Arne

It is true that the electric pumps push better than they pull. But mine seems to work OK pulling, and it was much easier to wire, route fuel lines and mount up front on the head. Wiring the relay - any normally open automotive relay will work. Same as you'd use for pair of fog lights. I didn't splice any of the factory wiring. The relay has four terminals - one is the ground, one is the power supply (goes to the positive battery terminal with an inline fuse), one is the hot lead to the pump, and the last is the trigger wire which I ran over to the coil and tapped into the positive lead there. When ever the ignition is switched on, the relay is energized by the trigger and sends battery power to the pump. There are several ways to wire the safety switch. You could use a second relay, but the most elegant way would be to connect the ground wire from the fuel pump relay to an additional oil pressure sender designed for an idiot light. Might take a touch of experimenting to get it right, but it would be simple and reliable.

Yup, they are shown there, on the lower left of page 63. Mentioned in the caption as well. Looks the same as in mine. His car (assuming that is his in the pictures) is #3547. Mine has them as well (#12746). Mine originated in Montana, not that it should matter.

Is modifying the P79 head worth it? No.The reason is that wiring an aftermarket electric pump is simple. The factory wiring can be used if you are planning to mount your pump in the back near the tank. The existing wiring is not connected to anything at either end. The other end is located in the wiring under the dash somewhere. On the other hand, I mounted an inexpensive 4.5 psi pump on the side of my P79 head, right where the mechanical pump would be. That simplifies all the fuel lines. I have a relay that is triggered from the lead from the ignition switch to the coil, that routes power from the battery to the pump. Very simple. As a final safety precaution, it is advisable to wire a circuit that cuts power to the pump when the oil pressure drops. This is to prevent fuel spills and fires in event of an accident. I haven't done this yet, but will before I get my car back on the road.

Welcome! Your car and mine came off the line relatively closely. Mine is 12746, also 10/70 build. Same color as well.

My series 1 hatch trim panel has screws as well, four of them, I believe. On the other hand, my car came to me with a 280Z hatch on it, and I don't know the VIN of the car that my series 1 hatch came off of. The donor car was orange...

Yes. The door itself (and consequently the glass as well) is longer on the 2+2 - about 4-6" as I recall. None of the door parts other than a few of the latch pieces are interchangable between coupes and 2+2s.

MSA lists repros in their catalog, no idea how good or if they're really in stock. If they do have them and you get one, please post back as I'd love to hear what you think of it.

From a 2+2? The doors (and windows) are longer on 2+2's, won't fit a coupe.

My car is a late series 1 (#12746, 10/70) which appears to have all its original interior trim. My car does have the chrome Phillips head screws on the door panel, but does not have the plastic scuff plates on the seat cushions.

You have a worn or mis-adjusted reverse switch on the transmission.

The Porsche that won the 1970-1980 import class is a 356. They stopped making those in the mid-sixties. He was in the wrong class. You should have won.

Crank-fire ignition?? No distributor!

For what it's worth, I never give my cores to the parts store at the time I pick up the parts, for this exact reason. You should be able to pay the core charge up front and get it refunded to you when you later return the core.

I've got a roll of teflon tape that is yellowish in color, and is supposed to be good for sealing petroleum products (oil, gas, etc.).

As far as I know, no. Sounds to me as if NAPA got you the wrong unit. Probably mis-boxed by their supplier. Have you already returned your core? If not, you can show them the difference so that they will believe you and get another unit.

I want to give a big "Thank you" to all of you who have supported this project. So far, just over 40 adapters have been sold, with pending orders for another 20. The vast majority have been to members of this club, even though I did advertise them on other sites as well. The truth is that at this price, neither I nor the person who builds them are making a lot of money on them. But that wasn't really the point. It is gratifying to offer a part to the Z community that I thought might fill a need. The orders and sales so far show that I was at least somewhat correct. Thanks to you all!

F54 blocks are reputed to be stronger and more rigid. The N47 head will give much higher compression (around 10.5:1 or so), although the combustion chamber shape may not be as efficient.

That set has been posted there since mid-February. The seller has turned down or ignored four offers so far. Apparently most people feel like I do - there a bit too rough for the price. Just my opinion, of course.

Another thing to note is that the 260s had two fuel pumps - the mechanical on the head and an electric near the tank. Sounds like one or both might be bad.

Well, that didn't work.

I will not be picking up the engine with these parts - not now anyway. (Maybe later if the seller gets desperate?) Since I already have the parts I need to put a freshened L24 in my car, this engine would just be for resale, really. And I don't really have the time to devote to parting it out now.

Here: http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/15/c2/0900823d801d15c2.jsp

Some thoughts: 1.) There are apparently problems with the Rewind center caps fitting on the front of 240Zs. 2.) Whether the 15" look "better" than the 14" is up to you. Myself, I prefer the taller sidewall look of the 14" - looks more "correct" to me. 3.) Not much available in 14" real performance tires these days.

No promises, my weekends are busy this month - preparing to do the transmission swap.

Exactly why I picked out my early vented tailgate from Danny in person.