Arne

Are you talking about the outer grills, or the actual vent stuff inside the hatch?

As I understand it, the E12-80 is the trigger mechanism, it really has little or nothing to do with how hot the spark is, other than perhaps the duration and things like that. The coil (and whether you are using the ballast resistor) is the part that determines the "hotness" of the spark. I'd guess that a Blaster 2 should be plenty hot enough for most any streetable L-series. Just make sure you are making the most of that spark - use top notch wires, cap and rotor, and wide gap plugs. I'm running NGK BPR6EY-11 with the black Pertronix Flame Thrower coil in my L24. Works well.

Here's a few links to photos of some of this year's bigger events. If you show up at any of these events you're likely to run into a number of us here. Canby Driving Fun - Normally in early June Datsuns at Blue Lake Park - mid-August Mary's Peak Fun Run & BBQ - early Oct?

Joshua, there are several organized clubs serving the PDX region. Northwest Z is one, or there are a couple that cater to any older Datsun. There are also occasionally impromptu gatherings of non-affiliated Z owners, too.

It needs to be dealt with, yes. I think you'll find that it is much worse under the window rubber.

DOT 5 is not all that it is cracked up to be. Absorbing moisture (as DOT 3/4 does) is a good thing. With DOT 5, if any moisture does get into the system it simply migrates to the lowest points in the system (calipers and wheel cylinders) and sits until it gets flushed out. Generally, it causes rust and corrosion there before that happens. DOT 3/4 holds the moisture in suspension instead. I have used DOT 5 in special cases - notably on off-road bikes and ATVs where I'd change it very frequently. But I won't use it in a street car.

I still have it cached. Should have done this the first time.

I don't even know where to start on this one. Really, $68k??? :stupid: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/987750868.html

Do some checking first to see if there are any mods you'd need to do to it to get it licensed and insured there. It may be subject to TUV inspection, which (I understand) are very comprehensive.

Doesn't do it for me either. But I'd love to pull parts from that 240Z...

Poly bumpstops are a no-brainer and great. If you do no other poly, the bumpstops are the ones to do -- there are no downsides to the bumpstops, no ride concerns, no noises. No reason not to use them. Other than the bumpstops, all the rest of my suspension is rubber. I've always used OE Nissan bushings, and they work fine for normal street driving. Like Dave mentioned, if you are selective in where you use poly, the ride harshness increase (and there will be some) isn't too bad. As for color - unless you just have to have something flashy, go with Energy Suspension black, not red. The black are graphite impregnated, and are MUCH less prone to squeaks and noises.

I think what Dave (Zs-ondabrain) meant was that your fuel pump might not be supplying enough fuel to feed the engine at higher RPM.

I know Brian personally, and have dealt with locally him in the past (before he opened ZCCJDM) on a couple of little things. A good guy, in my opinion, and will tell it to you like it is. He's a member here, screen name is azcarbum, and he has a nicely modded 280Z pictured below. Call him if you have questions.

The wheels are either Cromodoras, ATS or something similar. Rare and unusual, in any case.

Wrong side of the block. Look near the #5 spark plug.

Those are casting numbers, and both of those were used on both L24 and L26 engines. To verify what you have now, you need to look at the block serial number, not the casting number. It will be on the spark plug side of the motor, on a pair of raised bosses at the top edge of the block, near #5 plug. The rear boss will have the engine type stamped in (L24, L26 or L28), the front boss will have the sequential serial number.

That's what I recalled for those older Appliance wheels. Both the Wire Mag (like yours) and the Dish Mag (slots) in 14x7 came with a relatively deep negative offset. (Not surprising, they were originally designed to fit 4-lug Mustangs and such, not import cars.) We ran into occasional rubbing issues with those on the front of 240Zs back in the day. Weren't no modern low profile tires back then to compensate.

Without the matching numbers motor, the value of that car (when finished) is far less than he might be thinking. Non-matching motor is a big minus on final value, it seems to me.

Stephen, measure the overall width at the outer lips. (This is typically about one inch larger than the true rim width at the bead seats.) Divide this number in half and save it. Then set the wheel face down on the floor. Place a straightedge across the back of the wheel. Measure from the straightedge to the mounting flange surface, where the wheel sits against the drum. (This measurement is also known as 'backside'.) Subtract the first saved measurement from the face-down number. The result is the offset. If the numbers are equal, that's zero offset. If your end result is a negative number (your backside is smaller than half the width), that is negative offset, which gives deeper dish. If the backside is larger than half the width, it's positive offset, which tucks the wheel inside the fender farther. In the case of the 14x7 Appliance Wire Mags you have for sale, Here's what I expect you will find (approximately): Overall width === 8.00" Half of overall = 4.00" Backside ======== 3.62" Offset ========= -0.38" That'll be the same as a -10mm or -3/8" offset. Similar to a 14" Konig Rewind. Of course, I could be wrong since I'm going from 15-20 year old memory here, and I'm very interested is hearing your measured results on these wheels.

255s will fit your rims (although they'll be a bit wider than optimal, but I think you'll be pushing it as far as clearance goes.

The matching height wider size to go with your 205/70s is 235/60-14.

Assuming you want to keep the existing size on the front, and also assuming you are running the stock 195/70 there, you should go with the 225/60-14 on the rear. Any other size mentioned above will be shorter in height than what you have on the front which will make the car sit nose-high. Since 280Zs stock suspension sits taller than a 240Z, you should have no problems running the 255/60s on the rear.

Stock steel 280Z rims are 5.0" wide. Those are definitely too narrow for a 225, and realistically too narrow for the 215s too. You might be able to squeeze 215s on them, but pinched on a narrow wheel like that they will not give any handling benefit, and might even drive worse than the stock 195s.

Find yourself a different tire shop - one that knows what they are talking about. The 240Z chassis (all S30s and S130s, actually) do not use hub-centering rims. Not even the factory rims hub-center. In fact, the hubs lack the raised centering boss that a hub-centering rim would seat upon. So for your car, the hub-centering explanation is garbage. Your shimmy is caused by something else.The most likely causes are multi-fit rims (as Stephen mentioned above), poorly balanced rim/tire assembly, or an out-of-round issue of either a tire or rim. A 240Z is very sensitive to shimmy from these causes, it takes very little to cause a slight shimmy.

The lettering on the ZX logo probably does not exist as a complete "font' as such. It was designed by Nissan for the car, is proprietary, and is undoubtedly trademarked and not available to the general public.