Everything posted by Arne
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Tell me about the Series 1 Bumper "Override" Bar
I've heard them referred to as "towel bars". 'Nuff said...
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Nissan Motorsports square port header gasket NLA
Back when I bought my Hooker gasket set I got it from a local performance parts shop. They had it overnight from a warehouse in Portland, no shipping cost. Any parts house that sells street performance stuff for a small block Chevy (Edelbrock, Holley, Flowmaster, etc.) should be able to get this part in short order. Why mess with Summit or Jegs?
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Help needed to uncover the history of my Z
I guess my question at this point is - what is the big issue with trying to locate the original owner? Is there some problem you are trying to track down? If not, why expend all this effort? Sure, it'd be great if we all had all the history on our cars. But sometimes that's not available. Is contacting the original owner going to increase your enjoyment of the car?
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Replacement plastic panels
Your descrption of the current panels being "burnt orage" doesn't sound right to me. I think all of your originals have aged and color-morphed.
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Clutch failure?
Really? I've found that dropping the transmission on my 240Z is probably one of the simplest and easiest cars to do that on that I have ever owned. I can do a clutch in my garage on jackstands in 3-4 hours, tops.
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Anyone interested in reproduction US tail lamps?
I'll agree with Mike and Carl. My lights (including the chrome trim) are great. But they could stand to be dissassembled and cleaned inside, especially the left side (over the exhaust). I haven't done it yet because I fear ruining the chrome trim while trying to get it off. That one long stud is fragile and darned hard to get the clip off without breaking it. But if reproduction trim was available, I'd tackle the job, knowing that I could replace it if I did break it.
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Replacement plastic panels
Seems to me that the butterscotch I remember of 30+ years ago was more beige than I see these days. I wonder if the color has aged toward the orangish of your car over the years. It's possible that your new parts may be "correct" for new parts, but not a good match to old, aged parts.
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Various body parts availability/ sources?
I've never seen a spook in urethane, only glass or CF. Rear panels are available here and there, but all 240Z panels had the exhaust cutout. Again, I've never seen one that was correct for a 240Z without.
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240z upgrades
Christopher, as mentioned above, I'd recommend taking a look at some of the very nice semi-local 240Zs in your area before you go into the major project of the twin-turbo. Oregon and SW Washington is home to a bunch of really nice 240Zs that you can use to get a good idea of what is possible for even a mild build up. I'm thinking of the cars of some of the following members (and apologies in advance to anyone in this area I miss): beandip's yellow '73 - Beaverton funz1z and luv24ds's Ferrari red early '71 - Vancouver, WA nwcubsman's wife's '73 - Beaverton-ish? escanlon's gold '71 - Vancouver, WA A little farther South - Mike's yellow '71 - Albany Or even my car, farther South yet in Springfield
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Mustache Bar Question
Nope, no service manual here at work.
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Mustache Bar Question
Not after the nuts are properly tightened, no. The sleeves will be tightly clamped between the body on top and the big washer on the bottom. It won't be going anywhere.
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Remove brake hard line with stainless steel?
The hose would need to have a flare-type fitting on the end, and would need to come straight out of the back side of the caliper. Because the hose can't make sharp turns, it would be very prone to damage. The steel "S" line is a reasonable way to get around this. I see no possible benefits, and several possible drawbacks.
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Questions about rear sway bars for those racing or autocrossing
I'm with Jon on this. I tried disconnecting the stock rear bar for auto-crossing my old graymarket BMW 323i - one time. I was, like you mention, attempting to reduce inside wheel lift and wheelspin. It did help with wheelspin, but it messed up the handling so bad (pushed hard) that I reconnected it before the next run. In the end, I swapped a limited slip into that car. That was the ticket, made a huge difference.
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the WHO halftime
The on-side kick was a gutsy call - took everyone by surprise. Lots of lame commercials, though. I think my fave was the early Doritos one with the dog and the shock collar.
