Arne

You could add it to a signature file, that way it gets added automatically every post.

First - please remember to tell us what year car you have. It can help. Which coil did you get? The 3.0 ohm, or the 1.5 ohm? If you got the 3.0, you can bypass the resistor. If you have the 1.5, you need to keep the resistor in place. The wiring is simple, and pictures don't generally show it all that well. To bypass the resistor, you need to connect the two wires from the resistor to each other. The pertronix ignitor has two wires. The black wire connects to the negative terminal on the coil. The red can connect to the positive terminal on the coil if you have bypassed the resistor. If you are still using the resistor, connect the red wire to the 12v end of the resistor. I can't tell you what color wire to look for since I don't know the year of your car. If there is a condenser attached to the current coil, disconnect it and do not use it with the pertronix.

If you want it to look close to original but still have some sound, I'd import a Dynomax 17-741 and have it installed locally. It is a 6" round case, similar in looks to stock.

was. banned.

That looks like an old Interpart part number to me. I don't have any old Interpart catalogs, but I too think it is probably a BRE "Spook". Since the Interpart name didn't come along until later (and also since the listing notes the 260Z fitment), I'm going to guess it is the same spoiler as I had on my car.

Those are the later style hubcap as used from '72-76. They generally don't go for as much as the early ('70-71) style. And the pictures are not good enough to judge the condition. Surface rust or even mild corrosion on the caps really drops the value. Even so, as a full set of four w/original steelies, no way I'd take less than $100 for the set, or more if the condition was really nice.

I've done it on a turn signal unit, but not the gold-colored 4-way. Carefully un-crimp the shell and then you can remove the guts. At that point I have normally inserted new guts from off-the-shelf replacement flashers and re-crimped the original shall back on. Looks stock, works better....

Agreed. Don't simply hook up two speakers to the stock radio, you can (will?) damage the radio. Extra circuitry as described by the previous post is required. As for using better speakers back there instead fo the very rudimentary stock unit, you need to use a fairly shallow depth speaker. I used a pair of poly-cone 5 1/4" Kenwoods in mine. Don't worry about co-axial speakers with separate tweeters and such - the stock radio doesn't have the ability to make those sound much better than a single-cone.

Received payment (wire transfer from Norway) today. So my 240Z is officially sold. Will grace my garage for a while yet while shipping is arranged.

Is the rear defroster switch illuminated?

Ahh, but which Jan. '71 are you doing? Some are Series 1 (same as 9/70 through 12/70), others are Series 2 (1/71 through 8/71).

There are differences in wiring between 12/70 and 4/71. But you should be able to use either in your car, as long as all three main harness sections (body, engine compartment, dash) are from the same build date. I'd recommend against trying to mix and match.

I've found plenty of nice Porsches for about what I got for the Z.

Fun stuff, all of them. But not practical to drive regularly in all weather, as I do with my fun cars. I don't believe in having a car that sits in the garage all the time. I drove my Z at least once a week, regardless of weather. Its replacement needs to be just as all-weather capable and practical.

Quoted from a different thread: Yeah, in the six years I've seen more than I would have imagined. Terminal rust, being 'found' by a really special 240Z, working with suppliers to recreate period accessories, great new friends, and now sending my car halfway 'round the world. "What a long, strange trip it's been..."And no way will I rule out having another Z someday. If I ever have one again, it will be a very different project than the red car ended up being.

I don't even want nav in my car, and have no need for any sort of GPS. But if it's important to you, go for it.

I'm not an expert on identifying the various heads, but that definitely looks like a round-port head to me. As for the damage, I'd bet that was the cause of the head gasket failure. You'll need to have that head repaired, or replace it with a different head. Lastly, do some research on that particular ebay seller before sending him any money....

Sold mine. Awaiting payment, at which time it will be shipped to Norway. Will still be in the garage for 2-3 weeks, I'm guessing.

I don't think you'll find any banks willing to loan you $12k on an old car. If you are going to need to borrow the money to buy your next car, it will need to be new enough to be "financeable". I see no way to finance an old car like a 510. Sorry.

Well, I've got probably 2 weeks before all the money is in my account. (Then more time before the car leaves the garage, overseas shipping takes time to arrange.) At this time, I'm going to guess that the next car will be a Porsche. Age and model still in the air.

I suppose. All of the BMWs owned by myself, my family, neighbors and friends have all been extremely reliable cars. No real problems with any of them. But I don't think I want something as modern as a Z4 for my play car.

I'm with Dan. The antenna looks stock, exactly like my former car's, but not the bracket.

Hmmm. He must be hard on cars. I drove an E36 328i as my daily for 8 years. It was almost totally trouble-free. Same with the E21 323i (euro) that I drove for the 5 years prior.

Also depends on whether the car has an air dam, or stock front valance. There is more clearance with an air dam. XWX's were the top handling tire when they were new, but probably not all that great by today's standards. I'll second the warning about the ride - they have one of the stiffest tall sidewalls you'll ever come across.

Too new. I still want something I can wrench on myself.