Arne

From what I have read, I'd consider trying to find a P90 head from a 280ZX turbo instead of the N42. It seems to have a better, more modern combustion chamber design, and still has the "better" square exhaust ports. It might be a better starting point for a project like this.

I'm not sure I want to deal with parts supplier issues, but I'd consider making some up if the getting parts wasn't too much of a pain. I'd rather start with Dave's plans though, rather that have to engineer them from scratch.

Have you looked into the PCV system?

The front and rears are separate contacts in the column switch, so that definitely could be your problem.

No, you're right, doing that on a head to hold the valve seats in is a very bad idea. And I'm sure that increased performance was not the goal - whoever did it just didn't want the valve seats to fall out.

I'm willing to bet that was someone's (rather silly) way of "staking" the valve seat, to hold it in place. Perhaps the seats were replaced, and the machine shop blew it ever so slightly when they cut the head for the new seats?

A used clutch master cylinder is false economy. Brand new ones are relatively cheap - I can buy one locally (no shipping costs) for about $40. Why take a chance on a used one for that?

Centerline's are forged, and way light-weight. (I was able to tour their factory in the late '90s, as part of my job. Toured American Racing, Ultra and Boyd's on the same junket.) If function was at the top of my needs, Centerline would be a prime choice. But if you desire a "period" look as well, the Ansens may be the ticket.

I thought you could see it better in this shot, but you can only see the very top of the plate (it's black with an aluminum border). It is low down on the strut tower, and I circled it in red.

For max performance - change to early SUs for street, or possibly side-draft Webers for track. For emissions legality (if required) - change back to injection. If it runs good enough for your purposes now, leave well-enough alone. Those Webers may not be the best carbs, if it ain't broke...

E-mail sent.

Too bad you didn't swing by Oregon on your way home - I've got a hatch I'd give you for free. Not great, but sounds better than the one you have. Probably not worth shipping, though.

Yeah, the 205/50-17 is probably a better size for 7" wide wheels.

Depends on what effect you are looking for. The closest 17" size in overall diameter to the original 14" is actually 225/45-17. But these days many people don't want tires as tall as the stock 14" - one of the more popular 15" choices is 225/50-15, which is significantly shorter than the original.

Oversized pictures are almost always t he culprit. Various Mozilla products have an option to automatically scale images to fit the screen, which is likely why Firefox users don't see this often.

For a street car, there's no reason that a P79 head on an F54 block won't be worthwhile. The exhaust port difference isn't going to make much difference without a lot of other mods to go with.

Don't know why not. I was able to contact him eventually (by phone), and bought some stuff from him. It arrived promptly. There were a couple problems, which he corrected immediately. I have since visited his place in person, and bought a replacement (early vented) hatch from him as well.I found him to be honest, easy to deal with, and affordable. You have to use caution with any new vendor, but if they do what they say, and fix any problems, what more can you ask for?

A voltage regulator should be easy to find at any normal parts house, as well. I wouldn't buy something like that off eBay unless I was absolutely certain that it was the right one. And since the seller doesn't seem to know for certain, there's no way for you to know either.

Oh man, I want a NOS set of taillights, too!

Is the factory wiring fused? Already hot? Is there anything else I'd need to do to use it? I have the new wiring fused and connected through a relay, I'd want the factory wiring to be similar.

Fired it up again today, and ran it for a short while. It's running quite rich, I'm probably going to have to reset everything and start from scratch. But the simplicity of the SUs will make that much simpler than trying to deal with a botched injection installation. Very happy with it so far. And to recap, my earlier long post about what was needed was pretty accurate. I apparently had all the issues identified before I started.

Perhaps, although I didn't see any sign of it when I was under there. No matter, at least for now my new pump is mounted on the inner fender just above the voltage regulator. Seems to work just fine there.

Yes, except the '70-72 240Z's didn't come with an electric pump at all, so there is no wiring or mounting points back there. Everything has to be done custom. Much cleaner in my case to mount the pump up front where the wiring can be done neatly.

I doubt it, since all 280Z's were injected. You may have to try to adapt a late 260Z console if you really want the choke mounted there.

I suspected as much. I think that a whole lot of the new parts on eBay are simply ordered from the dealer (or other supplier) and then resold at a higher price. For example I noticed that '70-71 choke knobs open for $8.50 plus shipping on eBay, yet the same knob is $5.45 from MSA.