Arne

I thought I'd bring this thread back to life. I'm shipping a pair of wiper arm nuts to Koalia in Finland today. He needs 'em, can't find any in Finland, and I've got spares I don't need.

If it was local to me, I'd be tempted. My wife might not be too happy though....

When I parted out a rusty Series 1 a couple of years ago, I made just over $3000, and I probably left money on the table from taking shortcuts and pricing things aggressively for quick sale. So this car could probably raise the same or more if parted out. But assuming you don't have the time, space or inclination to part it, I wouldn't think it would be all that hard to sell for $2000 or more as is, even with you being totally up front about the car's needs.

If you can use the '73-76 cylinders, try this: http://classicgarage.com/nid242628rew.html

Nope, didn't keep any off the parts cars, as they were all leaking. I fear that most old ones not in use are not in usable condition.

The key to that is the modern compressor, I suspect.

The two pull knobs are for the factory footwell fresh air vents, not part of the A/C. All 240Zs have those. No idea what the A/C parts might be worth, and they'll be expensive to ship if you can't find a local buyer.

Scott, I'm just down the freeway in the Eugene-area, and I've not found 240Zs to be all that hard to find in Oregon. Are you looking for something special? What are your criteria?

Not unless it is REALLY bad. It's darn hard to detect noisy bearings outside of the car. And bad synchros are pretty much impossible to check without driving it.But if you can get a short warranty with one, you should be able to swap similar transmissions in a short day. I've done it on mine in a couple of hours, tops. So you could just put it in a drive it...

I find this to be VERY interesting! I wonder what the story behind these is?

Yeah, that looks like a tooth off to me, Steve. Could tell for certain if you had a picture of the end of the dizzy drive shaft (dizzy removed), but lacking that, I'd say you know what is needed. I think the reason that this is such a common problem is that the manuals all tell you to line up the index mark as you install the dizzy drive shaft, but they fail to warn you that because the drive gears are helical cut, as the shaft is inserted it spins a bit. I found you need to look at the direction the shaft moves when you insert it, and then back off the index mark one tooth before inserting it.

I've had three different Type A 4 speeds in my cars, and all three have a bit of gear whine in the lower three gears, even after all new bearings. I'd call that fairly normal. It should quiet down a lot in 4th gear.

That's why I still have a spare. They have little value - unless someone like myself happens to be in need. And even then, no one wants to pay to ship one halfway across the country. I figured mine was worth more to me as a spare than it would be worth to ship it somewhere.

That's what I did. I already had a known good spare Type A, so I put it in the car while I rebuilt the original. The original has been back in the car for a couple of years now, and the spare is back in storage again. Allowed me to not be in a hurry to try to get it done so I could drive it. Because I get really antsy when I can't drive my car.

Yes, they certainly are. I agree with both statements, but add the thought that for normal use, he Type A is probably strong enough for a stock L24-powered 240Z. An occasional auto-x or track day isn't going to kill it in short order, although the effects are probably cumulative. Yes and no.It is a simple but fussy job if you have a very clean work environment, a FSM that covers the disassembly/reassembly process, and access to the various pullers and presses you will need. I don't find rebuilding a transmission all that difficult or scary. But many experienced mechanics shy away from them. But even though it is a simple process, there are still plenty of things that can go wrong. I ended up having mine apart twice, due to me not replacing the woodruff keys that locate the drive gear on the countershaft. But once past that, the past two years have been trouble free, and the transmission is still as quiet as any Type A 'box. (That is to say, not all that quiet other than in top gear.)

A Type A 4 speed is easily rebuildable. I've done it to the original in my car, rather than swap to either the spare Type A I have in storage, or a later Type B. Using a Type B in your car will require a modified Type B shift lever, or enlarging the hole in the tunnel, your choice. Side note - while lots of people complain about the feel of the Type A linkage, None of the three I've had felt bad at all.

I fixed Bruce's typo.

I know that some of the usual suspects from NorthWest Z will be attending the Rose Cup Races in Portland instead of Canby. I will be at Canby on Sunday, however.

Several ways to do that. One of the most common is to use a Dremel tool (or similar) to cut a slot in the head and use a screw driver on them. Others have used a hammer and punch, while yet other people will use a drill and drill the heads off.

Dunno. It's the same logic that required the shift pattern to be visible from the driver's seat, and banned glass-covered headlights and non-sealed beam lights. :stupid:

Starting in '77 or '78, the US DOT mandated that henceforth wiper blades and arms must be black in color, and have a flat or matte finish. That was why Nissan changed them.

This is my guess as well.

I'm running Toyo Eclipse 195/70-14 on my car. Not really a "performance" tire at all, but I was looking for something in a stock-height tire that did NOT have a space-age tread design. Eclipses can be difficult to find in many parts of the USA, though. Fairly easy to come by in the Pacific NW and Canada.

I know that one of my cars had those more shapely supports, but I checked and the ones on the red car are straight. So the ones as pictured must have been on my yellow car, which was Series 1 (10/70).

I suspect those are steel, not aluminum. Should still work OK though.