Arne

Aha!! So the reason that none of us with earlier cars had the vaunted carpet clips was that Datsun didn't supply them until much later! Considering the history of my car, I thought it odd that all four of mine should be MIA.

Just to clarify here -- we ARE all talking about the pair of rectangular notches in the rear-most edge of the carpet where the luggage straps attach, are we not?

I don't know about the less area thing, my lawn area is so small that I don't even own a power mower any more, just an old fashioned push mower. Takes me less than 20 minutes. Beer does stay colder for you, though...

Sunny and 66º F yesterday. I washed the red Z, and pulled the E31 head off the yellow Z so I can take it to a swap meet in a couple weeks. Mowed the lawn, too...

Pictures load fine for me. While I will admit that neither the faux-fiber nor the gauge faces are to my taste, it certainly looks like you did a decent job. Nice fit on the dash cover. Hey! That's a Series 1 steering wheel on a 260Z! That's a different look.

I'll try to remember to do in a few days. Remind me if I forget, Mike. But also remember that my red car is a late Series 2, and so mine won't look like the carpet on #237. Very true. You'd think that one of these shops would demand the right stuff. But we apparently haven't seen it yet. Good question. I'm not particularly after concours, but I DO want as close as I can get to original. Yup. He recommended I talk to Datsun SPirit, IIRC. I'm game...Haven't tried Charlie.

No, it sounds to me as if your number 6 plug is fouling badly. When you pull the plug wire while the engine is running, you make the spark jump from the wire to the plug, which in effect makes the spark hotter. Running with the plug wire partway off is an old shade-tree mechanic trick to reduce plug fouling from way back. So I think your problem is either carburation (way rich on the rear carb), or more likely (since it is only the number 6 plug that fouls) collapsed or sticky oil rings in number 6.

Well, the carpet in my car is still original. Very faded and worn, but original. So when Danny mentioned above about the thinness of the TIR carpet I had to laugh. Because trust me, the original was not what I would call high quality in any way. I would also describe the original as, um, ok...I guess. I will admit that I'm not thrilled about the idea of the backing being glued on. I may have to try the kit from Datsun Spirit just to see what the differences are.

Fibber! It's only been a touch less than 10 months... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=217037&postcount=12

Carl, some clarification please on your figures for stock height of a 240Z. Earlier in this thread, you state: However, in the old thread Tokico HP - Z is 2 inches taller you state: My personal experience with my low-miles red '71 supported the second number. With factory stock springs and non-gas shocks, it sat right at 7 7/8" to 8" at the jack points. Now I see this 8 1/2" number and I wonder where that came from, or why the change?

Stephen, I know that your car is considerably earlier that either of mine, but both of my cars have separate holes and grommets for those two cables. The speedo cable comes through a hole directly below the clutch master cylinder, while the hood release cable has a separate hole to the left and higher on the firewall.

Yup. Zero only applies for wheels that are wider than stock. Measure the backspace of your stock steel wheel. For a 4.5" wheel ('70-72) the backspace will be in the neighborhood of 3.25-3.35". For a 5" ('73-78) it will be around 3.625". Those are not zero offset.

Thanks, guys. Yes, those all jive with my memory.

Agreed. The factory thermostat is a much nicer part than any aftermarket one. I won't use anything other than factory for that.

My goodness, what a URL! Converted to a small link below, and sucked the picture down to save for posterity. Long link to the webpage

Does anyone have a dealer list for 1971? I'm interested in the names and addresses of the Oregon dealers.

No, we're talking the factory steel wheels here. Wider mag wheels are a totally different kettle of fish.

Definitely +15 on the factory steel wheels. There's more backspace than 'frontspace'.

Bryan, I have a front Spook on my car that I got from CDM a few months ago. I don't have a rear spoiler of any kind. The front alone made a huge difference in stability at speeds of 60 and higher, or even lower speeds if the cross-winds are bad. The build quality of the spook from CDM is absolutely first-rate. See pictures part way down this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27937

Carl mentioned the rear BRE spoiler as a potential cure. I can't speak to whether that works or not, since I don't have one. But now that you mention it, I installed my front BRE spook about the same time as I extended the tailpipe. Since the spook keeps air from going under the car, I suspect that it may have an effect on the aerodynamics at the rear as well, and could have been part of what fixed mine.

Properly setting up a ring and pinion is fussy work, and takes specialized skills and knowledge. If you lack those skills, paying someone to do that for you will easily cost more than the R200 swap.

Two separate issues. Fumes with the windows up seem to be mostly seals and such. But fumes ONLY when a window is down is aerodynamics and where the exhaust dumps. I got fumes with the window down until I extended the tip slightly. Mine is now maybe a 1/2" past the bumper bar, but well shorter than the bumper guards. Seems to have cured my window-down problem. But angle of the tip may have an affect as well. My tip is angled down a few degrees as well. My last thought is that this problem -- like other Z problems -- may have more than one cure, depending on the car. No single 'fix' seems to work for all cars.

E, e-mail it to me and I'll convert it to a pdf.

Bearing dust cover