Arne

Really, you should know that answer! The exhaust note of an inline six is pure music! I don't even turn my radio on much of the time. Just roll down the window and enjoy!

Well, my best guess as of now is that the Pertronix will work fine in most cars, but only if everything else in the ignition is good also. The differences between what I have installed now and working fine (so far) and what was failing to rev past 4500 RPM when I last went back to points are two small things: 1.) I replaced the older BP6ES plugs with a fresh set; and 2.) I made up a new power supply wire to run to the Ignitor that was much larger gauge wire than the previous wire, hoping for less voltage drop to the Ignitor. That's all I did differently, yet this time it's running fine. The jury is still out on this, as I don't yet trust it to stay this way.

I can't dispute your other claims, but it's hard to see how the synchros on the B boxes could be better, as they all use the same synchro (baulk) rings. The 'A' 4 speeds, 'B' 4 speeds and 'B' 5 speeds all use part number 32604-P0100.

Oh, I know myself so well. Today I put it all back.Decided it was time for a minor tune-up today. So as part of that I decided I'd try it one more time, and give it every possible chance to work. So I installed new plugs (NGK BP6ES), new wires (not that the old ones were bad, but I'd couldn't handle those bright blue NGK wires under the hood of my red car any more), cleaned, tested and lubed the advance mechanism, installed the Ignitor and matching 3.0 Ω coil, bypassed the resistor, and built a new, heavy-gauge power wire to the Ignitor. Set the timing to 8° BTDC, vacuum advance still hooked up. So far, so good. Seems to pull smoothly to 6000+ in first and second, didn't drive it anywhere I could try it in the higher gears. So I'll give it another try for a while. Updates will be posted when/if things change.

I've seen replacements of solid aluminum, but nothing listed in harder rubber or poly. I replaced mine with new factory rubber, and it seems OK to me. You could also try removing your rubber ones and taking them to an off-road shop to see if they could match them up with some poly bushings for off-road shocks. Seems to me that they look very similar to some of the shock bushings I've seen, might get lucky.

Sure. Get 'em from your favorite Nissan parts department. R180 - Part #08229-22810 R200 - Part #38354-P6600

If you do go with spacers, try to use the thinnest possible. If the rubbing is just a little, a 1/8" (or sometimes 5mm) may be all you need. The lug studs on a Z aren't very long, so the less spacer the better. But I'd first look into using a file or grinder on the caliper, as Jon noted. Often all you need is a little casting clean up.

Oregon doesn't keep track past 10 or 12 years old. Which means that ALL of my vehicles are now mileage exempt. Ironically, the Z is the lowest miles car I own, by 30k+. Not counting the motorcycle, of course.

Advertises what's under the hood. Like leaving an iPod, nice camera or a laptop computer in view on the seat - begging for someone to do a smash-and-grab.The emblem is cool when it means something (like it did/does on this car), but if the car can't be garaged I don't think I'd want to advertise it like that.

Paint is almost two years old now. Exterior refresh of my red 240Z Tail trim was repainted almost three years back now, using some of CDMs paint. The batch my paint came from may have been a touch lighter than some, but it is darker than it looks in the pictures.

Hmmm. Looks like some of us chatty "newer" members need to get a life....

Has anyone besides Chris (26th Z) considered having their originals re-webbed? http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Ssnake-Oyl&Category_Code=RS

Probably the guys following him with the camera running. Why else would you be taking video on a boring street like that unless you knew the tire was going to come off?

First, I'm right there with you, rubber bushings are fine for street driving. But as Jon said, you won't even know they are there, but they will prevent damage to your new Tokicos from bottoming out. Poly bumpstops are the only poly parts in my car, the rest is factory rubber. And in fact, I don't think there are any other replacement bumpstops still available.

Sounds like a seized strut insert to me. So the Tokicos should take care of it. Did you order new poly bumpstops?

Trust me, if anyone knows if it is just that simple, it's me. And yes, it is that simple.

Yup, the firewall is from a 260.

Lots of people here who have eliminated the evap tank and most of the hoses inside the car. It can be done without eliminating the vent. Look in the Tech articles on this site, I think there are at least one or two write-ups on this there.

Look again, I said "Factory", not third-party. You want a real Nissan manual.

If you don't already have one, get a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year. The FSM (not cheap third-party books) has good explanations of all the systems in the car, how and why they work.

Not before late Summer, it appears.

Probably. It always is, you know. But since these people ARE professionals at this stuff, I figure they probably know what they are doing.

Who knows? I'm not an engineer. But even the simple stuff - is there enough room under the hood for both engine and suspension? How strong are those A-pillars going to be in a roll-over crash test? Will the... You begin to get the idea, I'm sure. I can sit down and sketch a cool tweaked version of most any car. But that doesn't make it feasible, financially, or engineering-wise. That's all this is, a personal sketch taken to the next sketching level.

Again, any updates?

Nothing but some guy's napkin drawing rendered as a 3-D model. No engineering behind it at all. Just a lot of, "Hey, wouldn't this look cool!"