Arne

It finally occurred to me today what my true answer to this poll is. The kind of shows that I really enjoy are the ones that involve driving my Z. Driving to and from the show, and even better if driving is part of the activity. Which really means I prefer club cruises, group picnics, and such-like over park-your-car-and-sit shows. I can only look at cars for so long, then I want to drive....

The factory emblem is plastic all the way through. Good idea, though. I'd considered trying to find something to clear-coat mine to hide the crack.

I probably would if the garage were tall enough. Then again, our climate is mild enough that I can (and do) drive my car regularly throughout the winter. So storage would not be my goal.

Actually, I do know of a guy who is custom fabbing a supercharger setup for the L-series engines, with an eye towards marketing a kit when he's done. He's not ready to share details yet, so that's all I'll say right now.

As far as I could find after a bit of searching, no replacements are available. The emblem discs from the current production knobs are visually different (different font, mostly), but even those are not available separately. I decided to live with a single small crack in mine, rather than go with the larger current knob with the incorrect type-face. It may not be perfect, but it is original and correct.

The 'tool' shown in the 1971 FSM is similar to what Stephen does. I didn't have to go to that extreme, mine came loose with the weight of the car on the ground, my son with his foot on the brakes, and me using a home-made 4 foot breaker bar (18" bar with a floor jack handle slipped on the end).

Side note - do you still have the car, Asta? Did you decide not to sell it?

You might be surprised either way. My car is truly at 66,000 miles, the odometer hasn't turned over. As Stephen mentioned, I have some documentation from prior owners to back that up. Not as complete as I'd like, perhaps, but better than most. On the other hand, the drivetrain of these cars is very durable. There are more of these cars than you might think with over 200,000 or even 300,000 miles on them, especially here out West.

Left is the original. Details on that discussion are in the thread linked below, starting mostly with post #42.http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22039

If it's a factory knob, be careful in re-threading it. There is no metal in the original wood knobs. The base is plated plastic.

Dan, the inspection cover screws were painted body color on mine. As best my painter and I can determine, it was original paint until I had it painted a couple months ago. Build date 7/71, 905 red.

My fear would be that if someone bumped it, yes, the glass would crack and be ruined. But with a little luck it would not transfer any of the impact into the body shell, especially around the side where the bumper bolts to the quarter panel. Bump a steel bumper very hard and the bump all goes into the body.

For impact protection? Hope not, because there isn't any. In fact, if you were to take a light bump with both metal and glass, I'd bet that there'd be less damage to the bodyshell with the glass.The stock 240Z bumpers are worthless as bumpers. The glass will be every bit as good.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95343

Makes my backyard wildlife seem pretty tame.

I agree with John. If you are limited to 7.5-8.0" width, stick with 225s. I have 225/45-17s on 8.0" (on the BMW, not the Z) and the fit is near perfect. You'd definitely want 8.5 or more for best results with 245s.

I think the floor pan is in there, guys. They just left it unfinished, so it looks like there's open air in there.

So that's the fuse that has the red/blue wire on the output side? If so, it supplies the key buzzer, map light, glove box light, dome light and step lights (if you had them) on it's way to the combo switch. I'd start by systematically disconnecting those items and their switches (if separate) one by one. The amount of current being drawn (50 amps!) makes me think there's a dead short somewhere in that circuit. My first step would be to disconnect the combo switch.

I think the replacement floor pan that is mentioned in the repairs was just a plain piece of sheet metal welded in, rather than a proper pressed replacement pan. Not as 'correct' as we might like, but beats the heck out of a rusty hole!And yeah, those prices are outrageous! There would be a shop to avoid...

That's the thread that I remembered, and found easily by searching for license plates.

That varies from state to state. Where do you live?

Are you planning to have the rear bumper painted to match? If so (and I think that'd look great on that car) might be cleaner to just buy a one-piece fiberglass replacement from MSA. Easy to paint, no chrome to strip, and no seams or bolts holding the ends on. Lighter, too.http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA01/50-1751

1.) Yes, the '72-74 240/260Z driveshaft is fine with a 5 speed. 2.) If the driveline shop says they can do it, they're probably right. Worth taking it in and having them look at it in person, definitely. 3.) Yes, this site does RULE!

Just make sure that you don't get a driveshaft from a '70 or '71, as they are about an inch shorter than all other US market S30s.

I picked up a Harada fully automatic unit locally for $33. Mounted exactly the same as the OE Harada, but can be activated by the antenna lead on aftermarket head units.