Arne

Send a PM to Zs-ondabrain.

My opinion? Black rubber -> :sick: Chrome retractible ->

'97 Integra is a different bolt pattern (4-100mm), plus seriously wrong offset. You need to find 4-4.5" (4-114.3mm) wheels for a rear wheel drive car to be able to simply bolt them on. Any FWD wheels - even those with the same bolt pattern - will need expensive adapters/spacers to fit a Z.

The car is probably salvageable, but $3500 is WAY too much money. It has some serious rust issues, some of which (passenger dogleg, for example) appear to have been just puttied and painted over. The previous repairs (passenger floor, right frame rail, driver's dogleg, rear valance) appear to be pretty half-a$$ed. For $3500 in California, you should be able to buy a car with far less rust, and in better overall condition. I'd recommend some patience and that you pass on this one.

Yeah, Cibiés are not much imported into the USA anymore, so they are difficult to find. Daniel Stern imports them, but in very small volume so they cost considerably more than Hellas, for example. The set that I have are at least 25 years old, judging by what I believe are date codes on the back side. I actually bought them from another member here who replaced them with a pair of clear lens MSRs. Prior to the Cibiés, I was using Neolites. They are low-cost H4s made in India. Not as good as the Z-Beams in light output, but they have the advantage of a convex lens face and some of them are patterned similar to the Cibiés. http://www.classicgarage.com/7rounheadwit.html

Each tube will include a copy of the original instructions circa 1975. The instructions are still valid, but here are some additional tips, based on my recent experience. Cleanliness is essential. You want the inside of the windshield and the contact side of the sunshade to both be as dust and lint-free as possible. You'll never get it absolutely perfect, so accept that up front or you'll get really frustrated.Do not use ammonia-based window cleaners to prepare for installation. Clear water with a bit of vinegar, or alcohol-based cleaners are OK. In either case, rinse with clear water after cleaning.I did a final wipe using a microfiber drying towel to eliminate as much lint and dust as possible. It appeared to help.The original instructions say to use clear water only, with a drop or two of dish detergent as optional. The additional adhesive on the newer mylar doesn't allow it to slide around for positioning as easily as the originals did, so consider that drop or two of dish soap in the water as required. I did not use it on the test application, but did on the last one and it was MUCH easier to slide around and get correctly positioned.Be careful while handling the sunshade so as not to crease or wrinkle it. Special care should be taken while peeling the clear protective film off the adhesive side, as it is very easy to wrinkle it then. Wrinkles in the mylar will show later.The instructions say to use a squeegee, and they do mean a RUBBER squeegee. Flexible rubber is essential, a harder plastic squeegee won't do it.Lastly, it doesn't pay to try to get it positioned too tightly against the rubber windshield seal. Try to get it too tight and you risk wrinkling and creasing the mylar. Absolute perfect fit is not critical since even an eighth to a quarter of an inch gap really doesn't show - since the black rubber window seal is right behind it.

I installed one of my pair today, and I'm well pleased. The fit is nice, and the installation process was much easier this time. I'll be posting some updated hints and tips shortly. Shipping prep has commenced, I'll be working on that some tomorrow, and plan to take a few hours off work during the week to get the bulk of them shipped out. I hope to get all of the USA-bound packages mailed by Wednesday or Thursday. All will be shipped First Class mail. There will be either one or two per tube, as needed. Those of you who ordered more than 2 will receive more than one tube. The International orders will go out a bit later, I plan to pick up the Customs forms early this week, and hopefully ship by the end of the week. My car is alone in the world right now in wearing a current production Bolder Tint sunshade. But it won't be alone much longer....

Dave's third brake light (coming soon) will be the only easily spotted non-period mod to my car. In one way, I hate to do it. But I'd hate to have some bozo in a big SUV rear end me even worse...

I thought this might prompt some interesting discussion. With my current red car, I'm pretty firmly in the "period-where-visible, but modern-where-hidden" camp. Either type, modern or period, I try to do without permanent changes to the car, so they can be reversed if that should ever seem desirable. In my current condition, all of the visible mods are either true-period parts (Appliance wheels, Cibié H4 lights, Pioneer Supertuner radio and Monza rear exhaust), or period-style or period reproductions built recently (my Spook and the just-installed Bolder Tint sunshade). Less visible mods are the lighting relays, Pertronix, ZX alternator, RT-diff-mount and Kenwood 5 1/4" speakers. The KYBs and Euro springs also. Better is that it's all pretty much reversible, without traces. (Other than the holes in the valance for the spook.) And it's fun!

