Arne

Mine (10/70) is similar to the left one. The defrost logo is painted, the parking light emblem is not, and the throttle slot is full length, although if you look closely you can still see the remnants of the adhesive from the black tape that covered it way back when.

How about Arizona Z Car springs? They are definitely not progressive, have that 180 front/200 rear spring rate, and are reasonably priced. http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html

The number of turns we all use will vary depending upon the exact float level per carb. For example, my carbs are about a half a turn different from front to rear. No two cars are likely to have the same settings, even if they are identical set-ups. The 2.5 turns out is a convenient starting point, you need to fine tune both carbs independently from there.

There's another possibility as well. What if the addition of the electric pump is pushing the fuel pressure over 5 PSI? Get much over that and the needle jets in the float bowls might not close tightly, pushing the float level up, and richening the mixture.

He's probably too humble to admit to it, so I'll do it for him. That one is EScanlon's.

I believe so, yes.

You're right - I should clarify. My numbers are with my own gauge, engine warm, throttles WFO, and at 200 meters above sea level (600 ft).

Those numbers seem quite low to me. My L28 has flat top pistons and a stock P79 head (stock cam). I get numbers around 165-170 dry, have never done a wet test. The fact that yours increases wet does sound like compression rings or scuffed bores to me.

No fears about killing the pump, he mentions he has power to "both" leads. The washer pump is not grounded to the body. One of the two leads should supply power, and the other ground. (Can't remember which is switched in this case, the power or the ground.) If both are powered, the pump ain't gonna do nuthin'.On further thought, it seems to me that my washer pump has a black ground wire and a second wire that is only hot when I press the button. Can't say for certain though - I'm at work, the Z is at home. (Motorcycle commuting! woo hoo!)

Lower valence is completely different. No turn signals below the bumper on the 280Z, and the valance itself is deeper to cover the larger 280Z radiator.

According to the various Road & Track articles I have, this was normal (to a certain extent) for US 240Zs. The 260Z had changes to level the car more. The Euro Stage 1 springs from the factory were supposed to lower the front about 10 mm (3/8") and the raise the rear about the same amount. So if you have a 240Z this might be normal. It could be exaggerated greatly if the shocks didn't match front and rear. If the fronts have more gas pressure than the rear you could see this as well.

Highly unlikely, since you bought loaded calipers. I still think the problem is between the master cylinder and booster.

Which pushrod are you adjusting? There are two. One from the pedal to the power booster, and another one inside between the booster and the actual master cylinder. I'm betting there is a mis-match or mis-adjustment on the booster to master pushrod.

Sorry, I can't buy that. Done right, an older MG is no less reliable than an old Datsun. I used my '67 MGB as my daily driver for 5 years post-restore. It didn't leak, and experienced zero electrical issues or failures during that period. It's all in how you build and maintain them, just like anything else.Sorry, this is off-topic, but that comment punched one of my buttons.

OMG!! The shame!

Shoot, Bryan. I'd give you grief too if I had seen it!

The thick ends are nearest the ends of the car. Therefore the fronts have thick to the front, rears vice-versa. When properly mounted, the lens surface should be parallel to the centerline of the car. This allows the reflectors to reflect to the widest field of view. Note that having the reflectors parallel to the centerline was a US DOT requirement, so I don't know if the rest of world had theirs mounted as we did here.

I really do plan on visiting the shop, Bruce, really, I do. But tearing myself away from the other 'have-tos' is tough. But I will, I promise. As for the swap meet, it occurs to me that my previous swap meet experiences were all prior to the explosion of the Internet, and specifically pre-eBay. Perhaps what I perceive as poor vendor turn-out is normal these days. Used to be if a guy had a bunch of leftover parts when his car was done, he sold them at swap meets. These days they probably go on eBay instead. So maybe we can't expect much more than we got. Lastly, I'm not the right guy to ask about the entry fees. I've never been much into having my cars judged, even the old MG after doing a 98% stock, bare-tub restoration. I don't mind paying admission, but I restore/build my cars to please me, not other people. (Well, I have to consider my wife too, or I'd never be able to do this stuff.) In fact, compared to the Brit-car scene, being able to pay a nominal fee to just park inside the grounds with all the rest of the cars was a revelation. At the All Brit Field Meet, if you didn't enter the concours or buy a swap meet booth, you couldn't bring your car onto the grounds. So if I was just attending one day to look at other cars, I had to park outside in the gravel with the SUVs. The $5 fee to park inside to me seems great.

After reading all this, my plan is to go smaller tubing on mine when I do the exhaust. Since mine will have an essentially stock L24 I figure 2.25" will be more than sufficient, and even 2.0" will probably be OK. Everything I have read indicates that the smaller tube is quieter.

The approximate metric equivalent of the old F78-14 is 205/75-14. Assuming that a.) your car is not lowered, and b.) your rims are the stock offset 5.5" 280ZX rims, the 195/75-14 should fit fine. I can recall installing plenty of tires of that height on Z's back in the late 70's and early '80s when I sold tires for a living.

I dunno. If you're going to swap to carbs, why flat-tops? Makes me wonder what it really is?

The stock ones for all 240Zs were wood with the shift pattern, I think 260Zs were the same. No Datsuns ever came with onyx from the factory. I'll bet that most of the people on this site have bought something from MSA (aka The Z Store) at one time or another.

Is it really worth the effort? You can buy a brand new polished walnut knob with Datsun emblem from MSA for $17.95. (Third one down the list, #50-3513) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSK

Are you sure it's the knob, ad not the shift lever? What yer car do you have, and what transmission?

Sorry, Gary, that post of mine made it sound like I had problems when using the correct harness. I did not. What I was referring to was that because of all the small differences I felt like I needed to find that exact harness, not that the harness that I did use was a problem.If I was still looking as you are, I would try to find the E4602 as my first choice. But if I found an E4601 I'd probably do it. While I can't say for certain (as I haven't had one to physically compare), I believe the differences between those two would be minor enough to be easily worked around. The later harness (starting with 1/71 production) would seem to also work, but more differences have crept in. But in the case of the original thread starter, going from a '71 (either early or late) all the way to a '73 will bring on many differences. That will increase the difficulty of the project considerably. So in short Gary, for your 11/70 car I'd try to find the proper 10/70-12/70 harness, but would probably consider one on either side of that production window as well.