Arne

No, too sharp an angle and much too long. The correct stem is very short, the stem part is less than 3/4" (~17 mm) long. The angle is approximately 45°. This allows them to point out from between the spokes, but not really protrude out so far that they are in danger of being snagged and damaged.I shopped around for replacements for these Appliance stems for 3 years, never saw any current production that would work decently. All of the angled stems I have found are either too long, wrong angle, or often both. I have come to the conclusion that these items were truly unique.

I'm not sure why you'd want to do this, or what you result you expect from such a mix. In my experience, it's not normally a good idea to have components that are "tighter" or "higher performance" on the front than on the rear. Tends to make a car wander and the rear end feel "loose". Definitely happens with higher performance tires on the front than on the rear, and also with suspension components. So I personally would not recommend this setup.

I bought my last bag of 10 trim rivets from Nissan, and they seem to fit pretty well. Still a fair number of squeaks in the rear, though. Part number for black is 90909-E4100, my club discounted price was $0.86 each back in '08.

Parts car, and not many parts left at that. The interior has been on fire. Definitely not restorable without EXTRAORDINARY effort and cost. Pass on it, big time.

It may be significant to also consider that VW's current US offering in this market (the Routan) is built for them by Chrysler - it is basically a re-badged Grand Caravan. VW may have pioneered the market, but this sounds like surrender to me.

That's one of those real early pre-production publicity photos. No emblems and bias ply tires.

The distributor is driven by the oil pump shaft, and that is what is off by a tooth. You will need to drop the oil pump and re-index the shaft. IIRC, you'll probably need to drop the front of the sway bar to drop the oil pump. The oil pump gear is helical, so it is very easy to get it off by a tooth. Turn the engine to TDC (0°) before you start. At TDC the indexed key for the distributor should be just a bit off of vertical. Imagine it as a clock face and the time is 11:25. Note which way you need to turn it, lower the oil pump enough to move it a tooth that direction and put the pump back into place. Re-check the shaft key. Repeat as necessary to get the 11:25 setting. Probably only one tooth off if you can get there by turning past the holes.

I've owned 2 close relatives - an MG 1100 (Mini Cooper's slightly larger brother) and an MGB (mechanically almost identical to the MGA). But I figure close only counts in the three 'H's - Horseshoes, Hand grenades and Hydrogen bombs.

I've only personally owned one - the 240Z. But I've driven 11 of the 20. Or 12 if later Jeeps than the one pictured count.

No, the stems are still NLA. I had to buy another set of wheels to get them. Then re-sold the wheels without the stems. Only way I could find to get a set. I'm not aware of any acids in polishes, the acid-cleaners I was referring to are spray on liquid cleaners. They typically caution that using them on polished finishes is not recommended as they will etch and dull the finish. Any decent polish should be fine. I've used Mothers paste by hand, and also used Mothers Power Metal liquid with a Mothers Power-ball in my cordless drill.

Hey now! Even US-spec ZXs are outside my knowledge comfort zone, and real JDM Fairladies are far outside. Anything I guessed would be just that - a Wild A** guess.However - as an old former tire/wheel guy I would be interested in hearing any history you can find out about the rims on it. They appear to be 14x6 Appliance brand "Wire Mags" with the spoke area painted gold. Appliance never offered them painted like that, and they phased out that style well before your car was imported in '84, but many of them were actually cast in Japan for Appliance. It wouldn't surprise me too much if the company who built them for Appliance also marketed them under a different name in other markets. So I'd be curious to know if they were installed on the car here in states (probably as a used set in that case), or if by chance they were installed in Japan before the car left for the US. As part of my curiosity and reference on them, I'd love to see a closeup of the center caps and lug nuts.

You may want to contact JLPurcell as he had the original style reproduced a few years ago and was selling sets now and again. I don't know if he still has any available, but his were the original style with the '240Z' open to the body color rather than the reverse as MSA now sells.

My glass guy put in the trim before the seal, seemed to work well for him. I can see where with the blacked out trim that the narrow might be acceptable. But with the stainless I'd probably want the wider groove, if I could get one. My rear groove is noticeably narrower than the front, even though they all came from Precision in the same kit.

In the USA, '69-72 are all the same, but '73 is different, having the bumperettes spaced closer together. Sounds like the bar you got is for a '73.

Assuming that my 35 year-old (and very cheap at the time) dwell meter is reasonably accurate, I'm showing ~35° at idle. Bottom of the spec window. Increases slightly as the revs go up, but not more than 5°, still within the spec window. This change might tend to confirm Pertronix's claim that the Ignitor has "adaptive dwell" which is somewhat variable. Or it could indicate that my meter is crap.

OK, you've got me on this one. On all of the Zs I've owned, the screws go straight out away from the driver's side of the steering column. I don't see how the dash could interfere. Can you post a picture of how your switch is oriented?

BTW, I deleted your other thread. Don't post the same question in more than one forum.

I've never had a problem getting to either of them in this manner. What's in the way of the top one?

If you are willing to travel for a car, consider visiting the USA West coast. Good examples are generally cheaper by thousands out here, and the selection isn't bad.

Those are the anti-theft screws. The normal heads are designed to break of when you tighten them down the first time. To remove them either drill the heads off, or use a Dremel tool (or similar) to cut a slot for a blade screwdriver into the head.

I edited your code to load thumbnails. If you are going to load images like that, resize them to screen appropriate size first.

This one scares me. What part of the wheel well? You say "the size of a pancake" - how big a pancake? 2"? 4"? More?

Are you planning to paint it yourself, or have a shop do it? If you are having it done at a shop, talk to the painter about the issues. He should be able to custom mix as needed to make it right. That's what I did on mine in 905 red. The paint mixed to code was not a great match, but after the painter tweaked it it was great..

Steve, I used the Precision kit on my car 2 years ago. I believe mine came from MSA, but I can't confirm that right now, nor do I know that there is any difference between Precision kits from other vendors. But the key issue is that the trim channel on mine is rather narrow, and doesn't show the trim correctly. I'd say that the trim that shows is only 8-10 mm wide, the rubber overlaps the trim too far IMHO. Seeing the difference, and seeing how the Precision piece looks on my car, I'd be tempted to try the BD piece with the wider groove. I'll try to take a picture and post it here later this evening.

Ouch! I'll wager buying them individually from Nissan would be significantly less than that.