Arne

I did post them on the Classifieds, yes. Post is gone now, as are the hubcaps.

I do have that issue. The article is a whole whopping one page long. There is a single B&W picture from the left rear quarter, probably so that you can see the '5 speed' emblem on the hatch. (The car also has rear window louvers.) The article is pretty short and to the point. It says the 5 speed makes the car more economical, but doesn't make it quieter. It also outlines the other changes for '77 . Anyway, there's really not a lot to it. If you must possess absolutely everything 280Z, go ahead and pick it up. But it's not a must-have in my opinion.

Bumpers were a little bigger and heavier, emissions (carbs and such) were different, intermittent wipers weere added, seatbelts were improved, electric fuel pump was added... In short, other than the carbs and bumpers, most everything else was an improvement. IMO a '73 with round-tops is probably the best 240Z to use as a driver.

I'm certainly aware of that claim by Bryan Little, but I've never heard from anyone who has experienced that issue. I've tried mine on three different 240Zs, all the the 4-wire tach. Worked fine on them all. I also know of several other people running the ZX dizzy on 240Zs, with both 3-wire and 4-wire tachs. All of them work. So I'd have to say that it works in more cases than not.

Yeah, different name, same part. But as was mentioned above, don't buy one until you see if the dizzy you have coming has one already. A lot of them do. Was there a picture in the auction? Give us the link and we can look at it. As for the bushings, my advice would be that if the bushings on the one you get are bad, use it as a core for a rebuilt unit.

Opening in the top looks as if it might be for EGR. So I suspect the balance tube is from a 260Z. I was going to say a '73 240Z, but since beandip didn't recognize it... Edit - Didn't type fast enough...

I may still have that issue in my archives, that's about when I stopped sponging off my Dad and got my own subscription. Since I have never thrown out a copy, if I received that issue, it'll still be in my closet. (Much to my wife's dismay.) I'll look later tonight.

The ZX dizzy requires the ZX mounting tower as well. But with that, it's about as bolt-on as it gets. But check the one you get carefully, as many of these used ZX dizzies have worn bushings and/or bad vacuum advance units by now.

Hey, I resemble that remark...

No, later than late '71, as I have a late '71 (7/71 build) and neither the dash nor the console match mine. Must be '72 or '73.

A.J., I think part of the problem here is that I've never heard anyone talk about collapsing their Z's bumper shocks here. Collapsing the bumper shocks on a 2002, or 320i? Sure. But on a Z? Haven't heard about it. So I fear there isn't much knowledge on this here.

Lorea, welcome! I'm in Springfield, and as far as Zs go I'm much more familiar with carbs, but shoot me a PM (Private Message) and I'll see if I can help.

Well, in their defense, I'm pretty certain that McGard won't sell them just one kit of that part number. Not to a wholesale customer, at the cheap wholesale price. They probably come in a master carton of 10 kits or more. And frankly, gold tuner kits for 12x1.25 are not very dang popular, especially for those places which specialize in American iron. So I can certainly understand them not being willing to order a whole case of something that they are going to sit on forever once your single order has been filled. I'd be looking to get them from a wheel specialist who'll be more likely to be able to sell the rest from the case, or just bite the bullet and order them direct from McGard.

I agree with Carl on all counts. Especially the parts about '55 MPH shake' (neither of mine do this) and that 'eBay is a crap shoot'. (I can testify to that from personal experience as well.)

Probably won't make reserve.

Yup, you'll hear lots of pros and cons to the dual Webers. FWIW, I do prefer the SUs. In my opinion, good SUs will perform as well or better than properly set up dual down-draft Webers, and probably give better economy as well. But good SUs are expensive. Most of the used ones you will find will probably need the throttle shafts rebuilt, at best. So if the Webers you already have are set up well enough that the car runs decently now, I'd leave it as is for the time being and spend your money on other things that it needs.

As a guess, I'd say the valves were stuck in the guides. As to how to remedy without disassembly... ??

A main seal is no reason for a total rebuild, assuming that one of them is really your problem. They can be replaced without doing a total tear-down. If the leak developed suddenly after the oil change I'd be looking a bit deeper for the true cause before opening my wallet. Here's a thought - have you checked the PCV valve? Is there excessive pressure inside the crankcase?

Channel locks are better than a pipe wrench, easier to control. To prevent damage to the shaft I normally push a bump-stop all the way down.

My car (obviously) sat in a garage for most of its life. I've put more miles on it in the past 9 months than it's moved in the past 10 years combined. I intend to continue to add miles, too.

I know how you feel. I bought my red 240Z last October with 59,500 on it, it's over 62,000 now. Drove it to work today, in fact.

Yeah, a pipe wrench will work. Or back when I did struts for a living, I generally used a very large pair of channel-lock pliers, about 30 inches long. Those worked great.

Mine were painted black by the PO, I plan to bead-blast them at some point in the future.

Before you mentioned the $2500 figure, I think I'd have been willing to offer $4000 for it - had it been fairly local to me. The big issue is transportation. Since it's not a runner now, transporting it and all the parts will be a chore unless you can find a local buyer. I think this might hold down any eBay action as well.

A couple of additions. 1.) Both the tabs on my 10/70 car are vertically mounted. 2.) Also -- as some one who did brake and suspension work for a living for a few years -- I agree with Carl on the wrench bit. A Craftsman or other 'normal' grade flare nut wrench may be fine on a nicely maintained fairly rust-free car, but you'll want something better for your average 35 year old rusty 240Z. FWIW...