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Mustache Bar Question
Are you perhaps talking about the difference between the diameter of the body-stud and the inside diameter of the sleeve being bigger and not a snug fit? If so, you need to consider that how snug the sleeve fits over the stud means nothing - all the stud does is provide the means to tighten the sleeve to the body. It provides no strength in and of itself.
- Stock SU air cleaner seals/bolts?
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Who else is SNOWED IN?
That was us yesterday, Jon, 62 and sunny. Broke the record high for the date. Not as nice today, but way nicer than what the East coast is getting.
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Who else is SNOWED IN?
Yeah. The snowpack in the mountains around here is averaging about 45% of normal. They aren't predicting a drought yet, but if it doesn't start snowing soon...
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09/70 240Z purchase - what to do
It's not just limited to those who show their cars. In fact, those who routinely attend dedicated Datsun or JDM shows may not get this much at all.But if you participate in mixed-make shows, and especially if yours is the only Z in the show, it can happen. And it doesn't have to be at shows. I found my current red 240Z this way - rather I should say that the previous owner found me. He saw me working on my previous car in my driveway, and the discussion started from there.
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Throw Out Bearing Collar Confirmation
I hope you don't regret the not having a yellow one at some point, Marty. I still find myself looking at yellow 240Zs, especially early 919 like yours. My 905 red is nice, but yellow...
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Pertronix 1.5 vs 3.0 OHM coil and Tach
So unlike the poor, snowed-in folks on the East coast, I am able to drive my car today here in Western Oregon. And since this thread brought this back to mind, I spent some time experimenting with coils and such. The good part is that - after doing a little work to maximize voltage (minimum voltage drop) to the Ignitor (the red wire), I have finally been able to make it run correctly with the 1.5Ω coil/resistor combination. So Zforce's thought about low voltage being a cause appears to be at least partially confirmed. I consider this to be a good interim step. At least this way there's no concern about damaging various components such as the coil or the tach. While doing this, I got to thinking about things like the resistor and the tach, and I'm not certain about a few things. It appears to me that the four wire tachs (which measure at an inductive loop) probably shouldn't have any problems when run w/o resistor. Indeed, my experience would seem to confirm that. I don't know enough about how the three wire tachs work to say whether the increased voltage running to them might hurt or not. Barring further info, I think I'd err on the side of caution if I had a car with a three wire tach and stay with the 1.5Ω coil and resistor. After getting it working with the stock coil and resistor, I then re-installed my 3Ω Pertronix coil and bypassed the resistor. And even with the higher voltage to the Ignitor, this combo again failed to run under load at higher RPM. Acts like a rev-limiter at about 4000. Now I will concede that it is possible that I have a bum coil. But this made me ask myself why we even use the resistors anyway? I've always heard that they were only there to improve the lifespan of the points. So - no points, no need for a resistor? The instructions with the Pertronix coil say that the 3.0Ω coil can be used on 4 & 6 cylinder engines for "normal" use w/o a resistor. The 3.0Ω is not recommended for "racing" use on a 4 or 6 cylinder. The 1.5Ω coil should be used with resistor for "normal" use, and w/o for "racing". The makes me think that neither the 3.0Ω alone, or the 1.5Ω w/resistor are going to perform well at high RPM. And unlike the pushrod British 6 cylinder engines that are a big part of their market, I'd submit that even a stock L24 is closer to a "racing" application than it is to "normal". Considering all of this, both to ensure long-term component reliability as well as giving multiple options, if I do it again I think I'll buy a 1.5Ω coil and use it either with or without the resistor, as seems appropriate.
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Who else is SNOWED IN?
Not 70 here, more like 50 and cloudy. But I'm heading to the barber and will take the Z...
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Throw Out Bearing Collar Confirmation
If I read what you wrote correctly, yes. The way I've tried to learn this is that the throwout bearing collar and the pressure plate need to be matched. The rest is mostly irrelevant, but I can see the advantages to the later slave and fork. Going back to the original Type A, Marty? Can I ask why?
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A review of what's gone - period 240Z exhausts
Very logical. That makes sense.
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Support your local tire shop... it pays off
I won't say it...