Arne

Not my cup of tea, but looks like a killer example, if you're into them. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/976913529.html Ad text:

Means nothing. Just because they offer all those brands doesn't mean they include them in the kits they bundle.

Try your local Nissan dealer. Part #11037-E3000 - NET, STEEL CRANK CASE, list price appears to be $8.55.

If they don't have an exchange program, it'd be pretty simple to pick up a used E88 or whatever head to send them, while you continue to drive your car. Lot's of used heads on craigslist, at least there are here out West.

I believe the mount does need to be reversed, but since I've never done this mod, you should wait for confirmation from someone who has. The part you pointed at is the remains of the factory exhaust hanger.

IMO, not a large premium, no. There are people out there who want them (such as your friend), but not enough of them to drive the price on the RHD cars significantly higher than a US 240Z.

It's not lifted enough to lift it off the seal, so no exhaust gases. It's pretty much just an appearance issue.

Don't know, Dan. Mine s the original Nissan strut from 1971.

I'd be thrilled if that worked. My hatch sits nice and even with the support strut removed. But the tension from the gas pressure pushes the left edge up when the strut is in place. I've tried to adjust this both with and without the strut with no success so far.

That ain't right, Steve. First, the little rubber envelopes that slip over the end mounting tabs are quite thin. They don't space it out a significant amount. Your pictures remind me of the bumper off my blue parts car that had been bumped gently in the center. The overall arc of the bumper was flattened out and the ends looked just like your pictures. I took a couple of shots of mine, trying to get close to the same angles as your pictures. (Not exactly the same, my sidemarkers hide the bumper ends if I match your camera angles exactly.) I also took a picture of the center to show how the bumper arc there exactly matches the front of the hood. That would be the first thing I would look at on yours.

All three of my 240Zs showed this. I have the original support strut on the red car now, still the same. I haven't found a way to adjust this out yet. Seems to be a 240Z calling card.

Go to your local Nissan Parts department, and ask them to order you a pair of part number B6370-E4100.

Yes, 195/70s should fit the ZX wheels and your car just fine. But a 195/70 should the same height as a 225/60. Are you certain that's the size you have on the wheels now?

First, no, there was not a matching right side mirror. Yes, you can mount a left mirror on the right side, but the angle of the stalk is then quite different. The left mirror is not symmetrical that way.

What fun! Now I'd like to see video of Carl's BRE car like that. Sliding sideways and slinging gravel, AWESOME!

No.http://www2.pictures.gi.zimbio.com/Children+Defense+Fund+17th+Annual+Beat+Odds+yu5CZ1Na69Yl.jpg

Unlike the later cars with 17 digit VIN, the earlier VINs don't contain much info on the car. An 'H' is for the L24 (240Zs) or L28 (280Zs) motor, or an 'R' for the L26 in a 260Z. The 'L' is for Left hand drive, and 'S30' is the chassis type. (S30 is the Z body up through '78 models.) A 'G' at the beginning indicates a 2+2. The rest is just a sequential serial number.

I doubt it. I never have...

Possibly, but finding a pre-assembled kit where ALL of the contents are identified and are known brands of high quality might be tough. I personally wouldn't bother to try. Try calling up one of these suppliers and ask them who is the manufacturer of the main bearings in their kit. Or maybe who makes the valve seals. See if they can even give you an answer. Far simpler to just buy the parts individually, that way I KNOW what I have in there.

The problem with pre-assembled kits is that you don't know the quality of the parts that the seller has gathered. Who made the rings? What material, chrome, moly, or cast iron? Are the bearings top quality? Are the timing gears hardened and top quality? These are the kinds of questions you can't answer with a kit. When rebuilding an engine, I always select and purchase my parts individually. That way I know I'm getting what I want/need.

I'm only aware of three places in the rear that it could leak, Stephen. One is the output seal, one is the shift selector shaft o-ring, and the last is the speedo cable drive o-rings. You've already done the rear seal, and generally the speedo drive is pretty obvious, so the selector shaft is probably it. Sorry...

IMO, yes. Assuming it was a true rebuild with a valve job. In fact, on a rebuild I might do my first check at 500 miles, and then again at 1000.

Yeah, IF I were in the market for a low-VIN car, I'd send him a message that said I won't bid until I've seen more of the car, know the VIN, and see the VIN stamp on the firewall. Without that, no bid.

It's easier for the server to compose and send a page if all the page elements are loaded from the server's disk and database, as opposed to having to send the page directly and then refer an image to a remote server. The CZCC server currently has more than 50 GB available for forum storage. No issues there.

That's what I thought. That's not the correct way to measure a rim. Yours are 14x6s. The measuring point for both width and diameter is inside the lip where the base of the tire's bead seats. But as a rough guide you can measure as you did from the lips and then subtract 1" from each dimension.