I had a local locksmith cut me a pair from code a couple of weeks ago. I'd recommend having them cut one on a cheap key blank first, as a test, then copy that to the new repro once you are certain it works well. In my case, the locksmith found that the codebook actually contains a typo in my car's code. After correcting for that, the new pair on the generic blanks were fine, so I then had that code copied to the new oval head repro. I plan to keep one of the two generics as an unused pattern for the future, will use one generic as my daily-driver key, and the nice repro when I go to meets, shows, etc.

What's your philosophy on modifications for your S30? Vote here, and feel free to post explanations.

THEY ARRIVED TODAY!! I'll be installing one of mine tomorrow as a final test, then spot-checking and working to combine packages as appropriate. If all goes well, I'll be shipping them out next week. Stay tuned...

I'm with Dave. Can't see many non-locals making the trip for a one-day deal. I hope it turns out well.

Not recommended by KYB. Their instructions specifically state that the GR2 line is not designed for use with any lowering spring set, and the warranty is voided should you do so.That said, I know of a few people who are satisfactorily using KYBs with Eibach... Ride is quite good, when used with rubber bushings. Firm and sports-car-like, but compliant. I'm using them with a set of repro Nissan Euro Stage 1 springs, which had a slightly stiffer spring rate (maybe 10% stiffer) than stock. I'm very pleased with the ride.Ride height issue is more complex. With stock springs, you should expect KYBs to increase the ride height by 10 to 15mm (3/8 to 5/8") over what it was with non-gas strut inserts. The actual ending ride height will vary depending on how much your stock springs have sagged over the years. The Euro springs I am using make the height info even more complex, as due to what we now believe are differences in the lower spring seat location on the strut tubes for the European delivered 240Zs, the Euro springs (either original Nissan or repro) need to be cut down even to get to stock ride height, even with non-gas inserts.

Good question, Dan. Knowing how to safely disassemble these would be extremely helpful during refurbishing them. I'll tag on to this thread with a related question - has anyone successfully repaired or hidden hairline cracks in the original plastic shift pattern emblem?

Previous was a Group Buy thread. I don't know if Dave has any left now.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36463

As I noted in the RT-mount thread, when I installed the RT-mount as a limit strap replacement (using the stock lower mount and upper poly bumpstop) the difference in the amount of lash in my drivetrain was startling. My car is much easier to drive and shift smoothly now. And my lower diff mount was only ~5000 miles old, in a car with a bone-stock L24. I highly recommend the RT-mount in this config to anyone who drives their car regularly.

I believe the check valve is still available, but to the best of my knowledge, the two hoses are NLA. There are more than one style, definitely early and late, might be an intermediate choice as well. Various people have built replica hoses using cloth covered normal hose, and running copper wire inside to hold the proper bends. I'm a bit leery of that myself, the original hoses were heavily reinforced to prevent them from collapsing under high vacuum conditions, which could cause a reduction in power assist for the brakes.

The decals/stickers are available all over. MSA, Zeddsavers, and Banzai come immediately to mind.

Dave, I sent you an email. I heard from Will a few weeks ago. He is - like many of us at certain times in our lives - really busy with other things, and CZCC is not high on his priorities right now. He figured things might loosen up in a month or two.

First, when new 110 was an orangy-red, often called Persimmon. It was not a pure orange. It did not replace 918 (which was the true orange), but replaced 905, which was best described as a warm red. Over the years, these three colors fade and change a lot. 918 frequently takes on a brownish cast, 110 tends to fade toward orange, and 905 fades to be much the same as un-faded 110. The air cleaner color was not exactly the same as any of those colors. Of the unfaded varieties I'd have to say the 918 was closest to the airbox color. Other people have used Chevy Engine orange with good, affordable results. Will you get chastised? Maybe. But it's your car, so unless you are concerned about strict originality, paint it as you like.

Looking at the pictures so far, it is obvious that it was a late-74 260Z that originally came with the big bumpers. The early-style bumpers are a later conversion. That's not a bad thing in and of itself, but seeing something that is obviously a significant modification always puts me on the suspicious side when a car is being promoted as "original".

Since the ad in the classifieds here is posted by you, why don't you tell us about your own car?