Arne

Buzzer comes on with the high beams? You've got some wires plugged into the wrong stuff somehow in the headlight switch and ignition switch. I'd disconnect everything and start over. Compare what you have with a wiring diagram for a '73 to verify which plugs into what. Remember that in many cases, the wire colors may not match.

I agree with most of Will's comments, with the addition that those Appliance wires - unlike Tru-Spokes - are tubeless. The spokes attach to a retainer that was welded to the inner drop of the rim. So the spokes do not go into the air chamber at all. It was a superior design for aftermarket wires in the day. But re-chroming them will still be a b_tch.

Those are old Appliance Industries wire wheels. They could have been dealer installed when the car was new (they are the right age), but they weren't factory approved in any way, shape or form. The dealer in question would have purchased them from a local distributor.

Should also make Mercedes and BMW do a bit of thinking as well.

I guess I should close this thread out. Replacing the dash harness assembly has fixed my electrical problems. I'm moving on to other things now.

I'd use the extra fuse for the rear defroster, and get rid of the inline fuse for that device.

Not sure about California, but here in Oregon I believe it is ALWAYS illegal to pass on the right. Period. But, the person in the Acura who "yielded" to you so you can make a left turn was wrong to do so, and technically you were in the wrong to make that turn while there was oncoming traffic of any kind - even if they waved you on. So as I see it, probably all three drivers were technically at fault.

I've heard that it was connected somehow to the injection computer on some cars, but can't confirm that. Might be good to have someone who owns an '81-83 ZX look at theirs and see if it is used on the original.My 240Z had the '83 injection on it when I bought it, and that port was still unused. But there's no guarantee that my car's injection was connected correctly, judging from what I found when I went back to carbs, and from the fact that the "installer's" answer to the lack of diode after the alternator swap was to wire a separate toggle switch. That ham-fisted approach to the alternator swap was the direct inspiration for this adapter plug.

Fuel rail?

Here is a summary of answers to some of the questions I have received this week: 1.) The two alternators that I know work are the units from '81-83 280ZX, both turbo and NA. The turbo is a 70 amp unit, the NA is 60 amps. Other Nissan alternators may work as well, but I can not confirm that. Use others at your own risk. (But if you find something else that does work, let me know.) 2.) This is totally plug and play, NO cutting or modification to your car's wiring harness is needed. 3.) As best I can determine, the stock length belt should work fine. That's not to say that there can't be a few alternators out there with a slightly different pulley size, but I haven't heard of one yet. Even if so, the stock belt width is fine, all you'd need would be to get the next size smaller or longer belt. 4.) At least one person was having problems downloading the instructions from the forum. An alternate site is Alternator swap instructions.

No, completely different type of rotor mounting. You need a rotor designed to be on the rear to fit on the stub axle.

Yeah, I'm surprised too. I expected a significantly higher price.

Probably a Western. I think that's what Beandip has on his car.

My car will end up with a 3 row radiator, no A/C and will be driven here in the mild Western Oregon climate. With a three row radiator, I shouldn't think I'll need the shroud. So a 260/280Z fan should be OK for me.

Never done a Mini, but the least fun I ever had doing a water pump was a G60 Corrado. Took a day and a half, and the "proper" procedure includes removing the alternator, supercharger and A/C compressor - so reclaiming the refrigerant and evacuating the system are supposed to be part of the water pump job. I did not open the A/C lines, which added several hours to the time.

I've heard the ZX fans (79-83) are a different thickness, and don't fit in S30s. But I would think that the 74-78 fan should still fit my '71. Just wish I knew for certain before I start looking for used ones.

Are all the plastic fans interchangeable? Can I use one from a 260 or 280Z? Or do I need to get one for a '72 240Z?

As I said, Dave, those boxes do work. Or at least they did in my past, so I assume they will today. I wouldn't think connecting them to a 240Z would be hard, although on my Series I the wiper parking routine might be an issue. Don't know if your '72 is any different.

I'd still be interested in finding out how heavy (or light) they are.

Since there's bound to be other things on my car that won't be stock when I finish it, I don't think competing in a stock class will be anything I need to worry about. But it's a good thing to remember.

Another common mod that eats more amps than stock is electronic ignition. And the internal voltage regulator in the ZX alternator is more reliable, and delivers a better regulated voltage than the stock points-type regulator. It's just a better system. But even better is that the alternator swap is totally reversible. Going to show the car and want to look stock for a weekend? You can restore it back to factory in 15 minutes or so.

Looks like it has potential, although the original engine and transmission are apparently long gone. #4633 on eBay

Garth is right, the alternator upgrade is a totally separate issue. The ZX alternator will help recharge your battery faster, and can produce more amps in normal driving. The internal regulator is more accurate and reliable as well. But it doesn't address the issues that Dave's harnesses do.

See details here: Thread in Parts Swapping

Thanks for the kind words, Dave. Your help and support during the trek to get here has been invaluable. These parts wouldn't be available today without your help.