Arne

I've seen some go for over $800.

Most of us have earlier 240Zs. The hoses for the 260Z and '73 240Z are much different.

That is the only wire in that area on my car as well. As noted above, test it by turning the ignition on and grounding that wire. The brake warning light should light up when it is grounded.

If it were me, I'd get the engine harness, both column switches (turn signal and lights/wiper), wiper motor, and any of the dash/console switches you can get.

The farther you get from the model you have, the more differences you will have to deal with. The '73 has a lot of differences from the '71, things like intermittent wipers, totally different defroster switch, lighted heater panel, etc. Unfortunately, (as I found out on mine) there are plenty of small differences between different month production of even the same model year.

Six of one, half dozen of the other. Either choice will be reliable and eliminate points and their maintenance. The big issue for a 240Z distributor would be how good are the shaft bushings? Because if the shaft is sloppy, the timing won't be stable, no matter how advanced an ignition you use. This may be the biggest advantage to the ZX/E12-80 combo, since those dizzies are 10 years newer, they are more likely to have acceptable shaft bushings. But if you've got a really good 240Z dizzy, the Pertronix should be just as good.A couple of things to add - you should replace the coil no matter which setup you go with. You can get a fancy performance coil, or just use an OEM type. But you should get a new one that was designed for electronic ignition, and not to be used with a ballast resistor. (Because you'll want to eliminate the ballast resistor either way.) And if you go with the ZX dizzy, you need the ZX dizzy support bracket as well, the 240Z support won't work. I have the ZX package on my 240Z, with a generic aftermarket coil designed for the '79-80 ZX as well. Works fine.

The gauge and switch wiring will be a bit different, but you can probably work that out. There may be differences in the connectors to the engine harness as well. It would be better to get that part too. I say this because I've been there - My wiring thread.

Yes, the car can be saved. But it will be expensive and time-consuming.

I saw that set too, but didn't pursue them. The ones I'm looking at are not that set.

Not necessarily quite that low. I've been told that the 2400 valve covers were phased out during 10/70 production. So call it the first 12000-14000 cars or so.

That's kinda what I'm thinking, although I don't have a lot of room to store them. Too many other Z parts scattered all about the house and garage. But the price is pretty good, so I'll probably get them anyway, even if I decide to resell them for parts money right away.

Hey folks - some advice please. It looks like I have a line on a set of 'D' hubcaps and matching early 4.5" stock wheels for a reasonable price. I really don't anticipate ever using them on my car, but since they are the proper vintage, should I get them just to have in case? Given that my car will not be all original ever again, and the original engine is long gone, should I bother? What do you all think?

No pictures, but you want one from a carbed RX7, not a fuel injected one.

Hmm, a clean and straight moderately low VIN '70, to boot. What's not to like?

I suspect the answer to that is yes, but I can't say that with certainty since I've never tried the factory '73 pump. However, those factory '73 pumps are expensive, I should think that other options may be far more affordable.

I verified that my 10/70 car is the four wire tach.

Sounds more like a fuel supply issue to me. I'd start tracing the fuel path, looking for rust, clogged filters, bad fuel pump, etc.

Yeah, look at the back of the tach to see how many terminals it has - 3 or 4. I believe that the '72 tach is different than the early tach, though. The tach issue shouldn't make much difference to which electronic ignition you end up using, but I would strongly recommend not attempting to do the EI upgrade until after you figure the tach thing out. Trying to fix the tach after the upgrade could be much more complex. On my car (same 10/70 production date) I went with a 280ZX distributor with electronic ignition, the hook up to make the tach work properly with that ignition was fairly simple.

Mike is right, without having the tach plugged in, the car won't run (unless you hot-wire it). There are two types of 240Z tachs, known as three-wire and four-wire. They are not easily interchangeable. As I recall it, our Series 1 cars use the four-wire version. So I think you'll need to stay with a '70-71 tach - a '72 or later probably won't work.

I don't know what the supply is like back East. Here in the West, very few people would consider trying to save a car that is that far gone unless it was a very low-VIN Series 1 car, had sentimental value, or both. Way too many better cars available for not a lot of cash out here.

If the increased demand prompts new suppliers or increased production, than supply goes up and price comes down.But if the demand goes up without new suppliers or increased production from existing suppliers, prices go up as supply gets tight. The original poster is obviously assuming that if demand goes up, supply will increase to match. Reminds me of trickle-down economics. It could happen that way, but it could backfire too.

I haven't done this on my Z, but in the past on other projects I always used the original wire. If you do it with the cover off the seat, you are actually pulling the cover over the wire, not the wire through the cover.

If the engine gets enough pressure to shut off an idiot light (and it should, most idiot lights trip at 5-10 psi), it would be enough to trigger the relay and run the pump. Watch your gauge while the starter is running, if the needle lifts off zero while cranking, you should be OK.

http://classiczcars.com/classifieds/index.php

Looks like the earlier model, to me.