Arne

Carl, the BD harness is generic, not custom fit for Zs. They offer the same harness in their RX7 and other catalogs as fitting those cars. (See attachment.) From what I've been told, the connectors are in fact designed to plug into the headlight connector. I've also heard numerous other complaints with it when attempting to use it in a Z.

If you have a '71 (or a '70), using a '72 or later 4 speed requires the same type of shift lever changes as installing a 5 speed in an early 240Z requires. The only ones that fit with no monkeying around (tunnel and console mods, or custom shift lever) are the early Type A transmissions. Or so I have been told. I do have a known good Type A, but it is tentatively spoken for. Just have to figure out how to ship it cross-country.

What year? There are two different types of 4 speeds for 240Zs.

Ummm, isn't that what I said? :stupid:

All true. At least with my DSLR I again have the option to pre-focus. Can't do that with your average digi-cam.But I don't get your battery comment. My 35mm SLRs all had batteries, and they were always dead at an inconvenient time. Battery life on my D40 is outstanding, and the start-up delay is non-existent.

That's the breather hose. I can't say for certain about the 280Zs as I've never owned one, but the factory breather hose for a 240Z also has the brush inside. I assume it's there to keep oil sludge out of the intake.

Here's a tip I got from a professional photographer - never just delete the photos off the card using your computer or camera in playback mode. Always FORMAT the card in the camera instead. Cleans up the directories and such. Letting Windows or iPhoto do it after download is convenient, but eventually you WILL have data corruption.

Maybe. I recently sold my 7 MP Sony point-n-shoot and bought one of those entry-level Nikon DSLRs. (Only 6 MP, BTW.) I did it strictly for action shots. A good point-n-shoot is fine for pictures of things that are still, or moving slowly. But for things that move, a DSLR is MUCH better. Instant on, instant manual zoom control, and lightning auto-focus. I'm much happier with my DSLR, and get candid shots with it that I could never count on getting with my Sony.But in general, I agree. It's not the camera, or the megapixels or whatever that makes a good picture. It's the subject and composition. If you're taking pictures of cars at a show, any camera will do as long as you know what you are doing.

Very true. When I sold suspension upgrades I was told that by the Energy Suspension factory rep. I would only consider black for my own car.

That's why I said they look similar, they could be very different in both size and detail. Best guess at this point.

Well, sort of. The early long-pigtail fuseboxes for the Series 1 cars did not use a screw connection for the white/red wire, but used male and female blade terminals instead. Apparently Nissan felt these were not as reliable for critical circuits, and starting with the 1/71 production they moved to the short pigtail fusebox with the screw connection instead. So I guess you could call it an 'afterthought' on Nissan's part. I choose to think of it as an improvement.

Those appear to be Tru-Spokes. Tru-Spoke ended up as part of the Cragar family, but Cragar no longer builds wire wheels. Cragar's accessory page does show a similar cap, but I don't know if it is really the same, or even if it will fit your wheels. http://www.cragarwheel.com/catalogs_accessories.html

I agree, Austen, they did. What color and brand paint did you use?

That's the main power lead to from the battery to the fusebox. Gotta have it. Doesn't the MSA box have a place to attach it?

"Graphics? We don' need no stinking graphics!" I love the BRE-look for a track 240Z. And even for a street-driven 510 the BRE-look and bubble flares is too cool. But for a street 240Z, I personally prefer them pretty much sans graphics. Maybe a set of side period correct side stripes, that's all. But that's just me. I like the clean and classic look as originally designed. Doesn't mean I think that other opinions are wrong, they're just not mine.

Thanks, Ron. I am SO glad I had it done as the entire panel. Seeing the pictures after seeing the end result and hearing the plan has firmed it all up. Done this way, it should be just as good as when it was new. I'm very pleased with the results.

I suppose that makes sense, Jeff. There's a heck of a lot more Zs left here out West than there are in Michigan. I wonder what they'd do if you went in with the part number (from the club CD) in hand?

Courtesy is great, and is a sponsor of this site as well. I've bought from them too. But don't write off your local Nissan dealer until you've given them a try. Mine sells me parts at about the same price as Courtesy, but with no shipping cost. Of course, here in Oregon I've got no sales tax to confuse the issue.

Check the prices on Nissan bushings before you go all out on a search for alternatives. I haven't done the front yet, but the prices for Nissan parts for the rear wasn't all that bad, especially after the club discount my dealer gives. The rear inner were about $9 each, the rear outer $7 each. Buy or rent a spindle pin tool!! Makes the pin pulling a much less ugly job, even if yours are rusted. But the rear outer bushings are still a major PITA even once the pins have been pulled. Very difficult to get the old ones out. And in my experience, the rear outers have always been the least worn of all the bushings on the car. So I'd look those over very closely before you decide to tackle them. Mine had no slop or play at all, even after 36 years. I decided to replace them anyway, just because. But in hindsight, I'm not certain I would if I knew then what I know now.

Performance increase (if any) from not having the converter will be small. So unless the converter is bad in someway, I'd keep it on the car. Better for all of our air, too.

I figure painting will start sometime next week. I'm hoping to have it back by the end of the month. Canby is June 14-15, it's going to be a busy couple of weekends... Yup, the headlight buckets and the Spook will both be painted separately, but with the same batch of paint (of course). I too like my wheels, if only they weren't so badly pitted. Once the body and interior are done, I'll have to start watching for a better set.

Yes, Dave's products work on early 240Zs. My car is fully equipped with them. (Except the LED lighting.)

Me too. I'm happy to pay for this kind of work.

... and the work in progress.

More pictures. The donor...