Arne

I've also heard of one of these cars, I thought the build date was 1/71, but can't confirm that.

I totally agree. I've had three sets of 240Z SUs, and one set on an old MGB. The only set out of the four that weren't totally worn out are the set on the red 240Z - it only has 60,000 miles on it. All the other sets were shot and had huge vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts. Since the mixture throughout the range on an SU is dependent on the idle mixture adjustment, if the shafts suck air at idle, you're going to be way rich everywhere else. And if you lean it so it runs OK at higher RPM, the idle mixture will be dangerously lean.

As I mentioned early in this thread, #12748 has the screws, but neither #27602 nor #37705 were so equipped.

If you find his name, I'd be interested too, Bryan. Things are a bit more lax here in the Eugene area, you can get away with SI plates if they are vintage. At least some of the time. My parts car had a single blue plate on the back with the SI sticker. I know it was being driven fairly regularly prior to the previous owner's son wrecking it. But I won't go SI, I don't want to be limited.

Here in Oregon (where Mike, ZSaint and myself all live), the DMV has an "administrative rule" that repainted or restored plates are not supposed to be allowed. But since it is just a "rule" and not the law, the local DMV office staff who actually have to inspect the plates have some latitude. If they have been restored well (like those pictured at the link to Oregonplates.com above) I don't think you'd have any problems registering them as vanity or especially Special Interest. (In fact, they guarantee their plates will pass Oregon DMV muster.)On the other hand, I had a set restored in Florida by a prominent Hemmings advertiser for my old MG, and while the plate itself was great, the color of the yellow numbers was just plain wrong. Luckily, I didn't have to get that set approved because they were already registered to the car prior to the restoration.

Absolutely. When I bought my red car it already had the later style on it. I bought the early one from my local Nissan dealer. Gave them the part number myself, 46010-E4602. This was in November or December of 2006. Cost me $185 for the real thing, brand new.

I thought of that too, Loren. But I was hoping not to have to buy a whole car just for the plates!

In Oregon, we can use vintage plates in one of two ways. Either as "Special Interest/Antique" registration, or as "Custom" (vanity) plates. In either case, the number can't be in use (obviously), and the plates must be inspected and approved as real (not repro) Oregon plates in good enough condition to be legible by the law enforcement people. The repros at the two sites linked above by Zulatr wouldn't pass the inspection here in Oregon.

I don't really know for certain, but I think so. They have their own dyno and such, I know. I've bought plenty of stuff from them over the years (2 Sciroccos, one GTI, one Corrado and my wife's 16v Jetta),but never stopped by in person.But judging from my dealings with them over the years, even if they don't have a showroom, if you showed up at the office I'd bet they'd be happy to show you the tip in person. They seem to be good people.

Hey folks, I'm going to be in Phoenix for training in the middle of next month. I'll be staying downtown, without a car. Any suggestions of things do or see? Restaurants for dinner? I'm going to be at loose ends (assuming no homework) for 6 evenings...

Try the VW exhaust gurus in Sheridan, Mike, Techtonics Tuning. For example they have a weld-on stainless 3.5" tip for 2.5" pipe for $35. Part number 254.310. Go to their online catalog, look under Exhaust tips. A lot of their tips are for 2.25", but they've got a few for 2.5" too.

Both my cars have rivets in the door jamb plates, don't think either have ever been removed before. Don't know about the engine compartment plate off hand. I'll check it later.

I've got my car with me at work today, but not my camera. If no one posts before this evening, I'll post a picture then.

I agree. I haven't made it up to the shop to see it in person, but the pictures make it apparent that the job is first class all the way. The quality of the work really drives home just how fast the factory was cranking them out in '71. Because as impressive as the originality of my red car is, it's obvious that yours is much nicer. The assembly line people could be a bit sloppy... I don't think I'll be able to make it to Portland for the show, but someone needs to take pictures!!

I guess my question to you would be, "What is your goal? What kind of 240Z do you want in the end?" If you have always wanted an early VIN car, to restore and show, you better get this one now. If the goal is to have a nice, solid and original 240Z to use as a weekend car, I'd pass and find a better example. Not that there is anything wrong with this one for the price - it''s a great place to start an early restoration. But it will take a lot of cash to do it right. And if you really want a '69 production 240Z, it might be hard to find a better starting point. But if your goal is a nice original (or nearly so) 240z that you can drive for fun or even daily, for that money you should be able to get a clean, rust-free '71 or '72. One that won't need floor pans, frame rails, rockers, etc. Summary - if you really want to restore a '69, pay their price now and get the deal sealed. But if you'd be just as happy with a restored '71 or '72, keep looking.

Banzai motorworks lists replacement door jamb plates through late '72. Might be worth a call to see if '73 plates are available as well.

They can be spendy, but these people should have what you want. Just don't buy them all, please. I'm going to want a set for my '71 as well! http://oregonplates.com/ Additionally, call around to local muscle car and hot rod supply houses. They frequently know where a few might be as well.

Maiden drive this weekend, Mike? What direction will you go? Maybe I'll bring mine out and meet you somewhere?

Arne likes it. It's much like what I had in mind for the yellow car, before the red car arrived.

Not blind. It's been converted to an electric fan mounted in front of the radiator to push through the radiator. You can see the thermostat control and coiled temp lead in that same photo.

Please post back how this goes. Looks like a very worth while car, assuming it's not rusted to junk underneath. Other things I noticed - non-original antenna, missing emissions equipment and aftermarket black wiper blades. But a really great starting point. If you get this car, I may have an original early steering wheel (indented, not with holes) I'd be willing to part with.

Yes, if you get your original cylinder sleeved, that could work well - if the job was well done. But that's about the only way I'd consider a rebuilt.My Nissan dealer gives me a nice discount as a 240Z club member. I got my new early master cylinder for $185.

I can't even count the number of times I had this happen when installing a rebuilt on a customer's car. Or how many of them that didn't fail on the test drive, failed in the next week or two. Eventually my employer at that time adopted a "no rebuilts" policy, because having to replace the same cylinder several times in a 90 day warranty is no way to make a profit.

In all my years of working on cars, both my own and as a way to make a living, I've never had a rebuilt master cylinder last for any significant amount of time. Many of them failed before the 90 day warranties expired. I will not trust my brakes to a rebuilt, and in fact bought a new early master cylinder from my local Nissan dealer a couple months back. There were 5 left in the US at that time.

Hard for me to say. The turbo cam is a rather mild grind. It will work with the SUs, but won't make as much power as other cams would. Depends on what you want out of it. The turbo cam requires boost to make power at higher RPM. On a NA (naturally aspirated, or non-turbo) motor, it's likely to feel pretty soft at higher RPMs.