Arne

Saw flat-tops, glossed right over the piston part. April, can you amplify your concerns?

April, I've heard lots of different complaints about the US flat tops (which your car does have, I looked at your Gallery pictures), but I can't recall ever hearing about them catching on fire. Here in the US, they are jetted quite lean, and tend to run hot and cause vapor lock, but fire? That's new to me.

That's a great find, Gary, especially on the East Coast! Really nice looking car!

Bear in mind that unless you use air horns inside the pod filters to smooth the air flow, you will LOSE performance and make it difficult to tune your carbs properly. The air horns inside the factory air box are very efficient and do a good job. Most any of the normal online suppliers will be happy to sell you the pod filters - MSA or Black Dragon are the two obvious choices.

Definitely a remnant of some ham-fisted previous attempt to replace the seal. The woodruff key was partially out of place, and showed obvious signs of having been peened by someone in an attempt to hold it in place while they re-installed the pulley. Luckily, I had a spare pulley on the shelf (from my old 4/71 parts car), as well as a pair of new spare woodruff keys left over from my transmission rebuild (the Type A transmissions use the same keys). So the car is back together now, and all seems to be fine.

Went to change the front main seal today. Think I found out why the seal was bad...

Pretty much, yes. One side may be a tad sun faded. I believe the part as pictured above is a fair representation.

^MikeW - Yeah, I agree 100%.

Not wear or drying. The new ones are apparently not made by the same manufacturer' date=' that's my guess. Here are the differences:[img']http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/3223/DSC01030.jpg

I agree. But I have one of those new ones, and it looks so heavy and chunky-looking compared to the worn original that I actually have the new one in my sock drawer. I'd rather have my worn original than the new one. It's that bad (to me).

The big reason I went with the Pertronix was that I did not want to have to find a place and drill holes to mount the Crane under the hood of my car. The Pertronix is self-contained inside the stock distributor, so no drilling or such-like was necessary. I've had both a Pertronix and a ZX (E12-80) in my car, both were similar. In both cases, everything better be 100% for either to work properly. Worn plugs or too much voltage drop will cause less than optimal performance.

Welcome, April. Get cracking on those brakes and start having fun. Trust me, once you get the brakes and suspension sorted (and the seats), you'll have a lot more fun with a Z on the Green Springs than on 97. (I grew up in K Falls, still have family there. Don't get down with the Z much, though.)

I deleted the duplicate thread.

No help from me on this. Racing on public roads or highways is irresponsible and stupid. You want to race? Take it to the track.

Large connectors were used on Series 1 cars in the USA, through about 12/70 production. The small connectors were used from then through the end of '73 production. The early style (large connector) taillight wiring is different from the later cars, too. In the early cars both upper bulbs work as brake lights, but only the outers are brake lights in the later cars. I may still have a pair of the correct large connector taillight harnesses. PM me if you're interested.

Someone please tell me this thread is meant as a joke!

Check the insulation on the wire that runs from the points to the terminal in the side of the dizzy. Make certain that it isn't shorting out there.

I actually think that the majority of these were purchased for use on cars that aren't yet ready for them, so I don't know how many have really been installed yet. Probably not many.

No need for a second thread on the same topic, so I merged them into one thread.

Fixing the rear quarter panel and replacing the fuel tank will be much cheaper than repairing a pile of rust. Looks like a good start. It appears to be a late '71 in 905 red, so it started life very similar to my car.

Nissan added new improvements all the time. Compared to a '71, a '73 has retractable seatbelts, intermittent wipers, the later style transmissions (eases possible tranny swaps), and improved differential location (better halfshaft angles). Many people who want to keep them stock don't care for '73s because they have the despised emission-carbs here in the USA. But if you are planning to mod the car anyway, just use the earlier style carbs (assuming they haven't already been swapped) and you're golden.

If it's not rusty, this one is a far better buy. Might have farther to go to get it auto-x ready, but a much better starting point, in my opinion. '73s are better daily drivers, too.

I'll bet my car has been in the rain at least 8-10 times this past winter alone. Different strokes... I'm with Julio on this. The cooling ducts don't do much for a street car. I bought a ducted spook simply because I like the looks of the ducted one better. Strictly an appearance preference.On the plus side, I've heard that the ducted one is a better choice (aerodynamically) for cars that don't have a rear spoiler.

I can't recall for certain, but I don't think those bolts are normal high grade bolts. I think they have full diameter non-threaded shanks to prevent the caliper from moving under braking loads. If you feel that you need to replace them (probably not necessary if they are in good condition, IMO), I'd strongly recommend only using factory bolts, not generic high grade bolts. The part number is 41250-E4100. Looks like list price is around $2.50 each.

Had to wash my car today before I could take pictures of it. You see, I tend to enjoy driving it so much that it gets driven in the rain now and then. Yes, in the RAIN! Oh, the humanity! Back on topic - I didn't buy any of the DATSUN for myself, so all I have to choose from is the 240-Z...