Arne

Well, this sounded familiar, so I did a search. Firstly, I noted that 71350Z has posted here 6 times - 4 of which have been to recommend this same outfit. Secondly, while I have no dealings with this outfit at all, seems that some research the last time this came up exposed some questionable stuff: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20656&highlight=East+Coast+Barry

Hey guys. Due to me not being able to handle this stuff for a while, I'm not going to be the contact for the alternator adapters. Please forward any further orders to David Irwin - Zs-ondabrain. Thanks for all your support.

Hey guys. Please forward any further orders to David Irwin - Zs-ondabrain. Thanks for all your support.

Manifolds can definitely be removed and installed with the engine in place.

I don't recall draining the oil first. Seems to me that you'll lose a little oil out of the pump itself, but not much. BTW, I found these instructions to be better for this task than those in the FSM. Might help. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/16/b5/0900823d801d16b5.jsp

Sorry, Marty. It was originally a blue car, but the interior is black.

Let it go. The model year is not really important, as it is defined differently in different jurisdictions. (As you just found out.) It really doesn't matter.

No. The shaft must come out the bottom, it cannot be removed from the top. But it's a simple job, probably only took me 30 minutes or less.

I'm not sure you have much to gain on an L26 by going to an earlier head. The E31 ('70-71) and small-chamber E88 ('71-72) will give a bit more compression, but have smaller intake valves. The large chamber E88 ('73) will give about the same compression and still have smaller intake valves. If I were looking for performance, I'd probably look for an N42 ('75-76 L28) instead. That would keep the same compression as stock (more or less), but have bigger exhaust valves too. Still has square ports, so no manifold change is needed. If it hasn't had them replaced already, the exhaust seats should be replaced with steel seats when the valve job is done.

Series 1 is long pigtail.

For any of you who have requested my address for this but not yet sent payment - Please hold up! I can't promise when production might resume at this time. I'll keep everyone posted.

I think you'll have to dye them yourself. I've used SEM brand interior paint on similar hard plastic panels on other vehicles with excellent results. Just make certain that you also get the SEM Surface Prep and follow the instructions exactly.

Soap and water on the hubcaps. Haven't done anything to the wheels yet. The "Euro Stage I" springs were a factory set available from the dealer parts department, and are what 240Zs in Europe came with standard. They are just a touch stiffer, and were designed to lower the car just a little - around 10-15 mm per end, as a best guess.They have been unavailable for some time now, but Courtesy Nissan (with help from Carl Beck and others) is now offering precise reproductions. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=55000-E4106US But - early reports are that when used with today's gas pressure struts, they actually raise the car from stock. The current consensus is that they need to have 1.25-1.5 coils cut off to make the car sit where it should if you are using gas struts (which is almost all that is available these days). I haven't installed mine yet, but may get around to that soon.

OK, I apologize for thinking that you guys who don't own Series 1 cars had it so easy with the ashtrays. Apparently getting a later ashtray that looks good is at least as difficult as it is for us Series 1 owners to find an affordable unbroken one. In my case, all it takes is a willingness to spend an absurd amount of money. In your case, money alone may not be enough...

Sounds like the oil pump shaft is one tooth off. The L28 in my car came equipped with a small vice-grips pliers when I bought it. The only way the previous owners could get the timing close was to remove the lower lock bolt completely and clamp the dizzy in place with the vice-grips. Set the engine at TDC for #1 and pull the dizzy. I'm betting the drive tang will be almost perfectly vertical. Looking from the dizzy end, it should really be just a touch counter-clockwise from vertical. (Call it 11:25 using the clock face as a reference.) If this is the case, you need to drop the pump and shaft, move it one tooth back - clock-wise when looking from underneath.

Hard to say from the small pictures, but they look like Ultra's to me. As I recall it, Enkei may have made that style also. But the Enkei's didn't have a lip on the outside for weights to clip to, and your caps look like Ultra caps as well.Either way, the directional appearance on that style of wheel was for looks only. There was/is no functional fins or other air-moving component to those wheels. It really has no effect on the car or how it drives as to which wheel is where. But if you look at the back sides of the wheels, I think either brand had a recommended side of the car cast in - 'R' or 'L' for the Ultras, the Enkei's might actually have Right and Left cast. Use those as a recommendation, if you prefer the looks of them on the opposite side, go for it. If it were me, I'd swap the right front with the left rear. Or you could swap the left front with the right rear, either way will even things out.

