Arne

People, there is the possibility that the 2-wire lights might be proper dual filament lights, but that the ground has no wire, the lamp being intended to be grounded by its mount to steel body. That was why I asked what I did, and only that. Until we know that bit of info, all speculation is moot. If the bulbs are dual filament, and you need to mount the lights on the air dam, a separate ground wire will be needed to connect the metal base of the lamp to the metal body of the car. If the bulbs are single filament, I second the recommendation to return them and buy something more suitable.

Do they have dual filament bulbs? If not, it can't be done, you'll need different lights.

SUs need air horns, which are included in the kit. Without the horns you will lose performance, not gain. But to be honest, I don't know that the gain (if any) from this kit will be significant. The stock airbox is not the limiting factor on Z horsepower.

Get with it, Zedy, I've got 16 years on you. Besides, it's not just a random QR, it's useful too.

Very nice!

Dan, I hope you can do better than I can. I knew I had two window regulators, thought they were a pair from the same parts car. Wrong! I've got two LH, no RH. So I struck out there. I've got three spare amber sidemarker lenses, all three have at least one crack. Don't know why I've kept them this long. I did come up with seven of the trim panel clips. Blue, if you can't get those from someone in the same shipment as the rest, PM me an address and I'll drop them in the mail.

Won't work on the early (pre-73, or thereabouts) 240Z with FRP headlight buckets, which I would have guessed your car has. Are you certain your buckets are metal?

FWIW - I've not been able to find any 'Z' emblems in 1.75" in the past. (If you find some, let me know.) It's not too hard to find 'DATSUN' emblems in that size, though.

Looks like the window regulators are the same for all 240Z. I think I have one. Might have a few of these kicking around too. How many are you missing? I know I have one of these, but not sure how good it is. Jan. '71 is the split - is the ignition key single-cut, or double-cut? I got my 905 touch up from the shop that painted the car. That way I could be more certain it would match the paint on the car. I don't think I'd trust any off the shelf to match the custom mixed that was sprayed on the car. (Of course, three years later, mine has all dried up.) Still available new from Nissan, or numerous online vendors.

Wing, verify how he's measuring those. Make sure he's not measuring the entire outside diameter. A 14" wheel can be easily measured as 15" if you don't know what you are doing. I'm not saying that they can't be 15", but the 15" ones are mega rare.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like keepitclean just does generic harnesses that would nee to be adapted for Z use. That seems to me to be more work than testing and repairing the ones you already have. The ones at new-datsun-parts are horribly expensive, and they don't have all the necessary parts for a '71. In particular, they have no dash harnesses for a '71 at all, either early or late. What is the build date of the car you are working on? Are you thinking of just the dash harness? Or all three main pieces? Automatic or 4 speed?

I don't think that not having the budget to pay for the use of a car for a few minutes of filming is a bad thing, considering that this is not really intended to be a film with wide appeal or to be a commercial success. That said, one can't expect to have others that don't share the vision that has led to this film to go out of their way (both in time and financial expense) for this. I'm sure that the film maker fully expected that there was one or more yellow/lime 240Zs that were reasonably local to the location.

I agree. A repaint is part of a refresh or restoration, not an original car. I have tried to retain as much "originality" as possible on my car, but it is no longer "original".I also tend to differentiate between "refreshed" and "restored". A refresh is less comprehensive than a restoration, but likely still has more original parts. A restoration will be restored to original with replacement original parts (think NOS). I consider my car to be refreshed, not restored.

Rick (and Kathy, of course), the two-stage paint on my car (905 red) has more depth and gloss than the 38-year old original paint it replaced, but I don't know how much different it might look from the original when it was new. I too asked about using a single-stage paint, and got the same responses you have. In any case, I removed all glass and trim, and had the door jambs, etc. all painted as well. The hatch was painted (on both sides) while off the car, as were the headlight buckets, valance and spoiler. I did not paint the underside of the hood, nor the interior or the engine compartment. It was my goal to retain originality where ever possible, and those areas still looked good. I don't feel that the two-stage paint has detracted from the car's appeal as a car that is driven frequently. I suppose if I were trying to win Gold Medallion or something like that, I might feel differently about it.

Seriously? West Coast, USA. No road salt....

The white/white-black pair are the speaker wires.

I don't have the details here at work, but go to the Classic Motorsports magazine website, look for the articles on their 240Z project. It was 919 yellow, and they bought paint for touch-up that matched well. I seem to recall that they noted where they got it. And even if you don't want to use that brand paint, you could buy a sample to have your preferred paint mixed to match.

What a relief! My car suffers from none of these things. But here are some additional thoughts: If the goal is to make it look stock, non-factory might be bad. On the other hand, for a resto-mod, a good (complete, inside and out) color change can be an important part of the job. Not always bad. Some people don't mind these. (My wife, for example.) And they do improve the ventilation. So to each their own. Zs have always been swap-friendly. The SBC swap has a long history in Zs. If you want a Z with substantial power, it really is the affordable way to go. No, I don't want one, but they aren't automatically bad. Face it - the factory 240Z seats aren't all that great. For long distance driving I'd want a seat swap of some sort myself. So again, not necessarily bad. Another item that depends on the context and how well it's done. Can really help show off a chrome/polished accented engine. If you are customizing the interior, why not? It's a good place for speakers. Personal preference. Shoot, my BRE spook is non-factory. Wouldn't want my car to be without it. Done well and tastefully, this can be acceptable. Sorry, I can't accept this one blindly, either. Honda heater blower motors and wiper motor swaps are darned good improvements for a car that needs to be used in all weather conditions.So after reviewing this list, I'd have to say that if a modification doesn't damage the car in some way (like butchered wiring mods), let's not be judgmental. They are cars. Modify them as you like, and then drive them.

PM sent.

OK. Wasn't sure if my car qualified or not.

Not many left on the East Coast, like your 260Z they have mostly all succumbed to the tin-worm. Is your budget enough to buy a solid car from the West Coast and have it shipped? Or you could fly out and drive back if you bought a ready-to-drive car.

First question - what is your definition of "a small fortune"? Also, where do you live, as that will have a huge bearing on price/availability. Non-factory color is way up on the list, another is those damned sunroofs. I'm SOOO glad not to have that hole in the roof anymore.

Another thing to look at might be a cracked or otherwise messed up cam spraybar.

Leakdown test.

Not a fan.