Arne

When you say it has a "pull" in reverse, do you mean the car steers itself to one side while backing up?

Search the site for offset, you'll find more than you wanted to know.

You may have to build it yourself if you want it right. Dave's custom harnesses only fit on 240Zs, the 280Zs have different connectors. And here is a thread that points out that the kit from VB (now Black Dragon) doesn't fit either. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18141

Ooh! Don't get beandip started on spring cutting right now, that's a sore subject!!

You know, it's not all about the money. The yellow car taught me a lot, and helped me make some great new friends. At the time I bought it, it seemed right. Time has proven that to be at least partially wrong, but such is life. You know, if I could get the rust, body and paint done decently well for $3000, I'd be tempted to do it. It wouldn't take much to make a nice driver out of it at that point. But I don't think there are any shops around here that would do it for that. It really needs a buyer who does their own body and paint...

The last pair he sold in December went for $640. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290062541815

Brian, I'll guarantee that there is more damage behind the dogleg. Plus there's the inevitability that if one dogleg is bad, the other probably isn't very far behind it, but you can't see it yet. Those doglegs rust from the inside out. Truth is, even here in Oregon, any car you buy in that price range (yes, I've seen the seller's ad for the car you're looking at) is going to either be rusty, have serious mechanical issues, or more likely both. I've got one for sale here in Springfield, it's quite nice mechanically, but like yours, needs rust repair. Non-rusty cars out here - when you find one - start at around $4000 minimum, $5-6000 and up is more like it. Would that stop me from buying it? Not necessarily. Especially if I had the skill set to fix it myself, or if that was the absolute limit my budget would stretch to cover. But believe me, I know from experience. If you have to pay other people to do your rust, body and paint, you are far better off waiting and paying more up front for one without the rust. BTDT. Now trying to clean up the fallout.

I share the opinion that EFI is OK, as long as it hasn't been mucked with. The reason I have carbs is because I dislike the 280Z bumpers...

Years of coverage? Hard to say. If I were in charge, I think I'd do the inline 6 years - '69-83. But that's just my opinion.

Not without spacers. Way too much offset for a Z. At least for the front ones. Rears may be close.

Welcome, Brian. I remember seeing that car on craigslist-Portland a week or so ago. Hope it turns out well for you. If you make it down to the Eugene area, let me know. I'd love to see the car in person.

Both look right to me, Mike. Looks like the Shelbys were a pretty good alternative. I'd take either brand, if I were in the market.

Thanks to all who replied. Your thoughts all echo my own, and are exactly what I needed to see. As I see it right now, I have four options: 1.) Sell it locally, and hope to get $2000 for it. Easy, maybe quick and simple. 2.) Offer it on eBay, maybe with that same $2000 reserve, and hope for the best. Not quite as easy, quick or simple. 3.) Deal with the rust first, then sell it on eBay. More expense up front, since I'm not a bodyman, and would need to pay someone to do it for me. Might come out OK, but but might not. Should be an easier sale, though. 4.) Part it out. Start adding up the parts - early 4-screw SUs (no float drains) $150; good Series 1 console $50; decent dash maybe $100, used header $100; new radiator $150; turn signal and combo switches $50 each; E31 head $75; rebuilt heater box (new core, foam and valve) $75; complete wiring harness $150; Type A 4 speed $50; driver-quality tail lights $100; working clock $?; more??? That's over a grand there, conservatively. A lot of work, and one less 240Z on the road though. Not bloody likely. Again, thanks to all for your thoughts. I'll keep you posted on where this all goes.

Interesting. It does appear to be the antenna switch from an early AM radio. Even the wire colors appear to be right. Mine (Series 2, 7/71) only has the up arrow on it, same as in moonpup's pictures. My original radio owner's manual also shows only an up arrow, and no down arrow. But maybe earlier cars had both arrows?

People, I need to make a decision. Here on the West coast, I'm not getting any interest in my yellow Z at anywhere close to what I have in it in parts alone. If I'm lucky, I might be able to sell it for $2000 out here. Can some of you folks back East look at the pictures and description in the following links? Tell me (honestly) what a car like this is worth in your part of the country. I need to decide whether to sell it here for whatever I can get, try to advertise it on craigslist in rust belt towns, or mess with eBay. Description More pictures All opinions are welcome!

No, I don't think this is an ignition issue, so don't make any changes there yet. I agree with Gary - 20 wt. oil is absolutely the best choice for the dampers. Much better than Marvel, which is about 5 wt. oil. If you have trouble finding it, look for 20 wt. fork oil at a motorcycle shop. Since we are pretty certain your oil is not optimum, do that first, and test it prior to moving the needles. One change at a time...

This was a fairly common complaint in the early days of emission controls - it was called "lean surge" back then. "Whitish" colored plugs would tend to support this, as plugs can burn white when lean. Proper mixture should give plugs a tan color. However, reading plug color with the "enhanced" fuel we have these days is tricky at best. My stock '71 does not exhibit this to any noticeable degree. But I'm sure that the increased fuel demands of the L28 block could amplify this effect. However, if this were the case richening the mixture a bit should cure it. So with the data we have here, I'm wondering about the needles. We probably have to assume that they are stock (hard to say for certain, though), but what if they were installed a touch too low in the damper piston? In that case, at idle you'd be able to adjust the mixture to be OK. And at full throttle the piston would rise to the top, pretty much taking the needle out of the picture. But at steady state cruise, the needle would be in the jet, and if it were too low the mixture would be slightly leaner than normal. So assuming everything else is good, I'd try raising the needles in the pistons just the tiniest amount. Maybe 1/32" at most. See if that makes a difference. Don't forget to re-adjust the idle mixture after doing so. You should need to lean the idle mixture just a touch after raising the needles.

Mike, I'm pretty certain yours are true American Racing, but are probably fairly late production. IIRC, only true ARE Libres had the reinforcing spine in the spokes. Early wheels said "American Racing Equipment" on the back. Later ones (when production moved from Oregon to California) said "ARE" instead. Another way you can check - ARE Libres had a backside measurement of 3 3/4" while many of the copies were closer to 3 1/4".

Yup. Wheel width is measured at the bead seat, so yours are 5.5" wide.

Don't hold your breath, guys. Dave said he has no e-mail, which to me says he has limited or no computer access. The fact that he hasn't been back since his first post kinda confirms that theory. One of us Oregonians will try to contact him...

Not if it was blue. She learned to drive in her dad's blue 521. I think I could swing it if it was blue.

While I do lust after it, it ain't gonna happen. I can't get anything new until something old goes away. Although if it were that light blue color they used in '69 or so...

For my purposes (weekend trips and daily driver), a set of non-AR's would be just fine. I'd still like to have a set, although my wife doesn't care for them all that much.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/280858768.html

By the way, Mike - I definitely like the new wheels better than those Boyd's. Konigs, I assume?