Arne

Oh, you're talking about the side markers, not turn signals. Your terminology had me confused.

Only reason to replace the flywheel would be if it is bad, or if you want a lighter one. Otherwise I'd just have it resurfaced. If you want a lighter flywheel, try to find a used one from a 810/Maxima. It's about 6 pounds lighter, I've heard. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#Flywheel

While I have no idea what it takes to do it, the attached picture proves that no light or valance changes are needed.

At first glance it looked to me as if they had re-machined the lip, not simply polished it. After another look, I'm not so sure. If the lip is the machine finish, $110 per doesn't sound bad. But as you noted Ron, if it's simply polished that seems a bit steep.

Sounds reasonable, as long as you weren't into the wheels themselves very deep (as you indicated). Because they look like new. Anyone recall if original Libres were available in 15x6? (For TR6, most likely.) Because I'd love to have Libres, but would prefer to run a more modern tire size.

I haven't worked on this part of my car yet. Is the receiver plate captive? Does it move at all?

And here in the US, it's different, yes. The Dept. of Transportation (DOT) specifies that the front parking lights and turn signals can be either white or amber lighting. The amber lighting can be provided by either amber lenses, or clear lenses with an amber bulb. Therefore the parking and turn signal function can be provided by a single dual filament bulb, unlike pretty much the entire rest of the world. The rear turn signals can be either red or amber. In the case of amber, again amber bulbs/clear lenses are approved, but for red only red lenses can be used, not red bulbs. Individual states can have stricter rules, but not less restrictive.

I'm impressed! How much per wheel did it cost for that first class restoration?

Odd. That sure sounds like my setup, which works fine. I guess it might be time to swap in the later tach. Wish I could help on that.

I had understood that all new emblems from Nissan these days were plastic.

Some more questions, Rick. 1.) I assume that the car is running OK, just no tach? 2.) On the ZX coil - you should have a wire from each terminal of the coil going to the twin terminal connector on the distributor box, and the other black/white wire connected to the + terminal of the coil. So two wires on the + and only one on the - terminal. All sound right?

I'm a little perplexed on this, Rick. I have the same '83 ignition on my 10/70 240Z with 4 wire tach, and it works fine. How do you have the coil wired?

I'd love to, but at this point we have reached the limits of my knowledge on this. Anything I could offer from here would be pure speculation on my part, so I'd rather wait and hope that someone who has done this weighs in instead.I do think that the front can be installed without changing the valance and turn signals, however. At least, I'm certain that I have seen cars with the small bumpers on them with the later valances.

Not so much bodywork, but there are no brackets that are pre-made for bumper retro-fitting. You will have to custom fabricate the brackets. It can be done, it's just more work.

Well, thanks for the compliments! Although I must say that judging from the pictures in your gallery, your car's body is in much better shape than mine is. Anyway, I'm glad you've enjoyed my car's story so far.

Hmm, all bets are off for cars originally delivered in Europe. I don't know for sure, but I was under the impression that Europe (along with the UK, Oz and Japan) never got the later 280Z body. They did have the signals in the grill, but other than that I think they had the earlier shell. On the other hand, if it was originally a US car that was imported later, the above post is correct, and the same issues apply to the 240Z bumpers as well.

It must be removed from the oil pump side, can not be removed from the top.

You're welcome. Some day I may get around to doing this type of things for others. But I should have believed you when you talked about how much time it takes. I'd like to do things like this, but right now I need to spend more time on my car. My goal is to have it finished in 18-21 months. We'll see...

Here it is, cropped and converted to a GIF, which retains the color. Really small now, about 11 KB.

I've got lots of bandwidth, send it to me and I'll convert it. I'll PM you with the address.

The Canon manifold adapters bolted up to the original SU manifolds. So once you remove the Webers and manifold adapters, you should be able to bolt up the SUs very easily. Looking at your pictures, you should be able to use the existing fuel rail, although new fuel lines may be needed. The linkage for the Webers on the manifold would need to be swapped for the appropriate Datsun parts. You will also need the insulator blocks for the SUs. Since the base manifold is a '73, the easiest swap would be SUs from a '72, since they are fitted for the water passages that your manifold has. If the coolant to the manifold has been removed already (or you would consider doing so for the swap), the '70-71 SUs will go on just as simply.

I do perform all my own mechanical work, and I'll second Enrique's comments above. While it is possible (but still subject to debate) that the Webers - if properly set up and tuned - MIGHT deliver more performance, the sad fact is that they are far more complex that the SUs, and getting them to run optimally takes a specialist who really knows how to tune them. On the other hand, SUs are a very simple device, with a very limited number of variables. While I don't have a clue where to start on properly jetting a pair of Webers, I totally understand the theory and operation of the SUs, which means I can set them up and tune them myself. My car had a hack-job '83 fuel injection on it when I bought it. The person who installed it messed it all up badly. I either had to redo their job, or go back to carbs. If I went to carbs, I could install anything I wanted. After looking to ease of install, tuning and future maintenance, I went back to the original SUs. While my car isn't on the road yet, I'm still happy with that decision.

I can't find it right now, but I recall reading a post from someone who bought one. The VB kit is somewhat generic, and apparently lists lots of Toyota applications on the package, not Nissan. Seems to me that it wasn't long enough for one thing, and required a fair amount of tinkering to get it to fit. I think it worked OK once it was done, though.

From the press release:" It was created by Nissan Design America, Inc., La Jolla, Calif."

1.) Ralph Schultz in Methuselah's Children 2.) Not sure. Sounds like something Jubal Harshaw could have said in Stranger in a Strange Land 3.) Lazarus Long (W. W. Smith) in Time Enough for Love