Arne

Timing. Verify TDC on #1 compression stroke, and make sure that ignition fires then while the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. If the oil pump was removed on the engine, the distributor shaft could be way out of whack.

Here's a picture just to confirm.

Lance, does your car have any suspension mods? Gas shocks, perhaps? And do you still have the stock valance parts on it?

If you can get away with running normal (refractive lens) H4s where you are, you should probably have no problems with the MSRs. They are visually obvious as non-stock, but in function they are about the same as a refractive H4. A properly designed and engineered MSR should be able to be a small improvement over a refractive H4 of similar quality. However, in my experience, a premium refractive light (Cibie, Hella, IPF, etc.) will out-perform most MSRs. The MSRs available today were designed primarily for visual effect, not for best output. The clear lens has a distinctive and striking appearance, and that seems to be to design goal of all the MSRs I've encountered so far. So in short, if the best lighting is the goal, I'd go with Hella or Cibie H4s rather than MSRs.

http://www.datsunspirit.com/

I agree with Stephen on this one. Even if we discount the flammability issue, the residue left after the fact will likely INCREASE the resistance over time. So while the initial results may have been good, long term I'd suspect the problems will return.

The Western Bullet was made from the late '70s through the mid-80s. It was not highly polished, but came machine-finished. It included a chrome metal domed hubcap. It not all that popular in the narrow four bolt sizes, but was often seen on 1/2 ton pickups and full-size vans in 15x8.5 and 15x10 sizes. A quick search of my magazine archives didn't turn up a picture of the RWD version, but here's a shot from a 1981 ad of the FWD version on a Scirocco. It does give a good picture of the proper style center cap.

The evidence so far seems to show that for cars here in the US (and Canada), the "2400 OHC" cover was only used on manual transmission cars through sometime during 10/70 production. Some manual transmission 10/70 cars had the 2400 cover, others came with the later "Nissan OHC" cover. As near as I and others have been able to piece together, all automatics (which started in 9/70 or so) had the later cover.Like Stephen, even though it wouldn't be 'correct' for my (7/71) car, IF I were to dress up my engine compartment with a polished cover, I think the 2400 cover would be what I'd like to use. Since I have no plans to swap in an L28, it would be cool to have a valve cover that actually describes the engine.

Unfortunately, rolling the lip is no longer an option with the BRE Spook installed. But your results are still encouraging, Ron, in that your 195/65-14 should be about the same diameter as the 215/60-14s that I would like to use. The fact that they don't rub even on a lowered car is a good sign, as my car is at stock height with slightly stiffer Euro Stage 1 springs from Courtesy. The old ER70-14s were a full size taller than stock, so I'm not surprised that they rubbed a bit.

No, actually it doesn't sound right for a throwout bearing. If your clutch is properly adjusted, the throwout bearing should only make noise when the pedal is depressed. Even if the bearing is touching the pressure plate when released (and it shouldn't be) the noise should be far worse with the pedal depressed.

Are there any 240Zs here with Appliance brand 14x7 slot mags on them? Not the more common 6" wide, but 14X7s? Here's the deal - I found a full set of four Appliance Dish Mags (aka slots) in 14x7. Normally I wouldn't consider 7" wide due to the lack of tire choices. But this set of wheels is NOS. Never had tires mounted, never bolted on a car. The thought of NOS appeals to me a lot. But - my recollection from selling those wheels back in the late 70's and early '80s is that the 7" Appliances frequently had clearance issues, because (as I seem to recall) they were not zero offset, but more like -10 or so. Rather deep dish. So my concern is clearance when turning at the front valance. I figure I'll run 215/60-14 on them if I get them. That's both shorter and wider than the 195/70-14s I now have on my 14x6s. So my question is: Are there any 240Zs (approximately stock height) with these particular wheels on them? If so, what size tires are you running, and do you have any tire clearance issues?

The headliner looks OK...

Good point, Will. I hadn't thought of that.

Dave, if you are using Windows, look for an HP Laserjet 1018. They are being phased out now, but if you can find one they are a very affordable B&W laser with nice crisp printing. We buy them at work for our remote staff. Small desk footprint, too, about the size of an inkjet.

My two comments are not necessarily aimed at problem areas to look for, as there are lots of places to find that. No, my comments are aimed at the buyer. The very first thing you should do is honestly ask yourself what your ultimate vision is for your future Z. Because that can have a big impact on what cars you look at and eventually buy. Is your dream Z a restored showroom original 240Z? A mildly modified Z to drive daily? A radical hot rod? Something else? A Z can be any of those things, but some cars you look at may be suitable for some of those goals, but not for others. And how flexible are you willing to be if you find a really nice car that might not be exactly what you are dreaming of? I ask this because I know, it happened to me. I was planning a mildly modified 240Z with period-correct looks. Then I found a nearly original, low-miles 240Z. I've had to change my goal a bit, as I can't quite bring myself to do things to it that aren't easily reversible. So my end result will not be nearly as modified as I had first thought. Last is the biggie. I'm going to emphasize this, because even though I know this, I often ignore it and it comes back to bite me again and again. So here goes - Hold out for the very best car you can find and afford! You won't regret buying a really nice one, and the money spent up front will be well spent. It can easily cost 2 to 3 times as much to make an average car as nice as a nice would have cost up front.

Or, if you're not handy, you could try these that are shown on Les' Classic Datsun Motorsports site. I don't know how much they cost, but would be interested in knowing. They look good to me. http://classicdatsun.com/new/240_misc-parts.html

Courtesy Nissan just shows '70-76 as silver, and '77-78 as black. But the actual change may not be that cut and dried. http://www.courtesyparts.com/s30_wipers.html

I AM sure that the 240Z, 260Z and early 280Z arms and blades were matte silver, and the later 280Z arms and blades were black. I am NOT certain when the change occurred.

They were matte silver through '76, black in '77 and '78. I think there was a DOT regulation that forced that change, but could be wrong.

I've had good luck repairing the original clocks. Just sold one for a 240Z that I repaired over a year ago, still ticking as it left.

So they covered the ammeter option, but not the speedo? Go figure...

No. They were a totally different beast.

Here's an interesting thought - if this is the only kit they sell, it's not right for the very latest 240Zs either, as at least some of the '73s came with an ammeter that read from -60 to +60, not -45 to +45.

I guess I don't understand why you went to the timing for this? If the car was running fine prior to changing the carbs, and no other changes occurred at the same time, there is no reason to change the timing. You should be working with the carbs, as they are the parts that changed. Or is there more to the story that we haven't yet heard?

Chris, please post pictures when you get them installed...