Arne

Appliance Industries. What we used to call single wire baskets. They use an odd and proprietary lug nut system that is probably no longer available. In fact, finding any replacement parts for those wheels will be very difficult, as Appliance stopped making them at least 20 years ago, and went bankrupt around 1990 or so. You should also know that those of us who had to work on tires and wheels for a living in the '80s despised those wheels, as they were especially prone to causing steering wheel vibrations (shimmy) due to the odd lug system, especially on German Capris and Z-cars.

OK, being dense here. What's a BOV and why do you want it to flutter?

I've used Redline in diffs and transmissions for years, both cars and bikes. I've never had any change in fluid level unless I had an obvious leak.I'm guessing that the synthetic has less surface tension, and that it didn't evaporate, but it actually soaked into the concrete. I have seen that happen before.

The time has come to buy a FSM for my early '71 Z. I've been getting by so far, but as I get deeper into it I know that I must have one. But I want to make sure I get what I need. (Ordering the parts CD today from Mike, also.) I know that the originals for the early cars came in at least two volumes - Engine and Body/Chassis. The reprints seem to combine these into a single volume. Is it still all there? I'm not fussy about whether or not my FSM is 'original', a reprint will do just fine - as long as it has the same content in it. Anyone out there compared the original and reprints? And if the reprint is OK, are there any better places to get one than from MSA?

My Z isn't to that point yet, but I use synthetic in all my other vehicles. Mobil 1 in the engines, Redline in transmissions and diffs. The Z will eventually be treated the same.

OK, I was wrong. The seat mounted hooks on my car (10/70) are black plastic, not vinyl covered metal.

I certainly wouldn't be averse to hydraulic lifters for my L28. Less maintenance = more time to drive. (As if my car was ready to drive!)

For normal street driving, rubber bushings do an adequate job if they're reasonably fresh.

You might also look into a Wheelskins brand leather cover. They are semi-custom fit by the diameter of the wheel and of the grip. I used one years ago on the factory (very skinny) rim of my MGB wheel, and it was a nice improvement. Makes the grip a bit bigger without any permanent modifications.

Wow. Very hard to pin down. The right fender has either a 260Z or 280Z emblem, not the 240Z's Datsun emblem. It would be very interesting to know if the number plates (dash and door jamb) match the firewall stamping.

Unbolt and remove it? It's pretty simple, what problem are you having?

I used SEM dye on an old Chevy pickup I had, dyed the dash pad as well as the door panels. Still looked great when I sold the truck 8 years later. SEM is a great product. Just like any paint, surface prep is the key, don't scrimp and try to do it without using the SEM vinyl prep.

Gonna have to look at that this weekend, but from memory, the hooks in my 10/70 car are:a.) on the seat, not the B pillar; and b.) vinyl-covered metal, not plastic. I'm pretty certain my seats are original, but I'll try to look for a date code on them (if any) to be sure.

I am also planning this swap for later in the spring. But what I read was that they are the same length. There may be differences between real early cars (like mine) and later 240Z's (where the diff was relocated back some), but I don't think the driveshafts differ from auto to manual for the same year cars.

I don't really know, since I only have experience with the early cars.

That's what I thought. In that case, the mounting holes for the tow hooks are similar to the mounts for the early bumpers. You won't be able to use the factory brackets, but it should be easy to build something similar.You can see the bumper mounts in the picture of my car in the link below: http://home.comcast.net/~e21graymarket/240z/picframes/s30rear.html

Chris, are you sure about the 8/70 cutoff date for the seat mounted hooks? Or was there more than one style of seat mounted hook? Because the seats in my 10/70 car have hooks on the seat backs too.

If I'm orienting the picture correctly, you should be able to fabricate some brackets that use those mounting points, yes.

Correct. The '79-80 280ZX all had the N42 block with dished pistons. The '81-83 280ZX all had the F54 block, dished pistons on the turbo, and flat topped pistons on the non-turbo.When I talked about the price seeming high to me, yes, you do have to take into account the supply in your locale. Obviously you don't want to pay to ship one, and if that's a good price where you are, go for it.

That sounds a bit high for what is essentially a core, at least compared to the prices I see around these parts. (And then there's the issue of it sitting unused for 6-7 years. Is it rusty inside?) I've seen several fairly complete ZX mills around here (Oregon) for $45-75 each. Might not be quite as good in some ways, but if you're just going to rebuild it any way...??

Yup. See below, but that doesn't affect the headrests. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19989

No emissions testing at all in my part of Oregon, but I will retain my evap tank unless it fails catastrophically. If Nissan could make them vapor-tight when they were new, I can do it now (with new hoses, clamps, etc.).

Wimp. I will drive mine down when I do it. Probably about 9:00 AM Saturday morning. If I just idle it around it won't be too loud.

Since shipping wheels is expensive, you want to find someone local. I know that there are several polishers in the Eugene area, probably several near Salem as well. Talk to the wheel people at a local tire shop - they'll know who does it in your area.

I'd just start walking through parking lots, car lots and wrecking yards until you see what you like. Going flush will likely require cutting and/or welding, but there's got to be something that will look right to you out there.