Arne

Sorry, doesn't wash. If you had said, "not for many years" or "not for a long while" instead of "NEVER", I might have been able to strain a bit and buy it. But the use of the absolute ("NEVER") indicates either omniscience or opinion. Since neither you, I, nor any human are omniscient, opinion it must be. Calling it fact doesn't make it so.<hr> Back on topic - regardless of opinions about the present viability of electric cars for daily use, the White Zombi (which I have seen in person) is an interesting example of home-grown engineering and ingenuity. The fact that it started life as a Datsun is almost inconsequential - it could have been built on any number of different chassis. But logically, the choice of a B110 makes sense - it is simple, affordable, light-weight and rear wheel drive. And unlike most purpose-built race cars, the very nature of the electric car is such that the Zombi can be (and frequently is) driven as a daily around-town car. Totally tractable and civilized. The fact is, should electric vehicles ever become more mainstream, it will be in part because of the enthusiasm and innovation of people like John Wayland.

Deep Purple - either Smoke on the Water or Highway Star. Both on the album Machine Head.

I'm THIS close to locking this thread. Let's get back on topic. It was started as a discussion of one particular electric Datsun. Not to say whether electric is the future, whether electric can replace IC, and certainly not about where drilling should be allowed. So if we can get back on topic, this will stay open. First move back into off-topic stuff and I'll close it off.

Converted to images so everyone doesn't have to download them.

Yup.

I could have sworn the Toyota shanks were not the same diameter, but I'll take your word for it, Jon. Please ignore my previous post!

I've never seen the Nissan factory-style mag lug nuts in any other thread in all my years in wheels and tires.

Call them and ask them??

The "tweak and peek" method never works, in my experience. Try this instead - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=301600&postcount=27

My opinion? Bear in mind that I pay other people to do my body and paint work. That said, IMO that car is terminal. I'd part it out and a better one. While truly rust-free are rare, here on the West coast there are lots of better starting points, for not a lot of money. A $1500 car without all the structural roof and pillar rust will be money well spent.

Rust-free 240Zs DO exist, but when you find them, they aren't cheap. I know, I've bought them both ways....

Mine isn't white, Mike, but the 905 red I had done on my car is clear-coated. Seemed like the better way to go at the time.

Unless you can find a buyer who like the exact mods on the car even better than you do.

Since you are replacing the insert anyway, and therefore don't care about damaging the shaft, I'd weld a piece of angle iron across the top of the gland nut to use as a lever.

That was a long time ago - I've forgotten what that is like to have 2 year olds in the house.

Don't know which is worse to have in the house - energetic 2 year olds, or hermit 25 year olds...

Can I recommend/ask that you do these steps one at a time to see which one clears the problem? Last time I had this issue, I replaced the plugs with a fresh set of NGKs and that took care of it.

Yes, I admit that I would prefer a yellow 240Z. But now is NOT a good time for me to pursue that...

You are absolutely correct in your belief that various states have different regulations regarding the formulation of the fuel. Some states even vary the formulation within the state by region. Much of this is EPA-driven depending on air-quality conditions. It sounds as if the formula that Nevada has settled on is not very suitable for hot weather and carburated cars.

So the car is the same month as my red car. Just fewer miles, in theory. The pictures are enough to justify a closer look, if I were really looking for another clean 240.

You will only have two choices with these rims - zero or +15. Zero is the typically recommended offset for a 7" rim on a Z. Indeed, the +15 may sit inboard too far to clear the strut tube. The zero offset should be fine on a lowered car as long as it has a front air dam. If you have the stock valance instead, watch for clearance at the front when turning. The 195/60-15 size is probably a good choice to help minimize this possibility.

This is why you always disconnect the ground cable FIRST. Then there's no chance at all of arcing with the wrench. No need for rubber if you use proper technique.

I too have requested more and better pictures, but no reply at all yet.

The factory positive cable end had (still has, in my case) a rubber insulating cover that you have to peel back to get to the terminal.

MGB and TR-2 through TR-6 all use the same bolt pattern as the S30. There's more info at the importer's website, that specifies the predrilled bolt patterns (including 4-114.3) and offsets (some of which are S30 suitable).http://www.vtowheels.com/retro4.html