That's too bad. I have bought from Banzai (Mike McGinnis) in the past and was very pleased with the whole deal. I certainly understand that prices change, but to not update the website - well, that's just wrong. If your website is going to list prices, the consumer expects said prices to be accurate.

Assuming you haven't been doing any electrical work, the fusebox should be your first stop.

In that case I see no reason not to convert it, same as I did. Let me know if I can be of assistance.

Been there and done that with 12746. Here's my take on this. Depends on the car, and how close you look. Some of the automatic cars did not come with the clutch pipe/hose support tab spot-welded to the right frame rail. If yours does not have this mount, it will have to be added. My car (12746, 10/70) did not have it. The very similar automatic owned by funz1z (12403, also 10/70) did have it. It's possible that the early automatics did have the tab, and that mine is one of the first that did not. But knowing the other inconsistencies in this kind of thing with these cars, I wouldn't count on that.The other differences are harder to see, but they are there just the same. The engine compartment and dash wiring harnesses are different - the automatics have a few extra wires for the kickdown and starter interlock (neutral safety switch). These wires would not be used if you convert to a manual, but could still be seen if someone looked hard enough, unless you go to the considerable expense and hassles involved in finding and swapping the wiring as well. There is also a bracket for the kickdown switch spot-welded above the throttle pedal on the automatic cars, which again would not be used if you convert. I agree with this with only one reservation - installing a 5 speed in an early car will require you to enlarge the hole in the tunnel for the shift lever. If you don't want to permanently modify the body shell, you may want to stick with a 4 speed.But I do agree totally with the main sentiment - if you want a manual transmission in the car, do it. It's your car, you want to enjoy it. If this is your goal, you'll want to find an early Type 'A' four speed for the car, the same as I did. If you haven't already done so, read through the Tech Article I wrote up on this exact swap - Series 1 240Z auto to 4 speed swap. Also, feel free to contact me for advice as needed. I may even have a spare Type 'A' 4 speed available shortly, if you need it. (Might keep it for a spare, though. Who knows?)In my case, swapping to a manual was a no-brainer - I don't care for automatics, and my car does not have its original engine (not matching numbers). So for me, there was no reason not to swap. But I know other Z owners with automatics who are quite satisfied with their clutchless cars. It's all up to you as the owner. Just remember - it's your car now, so do whatever makes you happiest.

{Imagine the sound of Arne donning his Nomex gear, in preparation for the flames.} You know, as a 240Z owner who has not met - and likely will never meet - any of the principals in the design process of these cars (note that I am trying to be all-inclusive here), threads like this one (and there have been several since I joined here about a year ago) are interesting, reassuring, and yet rather troubling to me. Interesting, because I learn all sorts of little details. Reassuring, because it is obvious that there are many people here who are extremely passionate about these cars, and that bodes well for the future preservation of them. But troubling as well, because there seems to be a serious undercurrent of sniping, back-stabbing and general ill-will to some of these posts. Now I will grant that as a Z owner I am a relative newbie. But (unfortunately) I'm not a young man any more, and my decades of communicating with other humans tells me that even if we all were to talk personally with the principal parties, it is probable that we would all come away with differing opinions. None of us were there, and so none of us will ever know the details, motivations, etc. first hand. So I guess I'd really be happier if everyone would just lighten up a bit. We are all here because we share a passion for these cars. I really don't think it matters to most people 30-40 years later why a certain part was or was not used on a certain car or in a certain market at any one point in time. Yes it matters that we know about the parts, but from this distance in time, the motivations behind it probably aren't important.

Yet try to peel off old window tint film and the grid peels off with it, leaving only the etching...

You know, I wondered about that shortly after I posted that. Thanks for clarifying that, Chris.I'd go back and edit my post, but the server config has apparently been changed recently to prohibit editing old posts.

For those of you not needing to go all the way to 2 1/2" you could use the Dynomax #17-741, which is a 6" round, 19 1/2" long muffler with 2 1/4" inlet and outlet. That's probably what I will use on mine, and I actually have one on my wife's 16v Jetta now. Here's picture of one on a Z from a different thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12732&d=1149871912

My thoughts exactly, Gary. Other than the header, my L24 will be bone-stock. I'm pretty sure that 2" will probably be more than fine, as long as it's mandrel bent. If I had to go with non-mandrel (and I won't), 2 1/4" would be better.