to already know that. As a side note, a $5000 budget is an inconvenient limit these days, as most cars I see around that price need significant work, generally for rust repair. Around these parts a $5000 240Z is typically a decent looking car with rust in the doglegs and under the battery. An extra $2k to avoid that would be money very well-spent.
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You're welcome, folks. I decided way back that I wanted one of these for myself bad enough to take on the project, knowing that it may not succeed, and that the road might be bumpy. It has been more work than I expected, but now that the end appears to be in sight, I can say that it wasn't too bad.Of course, I still need to live through shipping them all once they get to me....
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No Carl, I'm afraid not. I had hopes early on that we'd have them by now, but that all went sideways when the original dies turned out to be un-usable. Re-creating it all from scratch has taken some time. I think we are close, now.
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Here's a new but related question - has anyone tried to get a set of the Appliance caps re-chromed? I now have a set of four, one has a couple of dimples to work on, and all four are a bit rusty although far less rusty than most. I don't know if any chrome shops are willing to work on cheap small parts like these.
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All pending payments have arrived. Only one left unsold. Updated availability stats (12/19/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 40 | 23 | 63 | Pending | 0 | 0 | 0 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 0 | 1 | 1 |
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Did you use a dark primer? That can make a difference, too.
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Updated availability stats (12/18/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 40 | 22 | 62 | Pending | 0 | 1 | 1 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 0 | 1 | 1 |
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Had an order adjustment. Updated availability stats (12/17/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 40 | 21 | 61 | Pending | 0 | 2 | 2 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 0 | 1 | 1 |As this now reflects, the 240-Z are all sold or reserved, and there is now only a single remaining DATSUN sunshade available.
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Early Z's like your '70 do not have a low-fluid sensor, so the red light coming on means that there is a failure in the hydraulic system. Most likely one half of your brake system is not working. You will need to do some troubleshooting to figure out which half and why.
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I merged the threads. No need to clutter the forums.
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Yup. Fixed it.
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Updated availability stats (12/16/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 38 | 22 | 60 | Pending | 1 | 2 | 3 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 1 | 0 | 1 |
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We need to make clear a distinction here - there is a difference between a true non-emissions L24 and a de-smogged emissions L24. Yes, the factory spec for a non-emission L24 is 17° BTDC. But that doesn't translate directly to a de-smogged emissions L24 unless you do it completely - to include either installing the non-emissions distributor with it's different advance curve, or re-curving your emissions distributor.
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I noticed an improvement after a few months. It still takes a firm shove even now, a year and a half later.
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That's a firm "maybe". Depends on a number of things, not the least of which is what distributor (and advance curve) you are using. Many 240Zs will tolerate that much advance, but some won't. I'd advance it a few degrees at a time until you start hearing a bit of detonation, then back it off a couple. FWIW, I'm running my late '71 with the stock '71 dizzy (w/Pertronix) at 12° BTDC.
