Arne

No, numbers 6 & 7 in the BD catalog are the rear bumper trim caps, for which I've never seen a good explanation as to which cars had them or didn't. Part numbers 62692-E4101 and 62693-E4101 (left and right), were still available from the dealer a few months ago. See my first picture attached.The rubber bumper shims are shown in the second picture from MSA. The right shim is the rear one, it is like an envelope which slides over the bracket on the bumper.

Must be so, I don't have my issue yet, either. :disappoin

True, I often forget to factor in the shipping hassles for those of you up North. Definitely not worth the headaches when you can duplicate it locally.

Stephen, I have a spare Type A. I ran it in my car for a few hundred miles while I rebuilt the original, so it's a known good unit. I had figured on keeping it as spare parts, but might consider selling it if the right offer was made. Don't know what it would cost to ship it, though.

If your car is a manual transmission, you can get them new from MSA, as shown in the attached screenshot from the CD version of their catalog. And since MSA has them new, I'm fairly certain that they must be available other places as well.

I agree with Stephen, if all you're after is a "wider look", I'd have a hard time justifying a different set of rims, considering the relative rarity and "correct-ness" of the rims you have now.

Yes, Arne had a brain lapse. My bad. The wheels Stephen shows are 5.5" wide. As such they are "technically" too narrow for a 225 wide tire. But as Stephen shows, they will fit, although some of the potential handling benefit may not be evident.Some background - A "60 series" is not necessarily wider than a "70 series" tire. The "series" is more properly called the "aspect ratio" which is one part of what determines the tire's height and width. For example - your current 195/70-14 size means this: the approximate overall width (not tread width but at the widest part of the sidewall bulge) is 195 mm. The sidewall height is 70% of the overall width. The tire fits on a 14 inch rim. So a 195/60-14 tire - for example - will NOT be wider than what you now have, but will be a bunch shorter. To determine a tire's true size, you need to consider both the width AND the aspect ratio. Back to the 5.5" wide wheels - a better size for that size rim would be 215/60-14, but if you do the math you'll see that size is shorter than stock.

Edit - Bad info. Post deleted.

Les' paint is not normal rattle can paint. It is custom mixed auto paint loaded into aerosol cans. Not Krylon or similar. I've done this in the past myself, having a local paint shop load Dupont Centari into rattle cans. I can't remember what brand paint Les told me he has mixed up before he loads it into the spray cans, but it was a familiar name and may have even been PPG. Les' paint on my car's tail trim panels is almost two years old now, with no signs of any fading or degradation.

We need more data. How wide are your rims? Is your car lowered?

They were used on several S30 models in the rest of the world, only through the end of the '71 model year. Or so I understand.

No, that thread appears to be about the later Type B transmissions, which are totally different than the Type A 'boxes.

In addition to what Carl noted, wider steel wheels were theoretically available from the dealers' parts department but never came factory installed. The wider wheels were 5.5" wide, and were part number 40300-E4600, list price of $13.50 each in 1971. They would have looked identical to the normal 4.5" rims, and all of the same markings (as described by Carl) would be stamped. I don't know of anyone who has seen a set of these early 5.5" in person, however.

Anyone have any tips on identifying a FS5C71-A early five speed from pictures? I've got a possible lead on one, but the seller doesn't know for certain what it is. From the description so far, it is definitely a Type A (w/monkey-motion linkage). But past that... If I can get pictures, what do I need to look for to know for certain what it is?

Rob, I'll make the trip to come and help if I can bring home the R-RT as payment! My old K75 is getting a bit long in the tooth.

Yeah, Terry, yours looks bent up. This is the best I can do right now for pictures. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24708&d=1219377244

Sounds right to me as well. 37705 is late 7/71, and 27602 was 4/71. So for 30,871 I'd guess May as well, perhaps early June at the very latest.

No. The 'D' caps were used all the way through the '71 model year production. Cars with the early console and twist-latch fuel door should all have come with 'D' caps. Even my car (7000 cars later than this one) came with 'D' caps. Looks like you caught most of it, Mike. It also has an Amco front bumper bar, small mud flaps, the wrong shift boot, and appears to have the later production larger shift knob. But from the pictures, it appears to be an outstanding example, and the deviations from stock are not all that important for a weekend driver. It appears to be very similar to my own car, even down to the high quality paint job. Coincidentally, that car shows 66,053 in the auction, mine shows 66,020 after I got home from work with it tonight. Strictly for appearance sake, I'd have to agree, the later hubcaps ARE better looking.

Yup, everything you describe is correct for a '72-73 console. The '70-71 is completely different (as you've discovered).

Must be Really Late to be for any '71, as my 7/71 has the one that most refer to as the "Series 1" console. I didn't think the console actually changed until the true '72s were introduced.

I use an old MG knockoff hammer with a lead head. Softer than the aluminum case so no damage occurs. Works great.

Definitely not a '70-71 console. I'm betting there is an ashtray behind the shift boot?

Don't twist. Most transmission cases have pilot dowels to locate the parts precisely. I've not had a 5 speed apart, only the early Type A 4 speeds. But in general, yes, you have to rap on it a few times to drive it off of the pilot dowels, which are a very snug fit.

My OE AM radio is out of the car now. (I have my old Pioneer Supertuner in it instead. AM radio sucks in my parts.) While I can't say for certain that the AM/FM has it as well, the AM radio does have an antenna trim screw, as does my Pioneer, and most every other AM receiver I can recall. On the AM radio, the trim screw is on the bottom, near the antenna lead. The AM trim instructions for older radios that I recall were all pretty simple. Tune into a station (as weak as you can get a steady signal). and turn the trim screw back and forth for best signal. C'est tout.

No, not factory from Nissan. If there was such a beast, it would have to be a custom or aftermarket job.