Arne

Fair enough. I'm familiar enough with how a totally innocent comment sometimes may come across wrong in a plain text communication like this, so I generally give the benefit of doubt to the poster anyway.What drivetrain are you going to back that motor up with?

I don't really think of myself as a "purist", but I'm sure that others think of me that way. And while I have no personal desire to have a V8-powered Z, if you do, go for it! But I will say that as an admin/moderator, I don't much care for the confrontational, in-your-face attitude of the original post.

Many people (including the professional glass man who did mine) install the trim into the rubber BEFORE installing the glass into the hatch. If that is no longer an option, I believe there are special tools for this (that may or may not work well).

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34891

If the throttle butterflys are closed, they impede the flow of air into the chambers, thereby giving lower compression numbers. Trust me on this, hold or block the throttle wide-open while testing. For the most accurate numbers, I've even known people to remove the SU pistons during the test as well. You want the engine to be able to suck in all the air it can take.

Thought I'd post an update on this. I finally got to the point that I felt I had to do something about the blue NGK wires. They just weren't the right look for my car. So I did some shopping at a local parts house and picked up a set of "Magstar Gold" wires. They are black with black boots, and other than the color appear to be very similar to the NGKs. Part #12-6416 was the set I got, the fit is decent. Does not have the bent boot for number six. But they are built here in the USA by Wiretec (a division of General Cable) and were quite affordable. Obviously not stock, but not "in-your-face-blue-aftermarket" either.

I agree. Pull all six plugs, not just one at a time. And holding the throttle wide-open is also important, the numbers will be considerably lower with the throttles closed. I'd re-test, and I suspect your numbers will be higher next time.

Came from a recent (completed) group buy here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35617 The pre-production test unit I had in my car for a couple weeks was even wider yet. I had Joe trim the template back a bit to this current size. I have not found the lettering to be obtrusive, but the 240-Z lettering does not extend as far beyond the mirror as the DATSUN does.Thanks for posting this follow up picture, Julio. I need to get a new picture of my car with the finished product on it, not just the quickie shots I took in the garage. I may end up merging this thread into the original group buy thread later, just to keep it all together.

The avatar looks great, Jonathan! Can't wait to see bigger pictures.

I was recently visiting my parents and spent some time paging through my Dad's library of vintage car magazines. Saw a classified ad in one of them for a 240Z - no pictures but as part of the description it mentioned:"...Konis, American Racing mags, 185/70-15 XWXs..." I figure that car had to have Lemans on it. That was the only 15" choice that would fit a Z back then. Those 185/70-15 Michelin XWXs (standard equipment on many Porsche 911S's) were big dollar, V-rated performance tires. Prior to the release of the Pirelli P7, the XWX was the king of the hill. That size would have been a bit (10mm) wider than stock, but also a touch taller, with a very flat tread face. Since lowering cars wasn't common in those days, and the Lemans wheels having a +12 offset (as we measure them today), they should still have fit OK. That car may have been the first 240Z with a +1 tire fitment! And yes, I still think I want a set of these wheels...

The club Parts CD is an authorized copy of the microfiche in PDF format. You can order a copy here: https://www.classiczcars.com/store/ Note - the security certificate on this site has expired long ago, so you will get a warning when you visit it. Second note - the order helps support the operation of this site. But Mike (the site owner) travels a lot for his day job, and frequently is unable to ship the CDs promptly. So I'd recommend patience if you order a copy.

Chris makes a good point. There are members who have been supporting the site regularly using an old (but recurring) method that the forum software can't see. So those members names don't turn red. Doesn't mean they are supporting. The numbers I quoted above (15 at the time) were only the members that the forum software knows about. There are others...

There are several supporting members who don't post often or at all, so you never see their names in red. As of tonight, there are 15 active supporting members.

Yes, the site was down, but all is well again now. And while more funds are always welcome, the issue was not lack of money. I'll let Mike explain it if he wishes and has the time.

I suppose that depends where you are at. Here in Oregon, all cars have titles, regardless of age, and the DMV can require a physical inspection to verify the title matches the car. They generally want to see the car when registering a car from out of state, or a car that has not been recently registered. When I titled my first 240Z that I bought in Washington, they compared the WA title to the car, and they even knew to check the firewall stamping.

The original VIN is stamped on the firewall as well as the dash, door and engine compartment tags.

You need more than the injected engine. Fuel tank, fuel pump and other electrical things that don't exist on the 240Z body. It really doesn't matter which engine you use, either will work with the 240Z carbs. Lots of people running 240Z carbs on a 280Z (or ZX) engine in their 240Zs. It's a good combo.

OK, I totally missed that the original poster was considering adding the 280Z injection to a 240Z. I had thought he was talking about converting an injected car to carbs, which is a totally different topic.My first 240Z had 280ZX injection swapped on to it when I bought it. My experience is that adding injection to a 240Z is expensive and difficult to do correctly. You would need a lot more than just the parts on the engine to do it right. While I'm very supportive of maintaining and using the original injection on those cars that came with it, I definitely do not recommend adding it to a 240Z unless you REALLY know exactly what you are getting into. For this application, I'd use the 240Z carbs on your L28 in the 240Z.

Earthquake coverage is a separate policy or an additional cost item on your policy, in my experience. It is not an automatic thing. And it may be difficult to buy in an area known to be quake-prone.

Which is on the car now? And which are you most familiar with maintaining?

The flats are just above the bushings on the shift lever. The drawings don't show them, so I added an arrow.

Yeah, I haven't seen the early one on eBay for a while. Here's a picture from rtaylor from the gallery here:

That was the standard (and indeed, only factory-equipped) radio for all '70 & '71 240Zs in North America. My 7/71 car also had this signal seeking radio. For '72 in North America the standard offering was an AM/FM (not stereo) that was not signal seeking.

Lots of cars that were "officially" sold and registered as '71s were Series 1 cars, Stephen. Indeed, there may have been more '71 Series 1s than '70s. Series 1 production totaled close to 20k cars. Any car built 9/70 or later was generally considered to be a '71 model year, so according to the cars in the zhome.com register that means that any car after #9000 was probably a '71. So there were probably close to 11k '71 Series 1's compared to 9k '70 Series 1's.

To the best of my knowledge, the engine has never been out of my car, a late '71. It has no shim on either side.