Arne

Why the Opel GT rear clip? I don't get it.

Yeah, the left is the same as my original grommet.

This brings up a point that I once learned the hard way. Never drain a transmission or differential until you have verified that you can get the fill plug out. :stupid: :tapemouth

I can't see that having a rubber grommet rather than the vinyl (or whatever) of the original is a big deal, as once installed the thing is all but hidden. (Yes, this is one of Bryan's boots.)

I've been using Mobil 1 in my '96 BMW, and changing it by the service lights. That amounts to about once every 8,000 miles for our use. A bit scary, but not too bad. The 240Zs will get changed a lot more often than that though, I too will do the 3000 mile changes on it, as that's what it was designed for.

Have you talked to your transmission guy about this yet? He may have some suggestions on where to source it from.

Possibly. But there weren't all that many of them anyway. It appears to me they were only used on the Series 1 240Z with the long pigtail fusebox. Through 12/70 production, or thereabouts.

Looks pretty good to me. Here's a shot of my new boot with the original grommet.

I wonder if that's his excuse for not wanting to deal with selling it non-local? But again, if that's the case why offer it on eBay?

So he only wants it to go to a "collector" but he offered it on eBay? I agree, we're missing something here. How many Zs do you have to have before you're a "collector"?

No, I don't get it either. Is he wanting it to go to a museum?

Oooh! I like it! That way I'm only 32!!

I turned 50 in January. Which means they were still selling brand new 240Zs when I got my license at 16.

My '71 also had a spacer behind the flex-plate. About 10 mm thick, IIRC. Sounds like that might be missing.

You know where I'm at, and how to reach me, Gary. But it's going to be a bad trip if you don't make it any farther than this before it breaks...

I don't know, I'm still questioning this. Let's assume that the car in question does check out. Mileage documentation, papers, structural condition, etc. In that case we're saying that it is worth $12-13k in its present condition? If so, what does that make Randy's 26,000 mile '71 worth in nice, drivable condition? $20k maybe? Or even my red '71 with 60,000 miles and all original save for the sunroof? I figure my red '71 is a 2.5 on that scale - better than a 3, but not quite up to #2 standards yet. And there's still the sunroof in mine to draw the value down. (I've come to accept the sunroof now, but there is still the possibility that I will have the roof replaced when I paint it some day.) So maybe $15k for mine? I don't know, seems to me I'd have to get a bit lucky to get $15k for it. But maybe I still haven't come to grips with this stuff yet. Obviously more than one person thinks that car had value, or it would never have been bid up that far.

Yeah, but those guys across the Pond are asking, "Who is Sam Hill?"

Interesting thoughts, Carl. And it definitely could be what we're starting to see here. I'm just glad I found mine locally and didn't have to fight on eBay for it.

I can't decide which astonishes me more - the fact that there were 2 different people willing to bid $12k for that car, or the fact that the reserve was still higher yet!?!?There sure have been a lot of 240Zs on eBay exceeding our expectations lately. I'm almost beginning to wonder if all the hype in these magazines and collectors guides is starting to kick in. You know, all the listings that tout the 240Z as one of the future hot collectibles. Because the cars that sell for more than we think is reasonable all have one thing in common, they are all mostly stock. The modified cars - even if just mildly so - aren't bringing the big bucks. But the matching numbers cars, even ones that need help, are drawing bids far above what many of us think is reasonable. Hmm. Since I'm more interested in driving a 240Z than collecting or showing it, maybe I should finish my yellow car as a driver after all, and then sell the red car? I might be able to make a tidy sum on it, the way things are going on eBay lately.

Chuck, I gotta admit that I was very surprised at the lack of bids on yours last time. I fully expected it to go for a lot more than the bids you got. Is the link to your previous auction still good? I'd like to look at it for search engine issues. Can you post it or PM me with it?

Damn! No traffic on that road at all!! What a kick!

Since you are using them for track wheels, I assume that you're not using the center caps, Marty? Did you test fit them on the front?

Perfect. You're doing fine, Larry. That will work fine. There are actually people who say the 260Z manifolds are better flowing. I don't know whether that has been proven, but it's obviously no problem to stick with them. In fact, since you are using 3-screw carbs, it should simplify the swap, as you won't have to re-work the coolant flow to the manifolds - the 3-screw carbs should have the same water passages as the flat-tops you are removing. Everyone has their own favorite polish. Over the years I've tried several, all gave about the same results. Maybe someone who has actually polished their SUs can chime in here? Mine is still all original. I will end up replacing the braided hoses soon, as I don't trust 35 year old hoses. Won't throw them out, though. They'll be saved along with the Koito headlights and 1971-dated plug wires. I've seen the thin ones, but don't know what the application for them was. If the airbox fits using the thick ones, that's what I'd stay with.

The specs I've seen show the stock L24 cam with more lift on the intake valve than any other stock cam. But the L26 cam has longer duration and more overlap. I think the spray bar was used until '77.

No. I've deducted an arbitrary 2% for the sunroof. So it's been at 98% for most of its life.