Arne

Derek, the difference is mainly in how far back towards the firewall the rail extends. Yours only goes as far as the extra threaded boss in the valve cover, the early ones (as shown in the pictures of Kat's and mine) extends past the rear carb.

Yes, the replacement knobs are just a bit chunkier, both in the wood and even the chrome base is slightly different. The pattern disk is very close, there seems to be a very slight difference to the type-face or font used, but it is very close.My guess is that the original manufacturer of these knobs is out of business, and that Nissan found a new supplier, but they tooled up from scratch. Hence the slight differences. Later this week - perhaps this evening - I'll go remove the knobs from the cars and take some good comparison pictures of the original and replacement.

Oops! Duplicate post! See the pictures above.

The wood one on the left is the stock one, Will. It's hard to see the difference here, but the one that is almost hidden by the steering wheel is the original, and the other is the new replacement from Nissan. The replacement is noticeably fatter and less graceful shaped. I'll take better comparison pictures of he two knobs later.

Hey Derek, your fuel rail doesn't look right compared to Kat's or mine. It appears to me to be from a '73? The attached picture is mine, it shows he earlier fuel rail (barely), as well as the sticker locations for the later '71s. (Got to get those two replaced soon.)

I'll look into clear-coating the emblem, that may be all I need there. Will, the plastic emblems (lens) on the factory knobs have 3-D relief to the numbers and pattern. They are molded into the under-side of the lens, the reliefs are painted pale gray, and then the back of the lens was painted black. Done that way, the numbers and pattern stand out in the clear lens. Would be hard to duplicate without molding a completely new lens with the reliefs cast in.

I'm not at home today, I'll post pics of both original and replacement later. It looks like the plastic emblems are the same, but it seems a shame to sacrifice a $60 knob just for the emblem, even if I could get it off without damaging it.

I'd like to tack on to this thread. I've got the original wood shift knob for my 240Z, and I'd like to restore it rather than replace it as the replacements (even from Nissan) aren't the same - the are fatter. I need to refinish it, which is not the problem. But the plastic emblem with the shift pattern is cracked. Can that plastic emblem be replaced or repaired?

Carl, PM a7dz. I think Jim still has a set of KYBs on his bench.

After having heard of this issue several times lately, I'm going to have to assume that the third-party service manuals (Haynes, Clymer, and the like) must all have very poor descriptions about adjusting the booster pushrod. The FSM has better instructions, as well as a decent cut-away diagram, IIRC. (Out of town today in a motel room. Can't look at my FSM to be sure.)

Check prices for exchange calipers that are already rebuilt. I bought a pair for my '71 from Schucks (Kragen) for all of $29 per side. No pads, but all rebuilt with new pad hardware and a lifetime warranty. Not worth getting all messy inside the caliper for that price.

If the engine is running so lean that it needs the choke to make it run right, there is no harm in running it that way, other than it is darned difficult to get the mixture 100% correct by using the choke lever. You are only going to get close, at best.

Sounds like your carbs are set too lean. Probably time to start from scratch. You are going to want to search the site for posts on carb adjustment, go to www.ztherapy.com and read their stuff, and probably buy their video as well. Be warned that if your old carbs are in typical condition for their age, you may not be able to get them really right as the throttle shafts will be leaking air into the system. You'll want to plan for ZTherapy or Zedd Findings remanufactured carbs if that is the case.

Jim, disregard what you and I were talking about on the phone this afternoon. I went out into the garage just now and tested the red car. Blower does NOT work when the relay is unplugged. Build date 7/71. I can't test the yellow car right now, the heater panel and switch are not installed.

The parts Mike pictured are the same as I found in both my yellow 240Z (10/70) and my parts car (4/71). I haven't had my red car's mirror apart yet, but it certainly looks the same from the outside (7/71).

I believe I now know the difference between early and late grommets. The late grommet (the one you always see offered these days) has a round protrusion into the engine compartment. The early grommet has two smaller protrusions. In the attached pictures, the early is shown installed in the (red) firewall, and the late is shown sitting on a table.

I think it'll be OK, as long as the lug nuts don't bottom out on the now-longer studs. I did that with those same wheels for a while while parting out a 240Z. Didn't have the correct lug nuts, but it worked fine for a car that wasn't going anywhere.

Another thought is that the largest Insultherm size is 1", at least on that website. Not large enough for radiator hoses.

Please keep us posted on any updates on this. I'd happily stay with braided if the were fresh and not absurdly expensive.

My car still has all of its braided hoses on it. And yes, some of them do look a touch faded. But I'm planning to go the other way. Since I don't trust 35 year old hoses - no matter how good they look - I will replace them all with modern hoses. I'll keep the originals, but for daily driving I'll put on modern hoses.

Yeah, Arne does. I saw that after the edit window closed. Fat fingers....

Is your car an automatic? Because the manual transmission 240Zs all came with single-point ignitions, the automatics had dual-point.

They were illegal in the USA at that time, so no US cars came with them from the factory, neither standard or as a factory option. Dealer installed at best.

Not pilot bearing, as there's no movement on that once the clutch pedal is released. If it varies with engine RPM, suspect the input shaft bearing, needle bearings between input and main shafts, or the countershaft bearings. If it varies with road speed, suspect the output bearing.

First, welcome, and very nice looking car! Looks like a great start. Re: the wheels - first, they aren't Enkeis, they just have Enkei caps in them. Since the Enkei caps fit, that tells me they are actually Appliance Wire mags, which are almost as appropriate to these cars as the more common slotted mags. Lots of us (myself included) actually like them. So much so that I just bought a set for my car, which are even now at the polishing shop. I'd actually love to have those Enkei caps from yours... Also, you mention that the car comes with "original" slot mags. While it is likely that the slots were installed by the dealer when it was new, they aren't truly "original" as the only wheels from the factory back then were narrow steel wheels with hubcaps. But slots were VERY common, so much so that lots of people assume they were "original". Last - 9005 red looks really good when it's right. That's what color my latest one is, too. Here's link to a picture in my gallery to give you an idea. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=23053&cat=500&ppuser=8596