Arne

Herman, the most common cause of melted fuseboxes in a 240Z is the lights. From the descripton you gave, as a guess I'd suspect a badly worn combo switch (headlight/wipers). If the wiring harnesses themselves have not yet melted, this can likely be fixed by repairing/replacing the combo switch, replacing the fusebox (if it has melted significantly), and adding relay kit(s) for at least the headlights, and probably for the tail/park lights too. I've been through worse on one of my '71s, so I certainly would not rule out an otherwise nice car just for this reason. If the combo switch needs replacing, or if it turns out that some of the wiring does need replaced, you'll need to know the production date. There are two major variations of '71 models, and the electrical parts are different between the two. Here's a couple of threads that dealt with similar issues for reference. Also, feel free to send me a PM if I can be of more help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19793 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34917

Welcome, Herman. Regarding your search - after going through this myself, I'd recommend getting the best body as you can, with (hopefully) decent wiring. Don't get too worked up about the drivetrain, as long as it is reasonably intact. Used engines and transmissions are not hard to come by. Body is most important. What year (or even better, production date) is the one with the bad wiring? Transplanting the wiring from a different car of similar vintage is a moderate pain, but can be done once you locate someone parting out a similar car.

Yeah, especially split duals like yours, on cars where you don't expect to see dual exhaust. Too bad it requires so much modification to do it on a Z - props to you for going the extra mile there.I've seen this in the past on some of my own cars. In both of the examples below, if someone comments about the car (or commented, in the case of the long-sold BMW), 3 times out of 4 it was about the exhaust. The BMW was factory - the 323i was the euro top-end model of the 3-series (2.3 L inline six, 4 wheel disc) and came with factory dual exhaust. On the Golf TDI (diesel) I converted to the GTI dual exhaust. Changed the whole look of the rear of the car.

Since the OP is in England, it's worth noting that his car won't have #5 unless it is a LHD US model.

OK, I'll bite. More info? Where in Oregon? Pictures of your car? Come on, throw us a bone here! Oh yeah, welcome!

My info was that the old Clifford system as sold through Datsun Comp was apparently 1 3/4" tubing. Certainly no more than 2". My recollection is that MSA's system is 2" as well, but I can't remember where I saw that.

They cut them off because they don't want to mess with the wheel bearings. If you are doing wheel bearings at the same time, they are an easy bolt-on part.

True. But you have to split the flanges and replace the rear wheel bearings to replace them.If you do decide to replace the backing plates, I'd consider using the plates from a later S30, as rear wheel cylinders for the later cars ('72-78) are more affordable, and easier to come by.

Hmm, I suppose something could "happen" to your post.... nah, that wouldn't be right.

The "before" wheels are/are American Racing Vectors (aka "Dukes of Hazzard" wheels). The "after" wheels are Konig Rewinds.

Look like 15" to me.

Very pretty! It's unfortunate that we are on opposite sides of the country - I'll never get to see it in person, I suspect...

One of the many reasons that about all I ever watch on TV is sports. Most of the rest is total and utter cr@p.

Replaced the tail light gaskets and steering coupler today. Coming soon—rack mount bushings and inner tie rod boots.

In the USA, the 5 speed was an option for '77 and 78. Four speed was still standard.

Randy, I believe the "Guard rubber" is the right stuff. MSA Part #32-2060.

I don't know that either of those two examples are good candidates, because they are still available new from Nissan.

Yup. That blue interior is just as "70s" as is 918 orange. Looking really good!

Yes, homo sapiens as a species is probably doomed, because "survival of the fittest" has failed. Our technology and civilization has allowed and is allowing the stupid to reproduce faster than their own stupidity is killing them off.Seriously, my thoughts and prayers go out to all those affected in Japan - both those few I know personally, and also to the many multitudes I will never meet.

My favorite Series 1 colors are 918 orange, 919 yellow and 920 gold because those particular tints are not common these days. I'm less excited the colors that are still in general use on new cars, like 901 silver, 903 blue, 904 white, 905 red and 907 green. But that's just me. Any of those colors are proper for an early car, and any were available with black interior in the USA. So that's eight different but proper colors to choose from, even if you prefer to stay with a factory color.

If it is indeed coming from between the engine and transmission, my experience is that sudden, large leaks are seldom the rear main seal. I'd think it is just as likely to be the input seal on the transmission. Is the oil level low in the engine?

Wrong answer. That is for Type B transmissions, not Type A. The Type A linkage is totally different and this solution does not apply.

Jim's car was originally 918 as well, so he was careful to make certain the new paint was a close match.

The only place you are likely to find specialized little bits like that will be a Nissan dealer, assuming that they are still available.

a7dz painted this car himself a couple years ago. Probably still has the formula. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=31254&ppuser=8596