Jump to content
Remove Ads

Arne

Free Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Arne

  1. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Hmm. I rarely visit any other Z-related forums, although I am a member of a couple others. But in general this is the one I frequent. I don't see a lot of bashing here, maybe because I'm selective about what threads I follow. If the others bash other sites, so be it. I don't see it, I guess they can do whatever they want.
  2. I recall mine as being fairly glossy, maybe like the 85% gloss, I'd guess. I didn't drive the car to work today, I'll try to verify that later tonight.
  3. Cost? - That can vary a lot. Many of the parts needed will be used. So it depends on how much you can find the parts for. In my case, the 4 speed came with the car. All of the various used parts cost me less than $200 total. New clutch pieces probably another $200. Call it less than $400 for the whole job.Worth it? - That also depends. If you want a Z with a manual transmission, there are only two options. Buy a manual car, or buy an automatic and convert. If you can find a manual car in equal condition for no more than $500 more than an equal automatic, it's a wash. But frequently, the automatics are considerably cheaper than an equal condition manual car. Also, many of the automatics are in much better condition than a manual car, as they seem to have had much easier lives. If you are looking for a restoration project, you should probably wait for a manual car. But if you want a Z for a fun daily or weekend driver, converting a nice automatic can be a viable option.
  4. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I own or owned three different '71s - 12746, 27602 & 37705. All three have the later pot metal handle, all three are East-West when latched.
  5. Arne posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I love my SUs, but I certainly agree with Stephen as well, there's nothing wrong with the factory injection for normal use, assuming it's in good repair. And that applies to the carbs as well. But the other part of this is that the original poster asked about carbs on a seriously modified motor. The stock injection might not be able to flow enough air to feed that. A pair of stock SUs might not be able to supply it either. I should think that a 3.0 stroker with a cam and more should really be running triples of some sort.
  6. Arne posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    Been there, done that, wrote an article on it. A simple swap if you do your homework up front. Check this article for the basics: Fuel injection to SU carb swap
  7. Arne posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Yup, I want one. How much and how soon?
  8. Enrique has hit on a real issue on this one. When I was buying parts for my old graymarket BMW 323i, most of the good buys I got on eBay were when sellers listed the chassis type as "E-21" rather than the more accepted "E21". There were always far fewer bidders on the "E-21" items. Typos and suchlike can have a huge difference in the number of people who find and bid on an auction.
  9. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Looks like Fiat to me. Possibly a late 600, but more likely a 500.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_500
  10. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I used to love these back in the late '70s and early '80s. Italian, made by a company called BWA. I've got old magazine ads that show them in 14x6 for Zs, anybody ever seen a set on one?
  11. Well, it's a bit difficult to explain all the various issues that motivate me on this. Sure, I'd love to have some of the cash that I've put into this car back, lots of other places I could make use of it. But I don't really "NEED" the money right this minute. But I don't have any indoor storage for it now - the red 240Z got that. (In fact, the red car has pushed my wife's Jetta outdoors as well.) I don't consider storing the yellow car outdoors as being optimal, to say the least. And I have some things that need done on the red car, so I don't see myself finding time to work on the yellow car for quite a while. Of course, the bulk of what it needs would need to be done by someone else, and therefore indoors, I suppose. And I do have a nagging bad feeling about this in that I've never bailed on a project car before in all the 30+ years I've been doing this. Somehow it just doesn't seem right to me to not see it through. Dave, thanks for the offer. If you lived closer so that transportation wasn't such an issue, I'd have to consider it. But getting the car up to you and back later would be a bit of a pain. And I think for ease of selling it, and also to maximize the value, it should stay it's original pale yellow, not go to white. (Pale yellow might be almost as forgiving to paint?) If I could find someone local (or close) who'd do it for that price, I'd probably do it. Anyway, that's where I'm at now. I'm not in a monster hurry to sell it. It's certainly possible that I may end up taking care of the body first, but probably not overly likely. Thanks to all for your opinions and thoughts.
  12. Pre-77 Z rear wheel cylinders tend to be pricey, as they are fairly unique.
  13. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    I got my metal pop-in caps from Massey's too. I'd give them a call, they may well have the 4-ear screw-on caps as well.
  14. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I can't believe that after all this time no one has posted any slots!! So I will. Not pretty but they have to be here. In Order: 14" slots; the ever-popular 14" 280ZX six-spoke; 14" Appliance Fine Wires (true wire wheels); 14" Appliance Wire Mags; 14" steelies w/D hubcaps!
  15. Arne posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    But if you do buy an automatic, swapping is not hard. Here's a link to a tech article I wrote on this very subject. Series 1 240Z auto to 4 speed swap
  16. No Dave, I hear ya. I knew going in to this that three bills would be a big stretch. Didn't really expect anyone to bite on that price, but kinda hoped for an offer of some sort. (Actually did get an offer - some yahoo said he'd "take it off my hands" for $500. I could part it and get WAY more than that.) Reality is that I probably paid more for the car itself than I should have, and it's a fact of life that you never break even on a deal like this. Yes, the car has a pile of potential to be a really nice driver. It will never be a big dollar car, due to the lack of original motor. Had I not bought the red car last fall, I'd probably try to have the rust and paint done over this summer. For a driver or weekend car, being non-matching numbers give a bit of flexibility in what you do with the car, and I had plans to take advantage of that. I don't know. First and foremost is that it needs to be saved - it has too much potential to part out. I have discussed the car with another club member, one who has the skills to repair and paint it himself. He also agrees with all of us that it's probably not worth more than $2000 in its current condition. Definitely a possibility. I keep grappling with the thought of finding someone local who'd do the body and paint fairly affordably, and then finish the car before selling it. Very satisfying thought emotionally, but doesn't make a lot of sense financially. How much deeper do I want to get into the car? Dunno. If I could get the rust cut out and painted for another $2000, maybe I'd try it. But I don't think that's very likely either...
  17. Arne posted a post in a topic in Interior
    I'm not sure about Les' re-covering job, but others I've seen (both MSA and Too Intense) lack the chrome trim strip that the originals have. That seems to be the telling point between NOS and re-covered panels.
  18. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    The spacers are similar to the 5 lug adapters, but don't change the bolt pattern or number of lugs. They are designed to allow the use of commonly available 4-4.5 FWD wheels (a la Honda) on older RWD cars.
  19. Does Tod have coil-overs? Seems to me you'd almost have to have them to fit 17x9s under the stock fenders.
  20. If you know there is rust repair in your future anyway, I'd wait and apply the settlement towards the whole shebang.
  21. Ask for a "caliper hardware kit" for the original Toyota application. I'm sure that Raybestos and others offer them.
  22. Arne posted a post in a topic in Interior
    The parts mentioned here (AM radios, D hubcaps, pristine door panels, etc.) along with the other obvious parts like un-cracked dashes, good tail lights and the like are a large part of why I decided it was cheaper to buy an entire low-miles car than to restore my yellow car.
  23. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Fuel line insulation. Typically seen on '73 240Zs and 260Zs with flat-top carbs. Rarely needed with round-tops, but still seen on '73s with round-top conversions. My late '71, for example:
  24. Generally best to post things like this in the Classified section under Parts Wanted.
  25. Are you talking about the Amco aftermarket add-on bar that runs all the way across the rear bumper?
Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.