Arne

Gotta be rear drive offset. You need to find wheels from a Z, old rear drive Celica, early rear drive 810/Maxima, etc. No wheels from any front drive car will work.

Yes, complement is a better description than supplement. Thanks for the correction.

More than you might think. If the throttles are closed, the engine can't suck as much air. Creates a vacuum in the manifolds, so the cylinders aren't starting the compression stroke with air at atmospheric pressure. So the numbers are artificially low. Not a huge issue, as you are often looking more for delta (difference between cylinders), which should still be fairly valid.

Airbags are designed as a supplement to the seat belts, designed to save people who can't be bothered to use the belts. The belts alone - when worn and adjusted properly - will do a good job keeping you out of the windshield and steering wheel. So if you are wearing the seatbelts in your Z, and they are in decent shape, don't worry about the lack of airbags. That said, modern cars have a lot of passive safety (crumple zones, etc.) built in. Things that were basically unheard of in the 60's and 70's. So the Z can't be as survivable as a modern car. But I won't let that stop me from driving and enjoying my Z when it's finished, anymore than I let it stop me from riding my motorcycle. It's life - there are risks...

True. While it apparently isn't the car it is claimed to be, taken as is, and with eyes open, it could still be neat car to have. But I agree, not many people around here would be willing to pay the asking price.

Yup, Ed's procedure is the way I was taught to do it decades ago. Done that way, I would like to see numbers between 170-180 psi or so, and a spread of 5-10 psi from high to low. Differences of less than 5 psi are within the limits of measurement unless you have a very high-dollar compression gauge, so you can easily round to the nearest 5. (My L28 was 180-175-180-180-180-175.) Done your way (other plugs in, and throttle closed) your numbers sound decent, nothing to be concerned with at this point, I'd say.

I suspect I'll end up with the updated one from MSA in mine.

Stage 3 sounds like a lot of cam for EFI, maybe even too much for SUs. I'd ask the cam grinder what they recommend for use with that cam.

No, Nissan never offered limited slip diffs in the 240/260/280Z's. (Posi-traction is GM-speak for limited slip.) I've read that some Subaru diffs with limited slip can be made to fit, but know nothing about what might be needed to do this, or what gearing choices are available.

My '71 appears to have the original door panels still on it. Grab handle only on the passenger side, and no holes in the driver's side panel, either.

Sent an e-mail to Too Intense asking if there were any plans to reproduce the chrome center trim strip to go with these lenses. Their answer makes me wonder what planet they are on:

Depends on how good you are at properly tuning SUs. If you know what you are doing, the SUs may give more options and a bit more power (with the proper needles, cams, etc.). Otherwise the injection might be the ticket.

Yeah, '70 and early '71 (like all of the cars owned in this thread so far) generally have the long pigtail fusebox. Late '71-73 had the short pigtail box.

Stock fuel injection doesn't respond well to cams with a lot of overlap. Milder cams will work better with injection.

Noise may simply be loose valve adjustment. Look for the block and head casting numbers to get a rough idea of the age of the engine.The block casting number is on the intake side, down low on the side of the block just above the oil pan, and behind the engine mount. Common L28 casting numbers would be N42 (early) and F54 (late). The head casting number is on the spark plug side, between cylinders 1 & 2, right where the head meets the block. A non-turbo L28 could have come with N42, N47 or P79.

I understood that ALL 240Zs got the amber bottoms, except the US versions. Unfortunately for the rest of the world, The US versions vastly outnumbered the non-US cars, making non-US parts scarce at times.

I agree. That car needs an owner that will drive it, not leave it parked in a garage. What a cool vintage racer!

The car is in the UK. Auction #4592398396

You are supposed to re-use your existing chrome trims. That makes them not that great a deal for me, the the chrome trim is the part that's bad on mine. You can per-order either style at the following page, scroll down about half-way:http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo4.html And here is the JDM/Euro/Aussie style: Large picture: http://www.datsunrestore.com/images/240Zeurob.jpg

I figured that there had to be someone out there replating that stuff. My left side is intact enough to replate, so all I need now is an intact right side trim to match it. But finding a cracked or broken right side light that still has the trim in one piece shouldn't be TOO hard - I hope. (Not that my car is anywhere near ready for me to be worrying about the tail light trim yet. :classic: )

An excellent start. But the part that everyone needs is the chrome trim. My lenses are OK, just need polishing. But the chrome trim is shot. Who is going to do that? Edit - They have the JDM/Euro style lenses on their web site as well. Add $10 for amber bottoms.

Well, I am definitely leaning towards gearing up to build a batch of these harnesses. Keep watching this space for updates, and tentative prices.

You might try visiting an exhaust shop, I know they have plugs for oxygen sensor ports, they may have plugs for the EGR port as well. Or, you could hunt down an EGR tube that fits the manifold, and then cut it off and plug it. Thats what I did on mine. Eventually I will buy a round port header for mine, which will solve all the issues.

A good service manual will tell you, but the basics for block wear are to measure the bore with an internal micrometer. More important is to measure the bore size at both top and bottom and compare the two. The difference is called taper, and the amount of taper that is allowed should also be in the manual. The bores also wear more from side to side, and less front to rear. So measuring how oval the bore is can be important as well. Pistons wear on their skirts primarily, although the ring grooves can wear as well. Piston pins can wear too. But to do these checks you have to wait and tear down the engine first. Considering that you know you are getting oil past the rings, at this point I'd recommend pulling the engine, and then completely disassemble it to measure for wear. The chances that new rings and bearings alone will fix it aren't all that good. Time for a good service manual, and maybe a reference book on rebuilding an L-series engine.

Before you buy your parts, you need to measure the wear on the bores and pistons, if you haven't already. If the cylinder bores have more than .005" taper, or have a good sized ridge worn at the top, you should have it bored oversize and replace the pistons as well. I've been in this situation before, and would never buy the parts ahead of time. That's a sure recipe for getting the wrong parts.