Arne

Well, it is a little thing - I drove mine to work today...

Typically with Eibach, the springs with the '1' at the end of the painted on part number are the fronts. Despite other things you may read, it makes no difference at all which end is up. The car may settle some, bit not much. If you are comparing the height with Eibachs to the prior height with possibly sagged stock springs, there may not be much difference. What is the height measured at the bottom of the rocker panels? And what size tires do you have?

You are about as far away from this shell as you can get and still be in the country, but I thought I'd post it anyway. http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/1666902387.html

Canby is great gathering to see more vintage Datsuns. Sure, there'll be no shortage of dimes and Roadsters with modern powerplants in 'em, but there'll be plenty of L-motors too. If you make it down from WA, watch here for info about meeting up at the I-5 rest area for a Z caravan the last 5-10 miles in to Canby.

Nope. That about covers it.

I agree with both of the above, the problem of dying when the key drops back to Run is either a bad ignition switch (the small electrical part screwed to the back of the ignition lock) or a bad ballast resistor. Try by-passing the resistor first, if it runs that way the resistor is bad. If the problem still persists, suspect the switch. The problem of the key coming out in all positions is either worn pins (wafers) in the ignition lock, a worn key, or more likely a combination of the two.

The tone and note is great, smooth and musical to my ears. I drive around with the window down all the time, just to better hear it. But for my taste it could actually stand to be a bit louder. And the Monza I have definitely isn't as carefully built as the Ansas, the angle tips aren't aligned as nicely as I'd prefer. But the Monza was quite cheap, and since I wasn't certain I wanted the dual-tip look, it was a great and inexpensive way to find out. Turns out that I do like the look, and will work to keep it when I replace my current small diameter (1 3/4") system. Currently leaning towards using a Magnaflow rear muffler to replicate the look of the Abarth system rather than the the Ansa look. But either look (Ansa or Abarth) will be fine.

Yeah, all three of those are the same stem. I tried one of those, they would work in a pinch, but protrude to far out into the open air for me to be happy with them. I'd rather fight with the very short rubber stems.

I don't think so, just open up the casting for the pump. Oh, make certain that the fuel pump cam is present - should be bolted to the front of the cam gear.

Not fair, Bruce. Mike has been at the past 2 or 3 Canby events. Even drove #32 down last year. What he's looking for is something in addition to Canby. I can certainly support that. Same here. :disappoin:sleep:

Wow. Really glad the weather has been this wet around here. Had it been really nice I might have considered making the trip. And judging from the pictures, it would have been a huge waste of my time.

Bumpers, air cleaner base and taillights make it look like an early '74 260Z to me. No matter, you're welcome here either way! If you envision a thread to cover the whole project, I'd probably post it in "Your ZCar Stories".

Waiting to see the pics....

Something to consider - any metallic color is probably not going to look its best unless sprayed carefully. Might not be the best choice if you plan to stick with the method you have been doing with the white.

The output seal is about $5-7 from Nissan. Pull the driveshaft, and R&R the seal. Simple job. Part number 32136-U0100, same for all years, I think.

Got to thinking about this plan, and after reviewing my notes I'm not sure that the ZX ignition is the answer. Besides the issue with the aggressive advance curve of the ZX (which can be overcome), I had the same problems - generally at 4000 RPM - with the ZX. My fear is now that if your car isn't happy with a Pertronix, it may be equally unhappy with a ZX. Might be worth waiting a bit before dropping that kind of cash on something that might not be an improvement.

That's the point I've come back to now. In fact, I've spent far more time swapping ignition parts around over the past two years than I would have spent maintaining points. After all, I only drive it 3-4000 miles per year. How much maintenance would points take for that period? Not much. Had the detonation issue been the only problem with the ZX for my car, I'd have probably gone this route. But the detonation was only part of the issue. I still experienced the failure to rev out with the ZX ignition - indeed the revving problem was lessened if I retarded the timing so the detonation became a minor issue for me. Yup, that's how I ran it. Both with a used original and a brand new ZX coil. The spare module I carried in the car came from a 210 in the local pick-n-pull, paid $10 for it. It worked fine, and got my friend back home when his module failed without warning at a Datsun show. I think it is still on his car running great even now. My thoughts exactly. At this point I figure I have better things to spend my time on.

Just the standard things. Hotter spark, less need for choke, faster starts, and less maintenance. Nothing critical, and nothing that's worth the fussing around that I keep doing. Tried with and w/o the resistor in virtually all situations. In all cases, it worked better with the resistor bypassed, but still not as reliable as the points.Oh, to be honest, I can't say that I won't try it yet again. After all, I already own the stuff, eventually I'll convince myself that there must be a way to get it to work. But the most consistent problem has been spark wash-out at anywhere from 3500 RPM on up, the exact point it fails depends on what other config I have running at the time. Things like ballast or not, wide or narrow plug gap, which coil, etc. It's worth noting that while I've seen this failure-to-rev complaint now and again with the Pertronix, I also experienced it with the ZX dizzy. This is what leads me to believe that the root cause is my car, not the ignition per se. The most likely theory in my mind at this point is my car has too much voltage drop at the ignition coil and such.

I re-checked mine, and I find I had read the meter wrong. Mine is at ~35° at idle and also drops slightly with increasing revs, not increasing as I wrote earlier. As to why, I'm also leaning towards current sensitivity, due to my other symptoms with EI, and the fact that the ZX alternator addition did seem to help some of my issues.

For that type of color, it might be easier to ask for Grabber Green (early '70's Ford Maverick) or the similar green used on the 'Cudas and Dusters in the early '70s. Codes for those colors are probably easier to come by than for Kawasakis. Although - Krylon used to have a color they called "Jungle Green" that was widely used in the mid-80s as touch up paint for Kawi off-road machines.

Done that, several times. Yup, analyzed and followed them carefully. More than once. It's a simple device, not much to screw up there. I guess that's part of the problem. I've never had any problems with points. They work great, better than the EI systems. Cars used points for decades. They are also simple devices.

My take gives the same answer, but from a different direction. Would I recommend adding A/C if you didn't have it already? No. But since you already have it, if you can make it work I see no reason to yank it.

Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good, solid dizzies. I've fought pinging from bad advance curves, ignition washout at higher revs, and sometime both. I've swapped plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. around several times in a concerted attempt to make this work. (It probably doesn't help my confidence in this knowing of at least three E12-80 failures in the past few years around these parts, either.) Try as I might, I haven't been able to get anything to work as well and trouble-free as the stock points. I'm not an idiot, I've been working on and restoring old cars for decades. But I've certainly failed here. Yes, I'll concede that a good electronic ignition should be superior to the stock points. But for a weekend GT touring car, the points are probably good enough. I'll also concede that considering how many people have made this work on their cars, perhaps my car itself is at fault. (Perhaps too much voltage drop at the ignition?) But on the other hand, there's plenty of threads here with people having issues with electronic ignition conversions, so maybe I'm not alone. At this point I'm not convinced that either the ZX ignition or the Pertronix are the answer. Maybe the Mallory Unilite is better, but that's too much money for a stock L24. I'm still open to suggestions. I've got a Pertronix Ignitor and 3.0 Ω coil sitting on the bench right now. If someone can give me a clue, maybe I'll try again. Or not. It's running great on the points right now....

Maybe. If the car is truly a Series 1, it should work fine. But while some 1/71 cars are Series 1, most are Series 2. If it's a Series 2 harness, you'll need the matching fusebox as well. And again, I don't know if a Series 2 will plug into your existing rear harness.