Arne

The 240Z headlights work by switching the ground, not the power supply. So you have something grounding the wiring somewhere in the switch or it's connections. When the headlights come on with the switch, do they come on high beam, or low beam? (Or, heaven forbid, both?)

No, this is a good question. In my experience the 280ZX pulley should work fine, no need to swap it. You might need a new or different belt, but that should be all. If you've got any local wrecking yards that will guarantee their parts, you should be able to grab and go.

Just to clarify - these adapters are for 240Z's wishing to use the '81-83 internally regulated 280ZX alternator. Later 260 and 280Z's are not supposed to need these. Other Nissan alternators may work as well, but I can't confirm that.

At this time, probably as ordered. Depends somewhat on the demand.

The alternator adapter plugs are going to be available after all! See details in this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20571

Good news in several ways! I've hooked up with a source that will make the "Plug-N-Play 240Z Alternator Upgrade Adapter" to my specs. And the production version is frankly better in many ways than I had hoped. 1.) It is now the small, weather-resistant and self-contained unit I had originally envisioned. (See pictures below.) 2.) It is made with a factory-style connector, and new brass terminals. The necessary diode is self-contained. 3.) Better yet, the final version is cheaper than I had thought it could be made. The final price is $15.00 each, INCLUDING postage within the US. Contact me for shipping outside the US. A small volume discount is available for quantities of 10 or more. Contact me for that as well. So here's the scoop - I can only do this via money orders at this time. PM me for the address to mail it to. Figure 7-10 days turn-around (plus first class mail delivery) once I receive payment. Here are the pictures, and the instructions. (Instructions will not be printed and shipped with the adapter, to hold down on costs. Please download it here instead.) The alternators that I know for a fact will work are from '81-83 280ZX, both turbo (70 amp) and non-turbo (60 amp). I've been told that other Nissan alternators may work as well (Maxima, etc.) but can't verify that. 240Z to 280ZX alternator.pdf

You have to remove the nuts. WARNING!! One of those wires goes straight to the battery. Make certain you have disconnected the battery before you start.

You could simply add foglights as is, but I think you'd be defeating the purpose of the parking light relay. The idea of the relay kit is to make MORE power available for the parking lights. If you then put more lights on the same circuit, they draw through the same relay and fuse as do the parking lights. It would be better to use another fuse and relay for any additional lights that you may add.

Hmm, maybe not. Here's one that is cheap, closes really soon, and has no bids.Metal fan and clutch on eBay

Thanks, guys. Sounds like the problem is real, even for a street car. I will use a plastic fan instead.

Is running the early metal cooling fan on a daily driver really a bad thing? I seem to have heard that it is hard on water pumps. Is it all that bad though for a daily driver? Or is it only a problem for sustained high RPM use?

Looks like a gold Panasport to me.

Probably won't pass the visual inspection in CA, even if the sniff test is within limits. Are there any Z headers with CARB exemption stickers?

I installed similar boxes in my cars back in the '70's. Yeah, they work. Shouldn't require too much in the way of wiring mods, IIRC. Never cared for the add-on look, even back then. I'll probably either use Rain-X or PIAA wiper blades (which have a Rain-X like coating on the blade) on my 240Z.

There is no easy way to do this on tubeless wheels, as they have a safety hump that holds the tire bead in place. It takes a lot of pressure to stretch the tire over that hump. I'm afraid you'll have to pay to have them removed. Sorry.

Not to totally disagree with Mr. Smith, but numerous years of doing brake and suspension work leads me to say that springs do sag when they get old. If they didn't, why would the manufacturer bother to give us the specs to compare against? Trust me, springs can get old. You don't mention what year Z you have, but something else to consider is that it is not at all unusual for a US-spec 240Z to sit a touch higher in front. This 'nose-high' attitude was corrected with the 260Z and later. 240Zs for other markets did not see this as much. I have read that the 'nose-high' attitude of the US 240's was one of the sources for the recurring complaints in the US about high speed stability. Most people addressed this with a front spoiler (like a spook), but a spring change to get the nose down a touch could also fix it.

My FSM for '71 says to just remove the lever. Should be plenty of room.

Can you weigh one for us?

Nice in theory, but the AutoZone wiring diagrams are pretty poor, and don't show everything. In particular, I don't see any wiring for automatics at all, and they don't show the reverse switch either. Someone with an FSM is going to have to help on this, I think.

Well... reverse light switch for the first two. As for the rest, I'm betting they are emissions-related. Some cars back then had switches that would change the ignition advance/retard behavior when they were in 4th or 5th gear. Just a guess...

Yeah, in the US only the Series I Zeds had different keys ignition and locks. All the later cars had all locks keyed alike. Not so in other markets, apparently.

Be aware that back in the '70s, if a tire was built that was not intended for the US market, the DOT number may not exist at all. I've seen a few tires on privately imported cars (many years ago) that way.

Here is what it would have been stock:

No. The date code will be the last three numbers of the DOT number. It will be on only one side of the tire and will be in the format "DOT XXX XXXX 123". The three number code is simple - first two digits are the week, the final one is the year. So my bogus number above would be built in the twelfth week of 19x3. (At the turn of the century they went a four digit code so that the year could be two digits.) So if one of these Bridgestones said '061' it would be the sixth week of 1971.