Arne

205/60-15 may be OK, depending on your suspension, and the particular tire brand you choose. (Different brands and models will be different width even if the official size is the same.) Other sizes to consider are 195/60-15 and 205/55-15. But without seeing your car, I can't promise for certain that these smaller sizes won't rub. Much better chances, but still not 100%.

I talked to Mike the other day, and the donation will probably be used to pay for a forum software upgrade. So sounds like it will be a benefit to all.

Cleaning up that crappy paint job will be hella expensive if you want it done decently. The heater core is bypassed, which means the heater core and/or the control valve in the car probably leaks. If the seller didn't tell you about that, price needs to come down. It does appear to be relatively solid, though. Price is hard for me to judge. Here on the West coast that's probably at most a $3000 car, and there's generally a couple like that for sale within driving distance of most any where within California, Oregon and Washington. But back East? In NJ? I understand they're much harder to find back there, so the price is probably not too far out of line. In sum, if you are looking to have a clean 240z to drive, it will take some work and money, but looks like it may be a solid start. If you are looking for a car to restore towards original condition, I'd keep looking.

I bought mine in Nov. '06 from Nissan. Part number 46010-E4602, about $175. May have been one of the last few left.

Judging from the pictures, I believe you may have those Bridgestones on the wrong side of the car...

A couple of thoughts. 1.) Bear in mind that it is not at all uncommon for these cars to have fuel odors and vapors inside the car even with the factory fuel tank, due to the way the venting system and filler hose runs through the interior of the car. So fuel vapors in the car may not be a good reason for deciding not to do the fuel cell. 2.) Have you considered any of the rear bumper replacement options to add more detail to the rear? I don't normally care for the rear skirt look, but it may work well with the front air dam. Or another option might be a fiberglass rear 240Z-style bumper that could be painted to match the car. Since these wrap around the sides like the stock bumpers did, they cover the indent in the rear quarter panel nicely as well.

And... These thoughts are probably the best answer you will get. I don't car how much money and modern technology you inject, the basics are still those of a 30+ year old car. You can make it fast, you can make it handle, you can make it stop, but you can't make the entire driving experience similar to a modern car. If that's going to bother you, it may not be the proper project for you.

Dave, this scenario is exactly why Deanna cringes every time she sees me looking at craigslist. One of these days I'm going to see something I can't resist, and I'll be in the dog house too. We're all pulling for your continued survival...

I'm betting you'll find that the one is way too high. Once you determine that, you'll need to adjust it at the float pivot and needle valve inside the float bowl.

To verify my levels, I generally put a clear vinyl tube on the bottom float nipple (instead of the normal tube to the bottom nozzle). Then I remove the power to the coil and crank the engine over a couple of times to fill the float bowl. (If you have an electric pump, just hot wire it for a couple of seconds.) You will now be able to see how high the fuel sits in the float bowl under operating conditions. The fuel should be 23-25 mm below the top of the float bowl when measured this way.

I'm with Bruce. You don't "set the float level" by turning the mixture adjuster nuts. Sounds like the real float level (set at the float inside the float bowls) are not the same in the two carbs.

No, I just missed that you added pictures later last night. In large, I agree with your assessment. I like the idea of using the bumper mount holes for round exhaust tips. Not so hot on the second example.

Hooker Super Comp.

I probably don't really want to know. I still think I'd rather have a 919 yellow 240Z, but really don't think I should be pursuing that right now...

Seriously, no clue without pictures.

This type of relationship between US distributors and overseas manufacturers regarding standard and optional equipment was not at all unusual in the '60s and into the early '70s. Similar examples of this type existed with many European imports as well. I've run into this in the past with British and German imports. Part of it may have been to simplify the inventory headaches for the US distributors. For example, as popular as the 240Z became (waiting lists that were often months long), imagine the complications that the availability of numerous true factory options would have introduced. When the only US choices were color (and later automatic transmission), it really simplified the delivery process to the customer.

In my experience, nothing will attract more good comments than dual exhaust on a car that everyone knows didn't come with dual exhaust. I drove a graymarket '81 BMW 323i for more than 5 years. Imagine a 320i but with tidy, small chrome bumpers and a small inline six. It had staggered BBS rims, lowered Alpina suspension, the lighting was obviously non-US-spec, and the only thing most people could talk about was the dual exhaust. Which was actually factory, in this case. But compared to a 320i, that was what they noticed, not the bumpers.

Not before 8/70 production for the North American market.

Your Mileage May Vary. I don't know that I've ever used that when really talking about mileage!

Dimensions are listed on the page in the specs - 25" L x 17" W x 9" H. Stock tank is ~16 gallons. Figure 25-30 MPG on the highway, depending. YMMV!

Not at the present time. I know that Will has it on his list of future repro items, but no ETA. Not too soon, I suspect.

I think the idea for the exhaust would look great. Might as well put those bumper holes to a better use. This might be more suitable, especially if you remove the spare well. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-290108/

Realistically, I can't see many downsides at all for a non-stock car. Safer, no tank rust issues, and a lot more flexibility in other mods at the rear of the car. No personal experience with, or recommendations for any particular makes or models, though.

Hmm. My clock not only works, but it's actually quite accurate. Within a couple minutes per month.